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Yep look like it burn at the top middle just under those bunch wire running to the top.
Circle it. There is nothing burnt. Tell me how to test it to verify your assumption aside from saying to replace the circuitry. I've tested continuity across all the solder joints and they all connect.
I can't really test it without having the cluster in front of me.
Only way know is to have another 99 cluster to test it.
What do you mean? Tell me how to test it. If you can test it if you had it then tell me how to do it to prove it. Having another cluster is not a way to test this one.
There is many possibility to cause this problem which I can't really explain it. Only best it to test with another 99 cluster if can you burrow from someone you might know close by which can lend you to test it? Because if I have another 99 cluster laying around I would sent to you and you can test it on your "car".
There is many possibility to cause this problem which I can't really explain it. Only best it to test with another 99 cluster if can you burrow from someone you might know close by which can lend you to test it? Because if I have another 99 cluster laying around I would sent to you and you can test it on your "car".
Look at the cluster circuitry back from your pic you taken it have some burn mark to it.
I have look carefully and taken pics of the cluster before I sent it out to you.
It could easily short circuit and damage the cluster when you first plug it in not correctly.
can you please share those pictures with everyone ?
can you please share those pictures with everyone ?
This is the only pic he shared with me of it before it was shipped. It's small and none of the connectors that you see attached to it were included when he sent it so hard to say if it's even the same.
I just want to know how to test this thing to verify and/or figure out where the issue is. I paid A LOT of money to Hard2B for this thing not to work properly. I think it might be a simple issue but until I can figure out the correct way to test it, I won't know.
Here are the facts of what's happened thus far:
1. Spirit cluster arrived and was installed. No modification to the cluster was made whatsoever at the time of the initial installation. Illumination on left half of cluster was not working. Assumed it was a bad bulb and waited until I was going to wire in the boost gauge (which has been done successfully in this thread many times the same way I did it) to check out the bulbs.
2. Removed Spirit cluster and replaced ALL bulbs in the cluster. The issue with illumination did not change.
3. Removed all bulbs that were not illuminating. Replaced bulbs again with no change. Checked all the sockets in question. All sockets and bulbs were tested on the bench to verify they work and all checked out. So not a bulb nor socket issue.
4. Removed Spirit cluster and installed both my previously installed Mazdaspeed and OEM clusters. No issues whatsoever with illumination.
5. Based on this thread, the 99+ clusters install with no modifications needed (aside from the two wires to get the boost gauge to work). This fact would lead me to believe the issue lies somewhere in the cluster and not on the car side since A. others haven't had this issue with the same cluster and B. the other two clusters work properly.
This pic I have used to advertise for sale like 1-2yr ago and it was been boxed and stored away.
if you look at the series number printed on it are the same.
Can you tell me how you plug it in the first time onto your car?
because there people do make that little mistake plug it in.
Originally Posted by THE TECH
This is the only pic he shared with me of it before it was shipped. It's small and none of the connectors that you see attached to it were included when he sent it so hard to say if it's even the same.
This pic I have used to advertise for sale like 1-2yr ago and it was been boxed and stored away.
if you look at the series number printed on it are the same.
Can you tell me how you plug it in the first time onto your car?
because there people do make that little mistake plug it in.
You can't plug in the connectors wrong. They are not shaped in a way that will allow the plugs to be inserted upside down.
If you want a quick cheap fix you can just run wires from a bulb or bulbs that do work which might be slightly not as bright or replace all bulbs
with t10 and t5 leds and they will all shine the same if you use jump wires from another bulb.
I have messed around on a few clusters with changing bulbs adding more bulbs to the cluster / h/vac and gear console with both types of bulbs old and new leds.
If you want a quick cheap fix you can just run wires from a bulb or bulbs that do work which might be slightly not as bright or replace all bulbs
with t10 and t5 leds and they will all shine the same if you use jump wires from another bulb.
I have messed around on a few clusters with changing bulbs adding more bulbs to the cluster / h/vac and gear console with both types of bulbs old and new leds.
Believe me, I've already considered that option. Just not sure the best way to jump the power and grounds to the other bulbs.
So I got the cluster to work. It's definitely an issue with the cluster though. The pins on the cluster are worn and don't make perfect contact with the harness. I made a few, minor adjustments with the board and got it to work. No telling how long it will last though.
Hey! I need help... I installed my 99 Spec cluster last night but I get this buzzer sound for few seconds then turns off and the cycle keeps going also while this is happening the add coolant light turns on. I did not have this issue on my other two pre 99 spec clusters..
Hello, i have a 1993 European Spec RX7, i have installed a Mazdaspeed Cluster with the oil pressure gauge.
It's work all except the Cat Heat is steady on and it's beep all time but goes off when I put the rear fog light on.
have to test some bulb to be sure that the hazad light work (actually not working)
Also i notice this difference:
Below is my '93 cluster, i have in the tachometer the cruise control light and the airbag light.
Anyone with this problem?
I'm am also thinking to swap all the indicator on my 93 cluster, but the problem of the airbag could remain.
Any help or suggestions?
Thanks 93 European Connector Module inside for Cruise control and AirBag light. Empty slot are for automatic transmission (I guess)
Last edited by pietrino; 04-18-20 at 07:09 AM.
Reason: Add some notice
I solved the constant buzzer problem, here is the story:
I had problem with the Tachometer and i swapped with a used but in very well condition Mazdaspeed cluster.
I had the Buzzer sound continuously after a long research here on the forum I found no solution but a lot of information.
So whats trigger the buzzer to sound continuously? only 2 things i read:
1) Low coolant
2) Over rev rpm
Since the cluster was new and the old was working without the buzzer i was thinking that was the over rev rpm, but was much simpler to test the coolant sensor.
Here is the magic:
I tested the coolant sensor was working, but not good. You should have electrical continuity between the coolant sensor and the ground. There wasn't but it was close, I mean the differential voltage was V 11,85 instead of battery voltage of V 12,60.
This was working on the old cluster but not in this new (may be is more sensitive).
I also disconnect the coolant sensor and saw that the buzzer was finally OFF and the coolant warning light ON.
Then I connected the coolant cable to the ground instead of the sensor and everythings is now working fine, buzzer OFF coolant warning light OFF.
So even if Your coolant warning was not giving fault before, may be the new cluster has minor tolerance in Voltage and sound the buzzer alarm.
10-10-17, 11:22 AM
