Tough to say exactly, but it closes 2 of the 3 ports on the UIM, so effectively cutting your flow by 66%. I cant say for sure, but I wouldn't think you would even see 10psi on the low end. Just use a rubberband or ziptie and rig the double throttle open (at the actuator, not inside the UIM) for now, and see if it has any effect, then you can rule that out.

 

and also, if double throttle vacuum line is unpluged those throttles will stay always opened or always closed?

 

I'd sure like to know how this works......I removed my dbl. throttle and in no way did I loose any boost at any level. With no vacuum applied these stay wide open (IIRC) and it appears his isn't hooked up, so it would be wide open. If they were stuck closed it may limit the boost but that doesn't appear to be the case here.

 

Today i checked Charge relief valve. the valve itself is working, it holds enough pressure. then i put it back and unpluged the hose after this CRV leading back to intake, put a hand at it and reved the car to redline. i felt no boost coming out of it at any RPMs at all. what could this be? CR solenoid is broken? could this lead to damadge to secondary turbo? also how do i get to this CR solenoid? we had UIM off but i couldn't find it at all. anybody has pics? of it?

 

I forgot that vacuum closes the DT, not opens it. I was picturing it stuck closed.

 

An idea hit my had right now. I forgot to mention that my tachometer is not working, its not showing rpms and doing strange movements. is it possible that because of this, ecu can not recognize RPMs and send proper signals?

BUT

1) My turbo control actuator works when we rev the car i can see it move (slowly though, takes about 1.5seconds to pull in). Should it move faster? May be but i dont have secondary boost in 3rd gear as well, so something other seems to be wrong as well right?

2) My Charge control actuator passes KOKO test but when i rev the car it is not moving.

Also how do i get to charge relief solenoid and other solenoids lcated below?

 

more questions, Can all those RPM dependent actuator tests be done in neutral? or there should be like 8psi at least? should turbo precontrol actuator move during reving to redline in neutral,

 

My turbo control actuator works when we rev the car i can see it move (slowly though, takes about 1.5seconds to pull in). Should it move faster? I saw it moved faster on disnay's video test but i dont have secondary boost in 3rd gear as well, so something other seems to be wrong as well right?

My Charge control actuator passes KOKO test but when i rev the car in neutral it is not moving at all.

turbo precontrol actuator doesnt move during reving as well

I removed the pipe from charge relief valve, leading back to intake, put my hand at it and there was no air coming out of it at any rpm range. i dont think boost is going to that valve at all. i will check if the vacuum is applied though.

So should turbo precontrol actuator, charge relief actuator and charge relief valve operate during reving in neutral?
Also how do i get to charge relief solenoid and other solenoids lcated below?

 

In the KOKO test, you should only need to rev the engine once. This fills the pressure chamber. If you're having trouble generating 4 psi in neutral, then do a short road test instead and make sure you boost a little there. (Even if the engine is a little cold, just run it around the block and push boost for about a second - it won't kill the car and you only need a second of boost to fill the pressure tank)

So now stop the car, shut off the engine, lift the hood, and remove the hose to the pressure tank. It should hiss a lot as it releases the stored pressure. (If not, you found a problem - find either the hose leak or bad check valve). Now repeat for the vacuum chamber.

If both of those were storing pressure, boost the car again for a second, shut off the engine, and now do the key-on / key-off sequence, watching only the charge control actuator and turbo control actuator. These are the two valves that should move.

Dave

 

Thanks a lot, I understand. My car has no problems boosting 4-5psi in neutral. I did so many things that i dont remember what i did and what i did not. I think pressure tank is working, because if not, there is no way it could open turbo control actuator. Vacuum chamber could be the problem, I dont remember if i tested vacuum or not but when i was looking from under the car I asked my brother to rev it. TC actuator moved in but realy slow, not like on dave diskney's video. so i removed the vacuum line going to it and put my finger on that line. I asked my brother to rev it again, and when he did, i felt no vacuum at all. On the other hand charge control actuator passes KOKO test (it's vacuum activated isnt it?).

Charge control actuator and turbo precontrol actuator are not moving when i rev the car in neutral. My question is, Should they move during reving in neutral to redlien?

 

1) I don't know which stuff is supposed to actuate when revving in neutral. Mazda's programming is different between high load and low load.

2) Did you see the TCA cycling with the key-on, key-off sequence?

Dave

 

no i will check that tomorrow. i check charge control actuator again and when i reved it did nothing. when i relised the gas and RPMs went down it moved.

I did the test for vacuum and pressure tanks. both seem to hold but pressure tank has way smaller pshhh sound than vacuum. I will do a KOKO test and watch turbo control actuator.

 

Turbo control actuator is not moving during KOKO test. vacuum and pressure tanks work but pressure tank has much smaller sound when disconnecting the hose.

 

`any Update?

 

i fixed it. it was pressure chamber check valve, also wastegate and turbo precontrol solenoid connectors were messed up.

 

Thanks for letting us know. It is always helpful to hear what solved the problem.

 

Experienced FD owner could find this problem sooner then i did. i'm new and had to deal with one of the most complicated twin turbo systems myself. pressure chamber had some amount of pshhh sound when i removed the hose and that was the problem, i have never heared it before so i thought that little sound was enough.
still have to replace all vacuum hoses, they are hard like plastic and crack when you bend them. I'm not driving the car now. i dont like the hose coming out of vacuum chamber, it sure leaks. i will start working on it as soon as my plugs, wires and O2 arrive from sparkplugs.com