*SIGH* What would you do?
07-03-07, 09:57 AM
#1
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*SIGH* What would you do?
Hey everyone, I just had my wastegate ported and a turbo-back exhaust installed, and set my PFC to .7BAR(10.29psi). It doesn't even slow it down if I get on it, even if I gradually accelerate, it just shoots past that like nothing. Will an EBC help at all? I'd hate to have to put a restrictor plate in there... are there any other options? I'm sick of having to drive around like a grandma all the time... ~A-Rod
07-03-07, 10:17 AM
#3
You can try an EBC, but most likely it's not going to help if you are having true creep. An EBC is never a bad thing though.
You basically have two options if it's creep:
1. Restrictor plate
2. Send the turbos to Garfinkle and have him port the wastegate larger and install a larger wastegate door.
You basically have two options if it's creep:
1. Restrictor plate
2. Send the turbos to Garfinkle and have him port the wastegate larger and install a larger wastegate door.
07-03-07, 12:35 PM
#7
If you disconnect the WGA and PGA actuator lines that connect to the solenoids and cap them off, you should only boost to 7 psi max which is what the stock wastegate is sprung for. If you see more than 7 psi in this configuration your wastegate is not actuating properly.
If you see 7 psi, however, you can be confident that the wastegate is working properly and the problem lies in either your solenoids or a leak in the lines allowing pressure to bypass the WGA.
Be aware of which hoses you've disconnected because there are restrictor pills that need to go back when you're done testing.
If you see 7 psi, however, you can be confident that the wastegate is working properly and the problem lies in either your solenoids or a leak in the lines allowing pressure to bypass the WGA.
Be aware of which hoses you've disconnected because there are restrictor pills that need to go back when you're done testing.
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07-03-07, 07:30 PM
#9
07-03-07, 08:54 PM
#10
Absolutely, you can do this with everything on the car, though it helps to remove the intake piping.
Locate the Wastegate and Turbo Precontrol Actuators in the diagram. They are in the middle and to the right (facing towards the front of the car) of the turbo assembly.
Notice the two vacuum lines pictured that connect to the upper "hat" of each of these actuators... What's not pictured are two vaccum lines 180 degrees opposite of these (one on each actuator) that connect to pipes that go all the way up to the rat's nest. These are the two lines (the ones not in the picture) you want to disconnect.
Cap off the nipples on the actuators. Remember which line goes to which actuator because of the restrictor pills inside them and the solenoids to which they connect are important. Failure to cap off these connectors will result in infinite boost.
Locate the Wastegate and Turbo Precontrol Actuators in the diagram. They are in the middle and to the right (facing towards the front of the car) of the turbo assembly.
Notice the two vacuum lines pictured that connect to the upper "hat" of each of these actuators... What's not pictured are two vaccum lines 180 degrees opposite of these (one on each actuator) that connect to pipes that go all the way up to the rat's nest. These are the two lines (the ones not in the picture) you want to disconnect.
Cap off the nipples on the actuators. Remember which line goes to which actuator because of the restrictor pills inside them and the solenoids to which they connect are important. Failure to cap off these connectors will result in infinite boost.
07-05-07, 05:48 PM
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Alright, I capped the nipple(only 1 actuator, I'm non-seq), and I still seem to have the problem. Does this appear to be a sticking w/g or something? Doesn't even slow it down...
Before:
After:
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Before:
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07-05-07, 06:18 PM
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Ugh, all you had to do to test this was unplug the solenoids at the front of the UIM....you need to uncap that and put the line back for the PFC to control boost.
Have you checked the line from the turbo housing to the actuator? I would just replace it (don't forget to swap the pill to the new line). Have you checked the physical linkage of the actuator to the flapper door?
Have you checked the line from the turbo housing to the actuator? I would just replace it (don't forget to swap the pill to the new line). Have you checked the physical linkage of the actuator to the flapper door?
07-05-07, 06:25 PM
#16
I suggest you try another wastegate actuator or tee a line over the two actuator nipples and pressure test it. If the actuator is leaking internally I can see that stopping it from working properly.
Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.
Dave
Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.
Dave
07-05-07, 06:29 PM
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Its getting too dark here to visually inspect the physical linkage, but I've been assured by the person who did the work that it's all connected properly. I figured it must be a mechanical problem rather than loose lines.
07-05-07, 07:40 PM
#19
I was told that using this setup, the car shouldn't see more than 7psi.
Its getting too dark here to visually inspect the physical linkage, but I've been assured by the person who did the work that it's all connected properly. I figured it must be a mechanical problem rather than loose lines.
Its getting too dark here to visually inspect the physical linkage, but I've been assured by the person who did the work that it's all connected properly. I figured it must be a mechanical problem rather than loose lines.
Another thing you can do is if you have a compressor, you could feed 7-10 psi of air to the actuator inlet nipple or hose and observe it to see if it's actually causing the arm to move. If it's not moving at around 7 psi, the wastegate actuator is non-functional and you've found the answer to your problem.
07-05-07, 07:42 PM
#20
The whole point of the test is to remove the solenoid and the PFC completely and utterly from the equation and determine if the fundamental mechanicals are working properly first. If they aren't, as appears to be the case, there is no need whatsoever to be worrying about the electronics as nothing they can do at this point will resolve the issue.
07-05-07, 07:46 PM
#21
I suggest you try another wastegate actuator or tee a line over the two actuator nipples and pressure test it. If the actuator is leaking internally I can see that stopping it from working properly.
Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.
Dave
Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.
Dave
07-06-07, 11:27 AM
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I tried to move the w/g flapper door, and I couldn't get it to budge. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to push it towards the car or pull it away, but either way I couldn't get it to move. However, it was very difficult to reach, and I probably wasn't able to apply much pressure on it.
07-06-07, 11:41 AM
#23
The wastegate actuator spring is pretty sturdy. You probably won't budge it with your fingers.
Unclip the e-clip and free the arm from the actuator to test the range of motion.
Testing the actuator will require a mityvac. Or you can get a spare actuator, which costs very little. It's highly unlikely that you'd end up with two bad wg actuators on your hands.
Dave
Unclip the e-clip and free the arm from the actuator to test the range of motion.
Testing the actuator will require a mityvac. Or you can get a spare actuator, which costs very little. It's highly unlikely that you'd end up with two bad wg actuators on your hands.
Dave
