Mike Panichello

iTrader: (2)

Like many of us here, I’ve dreamt of the FD3S since it was new. Back then, I was twenty and a sports car wasn’t an option but eighteen years later, I’m a proud second owner of a ’93 base with 99k miles that was completely stock. Unfortunately, time has taken its toll on both of us but the RX7, at least, I can do something about.

Here’s the goal: As far as is practical, return my car to a “zero-mile” state, while bringing it to a more current level of technology with a reasonable expectation of reliability for another 100,000 miles. Wherever possible, I’d like to “do it once, do it right” and I’d like to document what that takes, since I’m sure there are (or will be) many others in this situation. Yes, I’ve read the reliability mods, and my intent is to do them. I’ve pored over suspension, engine, exhaust, brakes…but what else would *you* add to this list?

I’m shooting for between 275-300whp, which it seems can easily be attained reliably. Please (Please!) correct me if I’m wrong.

What I’ve already purchased or installed:

• Dunlop Direzza StarSpec Z1’s on 17x8 and 17x9 SSR GT1’s: My tires were dangerously worn, these seemed like a decent combination from various postings. I know I can’t rotate tires this way (without remounting), but a matched set of GT1’s is downright impossible to find.
• Eibach springs on new Tokico Illumina shocks. Stock shocks are leaking or I would have kept them like Howard Coleman said to.
• New bumpstops, spring pads, pillowballs…thanks Malloy Mazda!
• Full PowerFlex bushing set…a car designed for handling cannot have rotted bushings, and Delrin sounds like it would be too stiff.
• Koyo radiator
• M2 downpipe (that was a fun day...)
• Racing Beat catback – Stock exhaust had a hole punched through it. (???)
• PLX gauge set (oil/water temp, oil pressure, boost)
• Aluminum AST

What I think I’ll need:

Engine:

• Aftermarket ECU
• Engine rebuild with a mild street port, if at all
• BNR Stage 3 Twins (my stock Hitachi’s are leaking oil)
• Dual oil coolers (Arizona is brutal)
• Silicone tubing for rats nest refresh
• New check valves
• Replace engine mounts
• Remove “Accelerated Warmup System”
• Block-off plates
• Inspect/rewrap harness
• Replace belts

Ignition:

• HKS TwinPower
• Replace spark plugs and wires
• Replace coils

Cooling:

• Replace radiator hoses
• Replace heater core hoses
• Drain/replace coolant
• Replace radiator (Koyo)
• Thermoswitch swap (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/fc-thermoswitch-fd-447606/)

Brakes:

• Replace brake rotors
• Replace brake pads
• Rebuild stock calipers
• SS brake lines
• Drain/replace/bleed brake fluid
• Replace ebrake cables

Fuel:

• Upgraded fuel pump
• Replace fuel lines
• Clean injectors (upgrade?)
• Replace fuel filter

Transmission:

• Drain/replace diff fluid
• Drain/replace transmission fluid
• Replace shift turret rubber
• Replace shifter bushing
• Replace clutch
• Replace throw out bearing
• Lighter (but not featherweight) flywheel and counterweight
• SS clutch line

Exhaust:

• New main cat – with a new ECU, I don’t mind pulling the stock one

Thanks for the input, everyone!
-Mike

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

Mechanically a 0 mile car? or chassis and interior included?


you will EASILY get 320hp with the mod list you got

Mike Panichello

iTrader: (2)

Primarily mechanical and chassis. When I went to replace my springs and shocks, I was unsurprised to find that the bumpstop boots were all torn, but it got me thinking that there should be a checklist of common things to replace during a full refresh of the car.

Personally, since I'll have the engine and friends all out, I'll probably do a repaint...Montego Blue hasn't held up as well as one would hope. That means pulling the interior, glass, and all the fun that entails. But if I'm going to do it, I'll do it right.
-Mike

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Wow you're like me before I spent all my money.

I'd ditch the AST. Get the rotary aviation adapter and an aquamist kit + rx7 summer as well. Why not go all the way man.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the rear suspension pillow ***** make a HUGE difference in the way the car feels/drives, its worth the $$ they cost.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

^^Andy forgets to mention you'll need a low-profile S8 OMP in order to fit the RA adapter with stock twins.

Also, don't get the PLX gauges, IMO they're horrible..... Defi all the way

I'll comment more on your post later on tonight.

swilson@assetworks.com

iTrader: (13)

just my opinion.... based on having done it both ways.
Since you have already decided to upgrade your fuel pump and get an different ECU.
Just do away with the twins and go to a moderately sized single turbo and a cast manifold.
Only change would be to up size your injectors. If you are going to keep the car for some time the cost to rebuild/replace the single turbo is about half of what the twins will run.
The difference in "spool up" is really not that big a deal if you don't put a big single in.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I too can vouch for Defi gauges. They are the *****. However, I do have a PLX wideband and it works well.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I totally agree. The twins are a thermo nightmare. Not to mention their complex system of solonoids and wiring. For your power goals a T04E with a decent AR would be very cost effective, spool fast, and generate much less headaches than a twin setup.

A GT30 ball bearing would be another option. 300-320whp is fairly easy to achieve.

shelldawg

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend removing the oil metering pump, premix and water injection.

Mike Panichello

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the feedback! I was hesitant to start this post since it sounds like such a wishlist, but I'd much rather buy the right parts for this particular goal the first time around than build through trial and error.


I've thought and read much about the single vs. twin debate, and I know the best advice is to get a ride in what you want to build, but I don't have a lot of options that I know of locally. Most people seem to build for big numbers when they get this far, and that's not my goal.

Now, if there *is* a single turbo that will give me stock-ish feel with the benefits of cooler underhood, simplified setup, and greater reliablity...then I'm all ears! I may run a few HPDE's a year, but 95% of my time is on the street, where I won't be shifting at 7,500rpm.


Thanks. I considered it, since carbon from our stock "combust impure engine oil" design seems to be a well-known killer. My only concern with premix is running out...but the RA kit sounds interesting. I'd feel better with a tank that will last for a while rather than adding premix every fillup.

I've read Howard Coleman's post (and a few others) on alcohol injection and I might need to educate myself more, there. Sounds promising, but how often would I need to fill the tank for that, on average? For a track car, I don't mind popping the hood before every start...but I'd like my FD to be capable of daily driving, and that would be excessive.


Already have 'em, you betcha! Eager to make the clunk go away, but I'm planning to do all the suspension in one shot, if possible.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Hey Mike,

Give me a ring or send an email. Many of us in RCCAZ have done exactly what you're intending to do. Mine was in the exact ballpark you're aiming for before I went single turbo. My stock ported twins made 319 RWHP at 13 psi before my coolant seal eventually gave way. One thing you haven't posted is whether or not you intend to keep the car AZ emissions legal. If so, that may limit your options in the single turbo arena, especially if you intend to retain your air pump.

Again, lots to discuss. If you're interested I'm always here to help! Just let me know!!

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Look at my build thread. It is an amazing street setup. I am making a bit more power than what you are looking for, but this is an exact example of how well a single setup can work with the right components.

I remember with my twins how much my car would retain heat. In the summer, I would drive it and after being parked for 2 HOURS, I would go out to start it and still be sitting at 60C. This was with a car with good bolt-on mods.

Now, my car cools down so fast. Ceramic coated manifolds, turbo blanket, and proper cooling mods create a combo that is very healthy for the engine. Please look at my Sig for my build thread.

SINGLE ALL THE WAY.

For the amount of power you want, a single setup would be the same cost as the twins. You could easily run 4 850cc injectors, PFC, single turbo, bigger stock mount intercooler, open exaust, and good cooling mods.

You could get there so easy with GREAT response.

darkphantom

iTrader: (2)

dont really take everything to zero mileage because there is somethings that doesnt need to be there and others that you need to change stock wise