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*SIGH* What would you do?

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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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*SIGH* What would you do?

Hey everyone, I just had my wastegate ported and a turbo-back exhaust installed, and set my PFC to .7BAR(10.29psi). It doesn't even slow it down if I get on it, even if I gradually accelerate, it just shoots past that like nothing. Will an EBC help at all? I'd hate to have to put a restrictor plate in there... are there any other options? I'm sick of having to drive around like a grandma all the time... ~A-Rod
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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I would do the Damien 'double' boost controller setup.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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You can try an EBC, but most likely it's not going to help if you are having true creep. An EBC is never a bad thing though.

You basically have two options if it's creep:

1. Restrictor plate
2. Send the turbos to Garfinkle and have him port the wastegate larger and install a larger wastegate door.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Are you sure that the boost-control system is connected properly? How about testing with the WG actuator disconnected and the flapper wired open?
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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rynberg's Avatar
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If it's just "shooting past it", then your wastegate is not opening.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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yea def sounds like its not opening at all if it climbs soo quick
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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If you disconnect the WGA and PGA actuator lines that connect to the solenoids and cap them off, you should only boost to 7 psi max which is what the stock wastegate is sprung for. If you see more than 7 psi in this configuration your wastegate is not actuating properly.

If you see 7 psi, however, you can be confident that the wastegate is working properly and the problem lies in either your solenoids or a leak in the lines allowing pressure to bypass the WGA.

Be aware of which hoses you've disconnected because there are restrictor pills that need to go back when you're done testing.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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^ Good advice here. Capping the actuators on the solenoid side is the simplest possible setup and very important for verifying that the mechanical stuff is working.

Dave
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Alright. I guess I'll check that out then. Can I do that with the turbos on the car? I have a lot of stuff removed, they're pretty accesible right now.

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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Absolutely, you can do this with everything on the car, though it helps to remove the intake piping.



Locate the Wastegate and Turbo Precontrol Actuators in the diagram. They are in the middle and to the right (facing towards the front of the car) of the turbo assembly.

Notice the two vacuum lines pictured that connect to the upper "hat" of each of these actuators... What's not pictured are two vaccum lines 180 degrees opposite of these (one on each actuator) that connect to pipes that go all the way up to the rat's nest. These are the two lines (the ones not in the picture) you want to disconnect.

Cap off the nipples on the actuators. Remember which line goes to which actuator because of the restrictor pills inside them and the solenoids to which they connect are important. Failure to cap off these connectors will result in infinite boost.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 05:48 PM
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Exclamation

Alright, I capped the nipple(only 1 actuator, I'm non-seq), and I still seem to have the problem. Does this appear to be a sticking w/g or something? Doesn't even slow it down...

Before:


After:


Boost:
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 05:51 PM
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Note: The car doesn't accelerate as quickly as before the cap, even at lower boost(<7)

Last edited by MADDSLOW; Jul 5, 2007 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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it might be time for an aftermarket wastegate.

Also, a professional tune could help.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:03 PM
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The twins use an internal W/G. I don't think I can use an aftermarket one.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Ugh, all you had to do to test this was unplug the solenoids at the front of the UIM....you need to uncap that and put the line back for the PFC to control boost.

Have you checked the line from the turbo housing to the actuator? I would just replace it (don't forget to swap the pill to the new line). Have you checked the physical linkage of the actuator to the flapper door?
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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I suggest you try another wastegate actuator or tee a line over the two actuator nipples and pressure test it. If the actuator is leaking internally I can see that stopping it from working properly.

Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.

Dave
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Ugh, all you had to do to test this was unplug the solenoids at the front of the UIM....you need to uncap that and put the line back for the PFC to control boost.
That would not have caught a leaky solenoid or leaky vacuum line.

Both ways would have been a useful diagnostic step; this is a game of divide and conquer.

Dave
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Ugh, all you had to do to test this was unplug the solenoids at the front of the UIM....you need to uncap that and put the line back for the PFC to control boost.
I was told that using this setup, the car shouldn't see more than 7psi.

Its getting too dark here to visually inspect the physical linkage, but I've been assured by the person who did the work that it's all connected properly. I figured it must be a mechanical problem rather than loose lines.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MADDSLOW
I was told that using this setup, the car shouldn't see more than 7psi.

Its getting too dark here to visually inspect the physical linkage, but I've been assured by the person who did the work that it's all connected properly. I figured it must be a mechanical problem rather than loose lines.
What you have done is correct and you should see no more than 7 psi. This is assuming that the remaining vaccum line connected to the front of the actuator is providing a good boost/vacuum "signal". Make sure there's no leaks going on there.

Another thing you can do is if you have a compressor, you could feed 7-10 psi of air to the actuator inlet nipple or hose and observe it to see if it's actually causing the arm to move. If it's not moving at around 7 psi, the wastegate actuator is non-functional and you've found the answer to your problem.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Ugh, all you had to do to test this was unplug the solenoids at the front of the UIM....you need to uncap that and put the line back for the PFC to control boost.
The whole point of the test is to remove the solenoid and the PFC completely and utterly from the equation and determine if the fundamental mechanicals are working properly first. If they aren't, as appears to be the case, there is no need whatsoever to be worrying about the electronics as nothing they can do at this point will resolve the issue.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I suggest you try another wastegate actuator or tee a line over the two actuator nipples and pressure test it. If the actuator is leaking internally I can see that stopping it from working properly.

Disconnect the wastegate arm and make sure it moves freely through the full range of motion.

Dave
Yea +1 to what Dave said. I guess I should have read the other replies first
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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I tried to move the w/g flapper door, and I couldn't get it to budge. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to push it towards the car or pull it away, but either way I couldn't get it to move. However, it was very difficult to reach, and I probably wasn't able to apply much pressure on it.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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The wastegate actuator spring is pretty sturdy. You probably won't budge it with your fingers.

Unclip the e-clip and free the arm from the actuator to test the range of motion.

Testing the actuator will require a mityvac. Or you can get a spare actuator, which costs very little. It's highly unlikely that you'd end up with two bad wg actuators on your hands.

Dave
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Try modifing your stock watesgate or just ditch it and get a external one...
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RX729
Try modifing your stock watesgate or just ditch it and get a external one...
"Or just ditch it and get a[n] external one..."

Sorry but it doesn't work like that.

Dave
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