13-14 psi on stock ECU: Recommendations
#1
Rotary Optimist
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13-14 psi on stock ECU: Recommendations
I'm boosting around 12-9-12 with spikes at 13+ with only an intake and dp. I have experienced NO fuel cut or other ill effects... yet. The car seems to run real strong.
Are these normal boost levels with just intake and dp?
Is there an inexpensive way to safely live with these boost levels without getting an aftermarket ECU (spending tons of $)???
Are these normal boost levels with just intake and dp?
Is there an inexpensive way to safely live with these boost levels without getting an aftermarket ECU (spending tons of $)???
#2
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Based on the title I was about to recommend Malloy Mazda for when the engine blew up, but....
I'm pretty sure that's pushing things. A friend ("Aristo" on the forum) runs the M2 ECU upgrade (IIRC) and is worried about boosting 14. I'd try to dial the spikes out a bit more -- keep things under 12-13. There should be procedures on tuning the spikes out all over the place -- just search for 'em!
-Manolis
I'm pretty sure that's pushing things. A friend ("Aristo" on the forum) runs the M2 ECU upgrade (IIRC) and is worried about boosting 14. I'd try to dial the spikes out a bit more -- keep things under 12-13. There should be procedures on tuning the spikes out all over the place -- just search for 'em!
-Manolis
#3
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I see 3 low budget options:
a)You can play around with a "home depot" boost controller. Very inexpensive but will require quite a bit of trial-and-error and will be temp sensitive.
b)Install an electronic boost controller. A Greddy Profec B is $320 at the rx7store. These work very well and will control your boost safely. You can also find them used sometimes for quite a bit less.
c)Install a Pettit or M2 ecu. You can pick a used one up for $400-$450 or so.
a)You can play around with a "home depot" boost controller. Very inexpensive but will require quite a bit of trial-and-error and will be temp sensitive.
b)Install an electronic boost controller. A Greddy Profec B is $320 at the rx7store. These work very well and will control your boost safely. You can also find them used sometimes for quite a bit less.
c)Install a Pettit or M2 ecu. You can pick a used one up for $400-$450 or so.
#4
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Thanks for the info so far guys.
The manual (Home Depot) boost controller was definitely my first option as it is the least expensive. Although, it seems a little ghetto and temporary.
An electronic boost controller would be better, but the cost and predicted install time seem better spent on a solution that allows me to safely make use of the boost.
So, focusing on an ECU solution... and keeping the budget in mind:
Would the mentioned Pettit or M2 (or ?) ECUs be plug-n-play?
Would either require tuning?
The manual (Home Depot) boost controller was definitely my first option as it is the least expensive. Although, it seems a little ghetto and temporary.
An electronic boost controller would be better, but the cost and predicted install time seem better spent on a solution that allows me to safely make use of the boost.
So, focusing on an ECU solution... and keeping the budget in mind:
Would the mentioned Pettit or M2 (or ?) ECUs be plug-n-play?
Would either require tuning?
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Those ECUs are plug and pray...you just need to look for one that has been tuned from pettit or whoever for the mods you have (or close to it)....You can mess around with the Team Home Depot boost controler but I am about sick of mine right now cuz of all the trial and error crap...My next mod is definately going to be the Blitz Sbc-Id boost controler...Good luck...
#6
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Originally posted by apneablue
...plug and pray...
...plug and pray...
Anyway, if you want to make best use of the power, I'd say get one of the "plug and pray" ecu's
But if you just want to control it and still be safe, I'd recommend the GReddy Profec B
#7
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Honestly,
By the time you've payed 500-600 for a upgraded stock ECU, and another 300 for a boost controller (like a profec B), you might just as well choke off a little more and get a power FC. Other wise, you'll end up paying just as much for upgraded "chips" for new mods, and still won't have all the features (such as being able to read water temp and intake air temp right off the cars sensors, or being able to see the voltage to every sensor in the car) and support you would have with a liscensed power FC.
Buy cheap, buy twice. Never more true than with these cars.
By the time you've payed 500-600 for a upgraded stock ECU, and another 300 for a boost controller (like a profec B), you might just as well choke off a little more and get a power FC. Other wise, you'll end up paying just as much for upgraded "chips" for new mods, and still won't have all the features (such as being able to read water temp and intake air temp right off the cars sensors, or being able to see the voltage to every sensor in the car) and support you would have with a liscensed power FC.
Buy cheap, buy twice. Never more true than with these cars.
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#9
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Originally posted by apneablue
...My next mod is definately going to be the Blitz Sbc-Id boost controler...Good luck...
...My next mod is definately going to be the Blitz Sbc-Id boost controler...Good luck...
Going back to stock controls boost too
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Originally posted by FD Seeker
Doesn't it seem disappointing to just throw away any additional boost you may have gained from other mods?
Going back to stock controls boost too
Doesn't it seem disappointing to just throw away any additional boost you may have gained from other mods?
Going back to stock controls boost too
But yes, you do have a point. That's why these cars are insidious. If you get an intake, d/p, cat-back, and ecu to run 12 psi, then you need an intercooler. Then you're going to be tempted to run 14 psi (occasionally) and then you need to buy a fuel pump and upgraded secondary injectors. And then you realize you need suspension/wheel/tire upgrades to handle all that power...... aaahhhhhhhhh
#13
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Just do the HD controllers to keep your boost at an even 10psi. That should hold you over till you can get a real computer like the PFC or similar.
STEPHEN
STEPHEN
#15
Originally posted by FD Seeker
Aren't there plenty of people out there running intake and dp on the stock ECU???
Why is this setup such a boost prob for me?
Aren't there plenty of people out there running intake and dp on the stock ECU???
Why is this setup such a boost prob for me?
maybe you have really good turbos!
#16
Rotary Freak
I have the same symptoms. I have written about it in several threads. While I am "gathering data" and trying to figure it out I am being very careful about how hard I put down my right foot.
Yesterday, on a hundred mile trip, with the sunroof open, I noticed a strong smell of exhaust gases all the way home. This is leading me to believe that my exhaust system has somewhere opened up a bit and this is causing less backpressure which in turn in allowing more creep.
At this time, this is my best guess and I plan to get under the car tomorrow to see if I can find an exhaust leak.
Yesterday, on a hundred mile trip, with the sunroof open, I noticed a strong smell of exhaust gases all the way home. This is leading me to believe that my exhaust system has somewhere opened up a bit and this is causing less backpressure which in turn in allowing more creep.
At this time, this is my best guess and I plan to get under the car tomorrow to see if I can find an exhaust leak.
#17
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Originally posted by cover8
maybe you have really good turbos!
maybe you have really good turbos!
#18
Yung Grasshoppa,
I was where you were months ago.
boost too high with Intake, DP & exhaust.
I had trouble sleeping at night knowing my boost was around 13psi. *I even hit this Fuel Cutoff that you speak of one time. So I put the silencer in the exhaust and that helped, but not enough. I sucked it up and got a Stage 3 Pettit chipped ECU. A/F's havent been tested yet, but the Ive ran it at the track and plenty of street races, at 12 psi I have no worries.
*p.s. like Apnea, I too had little luck with the Home Depot Boost Controllers. I now roll around with the silencer in the exhaust to keep boost under control. Its quiet, yet mean.
I was where you were months ago.
boost too high with Intake, DP & exhaust.
I had trouble sleeping at night knowing my boost was around 13psi. *I even hit this Fuel Cutoff that you speak of one time. So I put the silencer in the exhaust and that helped, but not enough. I sucked it up and got a Stage 3 Pettit chipped ECU. A/F's havent been tested yet, but the Ive ran it at the track and plenty of street races, at 12 psi I have no worries.
*p.s. like Apnea, I too had little luck with the Home Depot Boost Controllers. I now roll around with the silencer in the exhaust to keep boost under control. Its quiet, yet mean.
#20
Yep, because they had my boost set at 14.7 (the max the ECU will handle) On a stock IC and stock twins, I chose to keep it at 12psi especially with this Southern Summer heat coming up.
#21
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Originally posted by skunks
i like my home depot controler (i get 10psi stright to redline with it all the way open; I did not need to trial and error it )
i like my home depot controler (i get 10psi stright to redline with it all the way open; I did not need to trial and error it )
Do the home depot boost controller. It's cheap, easy to install and remove, and it will give you a safe way to drive your car while you decide about other options.
Don't do the prespool controller. You may not need it, and it really complicates the adjustment process. I wound up removing my prespool controller, and the car runs much better.
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
#22
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Originally posted by HeatTreated
Yep, because they had my boost set at 14.7 (the max the ECU will handle) On a stock IC and stock twins, I chose to keep it at 12psi especially with this Southern Summer heat coming up.
Yep, because they had my boost set at 14.7 (the max the ECU will handle) On a stock IC and stock twins, I chose to keep it at 12psi especially with this Southern Summer heat coming up.
Or, can in only be programmed to accommodate a max level of boost?
#23
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
They cannot control the boost exactly, if I'm not mistaken. They are programmed for 1bar (14.7 psi) and above. Installing one will raise your boost, but not necessarily create dangerous spikes.
Every FD reacts differently to mods. Install certain mods to one car, and you'll only get 11 psi with no dangerous spiking. Do the exact same to another, and you'll suddenly have 13 psi with some dangerous spiking during transition.
Every FD reacts differently to mods. Install certain mods to one car, and you'll only get 11 psi with no dangerous spiking. Do the exact same to another, and you'll suddenly have 13 psi with some dangerous spiking during transition.
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