as some of you may know, i'm trying to fix my poorly running FD that doesn't pass smog. the idle on my car sounds like it's about to stall or constantly choking. the needle seems to point to around 750 RPM (actually 759 on the smog check machine). however, sometimes the needle dips to the 500 line or worse drops to zer0 and stalls completely. strangely when the fan kicks in or when the lights are on, it bumps idle up a few hundred RPMs and it seems to run smoother. therefore, i hope that adjusting the idle speed can make it run better.

is this a repost? no. i searched for how to adjust idle but the directions were not clear enough for a non-mechanic (myself) to understand. therefore i had to figure it out on my own.

PARTS:
flat screwdriver (small)
8mm closed end wrench

1. locate the throttle body (in between upper intake manifold and silver intake elbow).
2. there will be two (2) adjustment screws on the throttle body.
3. phillips screw (+) facing straight up with a nut (locking nut) on the thread is NOT the idle adjustment screw. i believe this is the air bleed screw.
4. look for the throttle cable on the throttle body (closer to oil cap)
5. flat screw (-) facing straight up with a locking nut on the thread IS the idle speed adjustment screw.
6. use a 8mm closed end wrench to adjust the locking nut.
7. use wrench to move nut upwards so there is thread on the screw below the nut. now you can tighten screw which pushes the metal part below the screw downwards (down to increase idle, moving screw up decrease idle).
8. turn the screwdriver to tighten in 1/4 increments.
9. do not adjust base idle higher than 1000 RPM. when the radiator fan kicks in the idle will bump up going beyond the 1100 RPM maximum idle (700-1100 RPM limit on smog check idle test). if the car is running rough at factory 800 RPM, try adjusting to 950 RPM.
10. make adjustment, check tachometer, make adjustment, check tachometer (unless you have a tachometer to plug into diagnostics port)

disclaimer: information for comparison only. use at your own risk.

 

IMHO, it's better to fix the problem rather than mask it by simply raising the idle speed high enough to avoid stalling. I can understand the desire to pass smog, but you really shouldn't ignore the underlying problem.


One of the many possible causes of a rough idle includes a disconnected air pump. A quick way to check this is to unplug the electric connector, which will turn it off. With the pump off, you should notice your car idles worse than before. If you take it off and don't notice a change, you might have found the culprit.


By the way, do you really think it's a good idea to give technical advice when you are admittedly "a non-mechanic " yourself? I believe the saying goes "If the blind lead the blind, they both fall in the ditch."

-s-

 

information for comparison only.

i posted this to get your feedback. thanks for your tip on the air pump.

i'm not really sure what the problem is, maybe the previous owner tampered with the idle and made it too low causing the car to misfire resulting in high hydrocarbons at idle. it does pass at 2500 RPM idle test, just not at base idle.

 

RX76K,

There is really no need for you to post a "how I worked on my car" thread every time you do something. Actually, it may do more harm than good. Some people that know even less than you might think that you are an expert, and follow your advice. Then you will be to blame for screwing up someone elses car, not just your own.

Many people won't see your "disclaimer"

 

Why don't you just save yourself some time & allot of trouble & buy a FSM (Factory Service Manual)?????

This is your 3rd dumb *** post on how you half *** try to fix something on your car.
Then post some lame *** "write-up" on what a genius you are.

PER THE FSM.................................

To properly adjust your idle you need to first, disable the ISC (Idle Speed Control) solenoid.

How do you do that? ground the #10 pin in the diagnosis connector.

Next you adjust the AAS (air adjusting screw) on the throttle body till you tach reads 700-750 rpms.

That's it..............................................

 

rx76k,

Did you read the information I posted in the airpump removal thread to help you with smog? If you're still having smog problems I've heard good things about Ricks Rotary Performance as far as diagnosing failure of emissions controls.

 

too many critics and it's just not worth the hassle, no more write ups.

you guys are on your own.

pls lock thread.

 

There is a difference in being a critic of another's opinion on a subject, and pointing out that an elaborate proceedure that is posted as "proper" is actually wrong. The FSM covers this, as does links in the beginning of the FD section. A search would turn it up too.

"you guys are on your own"

given the wealth of info available at and through this seasoned site, I think the "guys" will survive without another epic write up about oil changes (or an incorrect idle adjustment proceedure). the car is new to you, but it's been around over a decade.

 

Sorry rx76k, but when you didn't include "drink a beer" as a step in your oil change write up and did include stuff to stay clean you totally lost me. Good luck passin smog, y'all out west are a little more hardcore about that than us east coasters. Oh, and don't be bitter. At least no one said "j00 got pwn3d!".

 

thanks for posting this thread. i really needed a good laugh this morning!

 

Thank God... Alleluiah...

 

 

******* forums...i swear

 

Whether your goal is to be helpful or just seem intelligent, answering simple questions that nobody is asking is not the way to do it. The owner's manual gives plenty of info how to do basic maintenance items such as changing oil, plugs, coolant, etc..



00. HOW-I help other people with their RX-7 questions

1. Learn useful stuff, quietly, without being a pest. Don't limit yourself to this forum, use the rest of the internet also. Don't limit yourself to just the internet either, as it's not always a reliable source.


2. Help other with their questions, whether it's by:
a.) creating a writeup that hasn't been covered ever, in response to someone's questions (for instance, someone asked how to do this, so I figured it out and posted it here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/headlight-wiring-mod-low-beams-high-beams-395535/ ) , or
b.) helping organize info into an easily searchable list: ( for instance, https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/ ), or
c.) simply browse these forums for questions and answer them if you know the correct answer.


If you really want to help, it's my opinion that a thorough, well-organized FAQ is the best way to do it. I compiled 90% of the links at our FAQ as a result of my previous searches, and dgeesaman wrote out all the questions and answers. You are more than welcome to PM me with links to topics that you feel should belong in the FAQ but aren't yet there. I'll forward them to the proper moderator and he can update the thread.

-s-

 

LOL! How ironic. Well, now we agree completely on something. This is precisely why I was critical of rx76k's post in another thread he started. (As I later explained in that same thread.) Despite rx76k's subsequent disclaimers, these posts of his have all the appearances of a "how to" guide. Yet, if read closely enough you can readily see this guy has yet to learn some of the basics of the FD. The goal of this forum should be good and reliable information. The only way to assure that is an open discussion in which others are free to point out the inadequacies or incorrect information in any particular post.