I've never premixed, but that's a good question! I wonder if some of the other high mileage people have???

 

Nicole........... detonation is the mileage killer for me.

Running synthetic should help alot in other areas like metal to metal wear and tear.........

 

are any of these high mileage cars modded? if so, what are your guys setups?

 

My list of things to install on my FD is very long and of course the first thing on the list is a rebuild but I'll brief you on some of my current mods (not being specific)... non-sequential setup, mpipe, dpipe, exhaust, intakes, upgraded fuel pump, alum AST, upgraded 6 puck clutch and upgraded supension; Apexi PFC, turbo timer, AVCR, gauges, etc.

 

Yeah I ran Mobil 1 Syn. in my last FD but since my current FD has so many miles on the original motor, I don't want to all of the sudden switch from non-synthetic to synthetic! I figure when I get the motor rebuilt then I'll start breaking it in using synthetic! I would rather use synthetic anyway!

 

u NEVER want to use synthetic for break in..............

 

why is that? so should I just stick with non-syn when I get the rebuild?

 

Synthetic oils will eventually seap passed oil and water seal so it is potentially more risky to run in a rotary rather than a piston motor but (and I could be wrong) I figure running a higher weight synthetic should slow the process if not stop it as well as not babying the motor. Most of the problematic FDs I've known of were baby'd or unmercifully beat on (eg. I revs before the motor has a chance to completely warmup and beating on it and cutting it off before giving the motor and turbos a chance to cool.) pretty basic stuff.

 

Synthetic lubricants are "slipperier" than regular oil, so the seals will not have a chance to "break in" . The same way a piston engine has to seat the rings, the rotary must do with the apex, corner, and side seals to the housings and endplates. If you use synthetics on break in, apparently the engine wont wear "enough" in the right spots, and you will get poorer sealing of the friction surfaces.

Most engine rebuilders say break it in for the first 750-1000 miles on dino oil, then if you want to change to synthetics go ahead. There have been issues reported of changing back to dino oil ( or is it the other way around?) and stories/proof that synthetics can seep past seals easier.

If you change oil every 1500-2k miles I don't see the point in running synth. I have always used Castrol GTX 20-50 in all my rotaries (6), and none of them have failed due to oiling -Well, one, but I figured the oil light would start blinking or something when it REALLY needed oil

 

Guys, thanks a lot the info, I really appreciate it!

 

For that do we get a pic of u Nicole?

 

Haha f'in Alain.

 

Listen guys, we 100k & over rotary people gotta stick together! I was recently browsing through the 3rd gen for sale/wanted section and I noticed that my friend whom owns a beautiful 94 Black PEP is about to get ripped because people are trying to convince him that with 100k miles the engine is about to blow! Which we ALL know, that is not always true! Anyway, he was asking $12,500 but then he went down to $11,500 which I think is a good price considering the condition of the car's body interior and exterior! I've seen it in person and I think that if he goes any lower than $11,000 than it's like he'll be giving the car away! Could you guys please help me out here and let Eric (forum name: EricWarren) the owner of the car know that those guys that have posted on his thread are not always right about the motor situation! I would REALLY appreciate it! It just pisses me off that such a great guy is about to get ripped off by selling a beautiful for dirt cheap!


Here's the link to the thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=224735

Thanks guys,
Nicole

 

Nicole.......... have u been a cheerleader before?

i like ur attitude........

 

haha yeah I cheered in high school! I just always say how I feel so that's why I posted that stuff on that thread!

 

mmmm..... yummy.

So tell me about "that" football team......

come on don't be shy.

*slips hands past ur pom poms to ur skirt*

 

Batman your a funny man!

 

Welpse, the motor isnt blown but the AST is so the FD is down for the moment current odometer reading is 119,794 miles. Just thought I'd leave an update.

 

I wonder who has the record for the highest milage original engine

 

I'd say the guy who blew his turbos at 10K and has been running N.A. for 180 k

 

You guys really make rotary engines out to be bad, considering you all own one...

I've got a little experience with every rendition of the RX-7.

There are a great many RX-7's that are either junked or rebuilt because of bad mechanics and overall ignorance. (If you want more info about that, just ask.)

If the engine's maintainence is done as scheduled, the car isn't abused, and or modified...then there really isn't a lot of room for blown motors. Mazda, for the most part, knew what they were doing. Ask yourself how many modifications Mazda has done to make our car's set up more reliable? They've changed the turbos, in size and the lining, tuned the ECU, changed the air separation box...and modified the cooling system (I know I missed a few things).

As far as I'm concerned, none of these are items that could make a motor that would 'normally blow at 90k', blow at 150k. The car was produced from '92 to '02...that's a long time for a car so 'unreliable.'

I'm sure most of the guys on this board aren't original owners, and I wonder of the few that are original owners (if they've had an engine rebuild) whether or not they can contribute it to a mistake on there part, or whether they had no reason at all.

I'm up for rebuttal and questions.

-C

 

I bot my FD in 1995 from a lawyer dude who drove it like an old lady and sure enough sold it cause he couldn't handle it, the car than had 8 K miles in it (brand spanking new).

I baby'd and pampered'it like if it was my child, changed oil every 1.5k miles and whole nine yards and still at exaclty 79.9K miles the motor gave up on me, apex seal blew on the rear rotor

My FD was bone stock, I guess is just luck or how the motor was put together the first time.

 

TwinTurbo93...

Good, or perhaps bad, story...there are always exceptions (lemons), I should have added that; and admittedly more of these cases with our cars.

On the same note and drawing on the third line in my 'editorial': On occasion a mechanic, especially if he has no experience with a rotary, will tell you undeniably that you have a turbo or an apex seal blown.

And this may be true; BUT, if your car is still running, (e.g. your engine cranks and will drive the car) even if very poorly...there is a strong possibility the engine does not have a blown seal but has a colapsed seal (which some may say are one in the same)...but a real rotary mechanic knows a colapsed seal can be repaired, very carefully, without rebuilding the engine.

Another problem with our cars is leaking oil; which can easily be mistaken for something broken or blown because of the smell of burning oil; and with the heat under our hoods any oil tends to be burned on the outside (and in fact a rotary engine burns a small amount mechanically.) With my current FD, I had a fairly bad oil leak and I was told by at least two -busy- mechanics that I needed to replace the car's turbos. Of course they're fine, the problem was a cracked lateral bolt in the rotor housing (which was fixed).

Put shorter, there are a lot of quirks, that actually aren't fatal, most involved parties are unaware of. Another question comes to mind: how many engines have been rebuilt due to problems (coupled with the fear of high mileage) that could have been remedied otherwise?

-C

 

i got 110,000 not but a few weeks ago she still pulls real strong (0-60 5.2 secs) its completly stock i change the oil @ 2k hope she keeps going!!!

 

Like I've said, most of the short lived rotaries I've known have either been unmercifully beaten on or excessively pampered. Me allowing my AST to blow is my own fault. I've known for several months that I needed to replace it but for whatever reason couldnt hold on to that much cash long enough to buy the AST. But either way, even though the AST blew it doesnt mean my motor is blown so I'll fix it and keep pushing the stock motor and turbos.