3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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118k on original motor and turbos

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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 05:45 PM
  #51  
TwinTurbo93's Avatar
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From: NYC
Originally posted by rotaryhardcore
TwinTurbo93...

Good, or perhaps bad, story...there are always exceptions (lemons), I should have added that; and admittedly more of these cases with our cars.

On the same note and drawing on the third line in my 'editorial': On occasion a mechanic, especially if he has no experience with a rotary, will tell you undeniably that you have a turbo or an apex seal blown.

And this may be true; BUT, if your car is still running, (e.g. your engine cranks and will drive the car) even if very poorly...there is a strong possibility the engine does not have a blown seal but has a colapsed seal (which some may say are one in the same)...but a real rotary mechanic knows a colapsed seal can be repaired, very carefully, without rebuilding the engine.


Another problem with our cars is leaking oil; which can easily be mistaken for something broken or blown because of the smell of burning oil; and with the heat under our hoods any oil tends to be burned on the outside (and in fact a rotary engine burns a small amount mechanically.) With my current FD, I had a fairly bad oil leak and I was told by at least two -busy- mechanics that I needed to replace the car's turbos. Of course they're fine, the problem was a cracked lateral bolt in the rotor housing (which was fixed).

Put shorter, there are a lot of quirks, that actually aren't fatal, most involved parties are unaware of. Another question comes to mind: how many engines have been rebuilt due to problems (coupled with the fear of high mileage) that could have been remedied otherwise?

-C
There is no question about what you say, that is so true.
In my case apex seal was brocken, I usualy service my own car and after I found out that the second rotor had 0 (zero) compression I took her to T&R open her up and there it was, brocken apex seal, even the housing was pretty much useless so I got a whole new motor.
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 02:53 PM
  #52  
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From: Upper Marlboro
Well, the AST I want wont be available for a week or two so for now I have a temporary stock replacement and will put it on later today. So, the mileage clock continues...
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 05:21 PM
  #53  
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From: North Carolina
TwinTurbo93,

Zero compression...yup, that's all she wrote.

If we only knew what caused it.

-C
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 07:12 PM
  #54  
TwinTurbo93's Avatar
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From: NYC
Originally posted by rotaryhardcore
TwinTurbo93,



If we only knew what caused it.

-C
Remains a mistery, lol.
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 10:37 PM
  #55  
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From: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Couple other things that synthetic have an advantage over dino oil is that it has a greater film strength with respect to it's dino counterpart in weight.

Basically it's harder to run metal to metal with synthetic.

Also, synthetcis have a higher flash point and evaporation point. This means that it will be there in super hot conditions when petroleum have long evaporated or burned off.

Synthetics don't usually varnish up the engine.

There are a few more points, but it's late in the evening.
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