hey guys this would be my first post on your great forum.

i know this may be a stupid question and believe me ive searched for over an hour with little help. my fd is having strange boost problems. i have a manual boost controler that was installed by rotary performance and it has worked great up til now. i have set it all the way down, so under WOT i still should get a few pounds but i go over ten everytime . and when i get out of the car i see smoke out of the rear wheel wells . i looked under the car and it looked like it was comming from where the cat meets the exhaust, so im not too sure what thats about. but any help would be so greatly appreciated!

thanks alot guys i know your the experts to turn to!

 

You said it worked up until now....what did you do?

If you close a manual controller all the way, the wastegate won't see any pressure and the car will overboost badly.

 

heres a list of my mods if that might help

*stock turbos fully non-sequential
*all new vacume lines zip tied
*Koyo rad
*Amemiya intake
*Manual Boost controler
*Stainless Steel Down pipe
*RX-7 Store Racing Beat Dual Tip Exhaust
*Greddy Power Pulley Kit

and thats about all i can think of at the moment..

 

Well the car sat in the garage for a week and it just started when i took it out. my boost controler is a *** you twist and i twisted it to its lowest setting before and i only got about 3-4 pounds so i thought my calibration just got messed up so i put it down to see if i would get the normal reaction and i still boost over ten. so this thing has got me stumped

 

What color is the smoke? I think rynberg answered your other question. Also your car is going to make 7 pounds anyways since thats what the wastegate spring is rated at.

 

yes even with the boost controler i should get 7 pounds but im just wondering why i get well over 10 (it will go to 13 and i could see it go 15 and more with more throttle) about the smoke its real clear but has a little white in it....hope its not too serious

 

.

 

open the boost controller up some more. Usually the way these things are calibrated is you open it up all the way, then you slowly close it until you get your desired boost level.

 

thats a good idea ill try that in the morning. are you sure this might work?

 

Maybe it is just my imagination but lets say hypotheticaly someone sealed your cat to mid with some silicone sealant. And now that sealant has leaked or fallen or is just not there same for a gasket. Couldn't you be experiencing boost creep which the manual boost controller could not control>? Just an idea......

Alex

 

You need to inspect the rubber hoses around the boost controller. If you're getting around 15psi, it sounds like it's not doing any boost control at all. When the hoses from the compressor elbow to the actuator to the boost controller leak, you get that kind of problem.

Dave

 

i checked the hoses around the controler and its very unlikely that its one of them because they are all zip tied and have some kind of white sealent around the end pieces. i also think i might have found what the problem could be, its this circle device with a niple o each side. the left side has a hose but not the right, im just wondering if there should be something there or is it just because of the nonsequential set up.

here are some pics if that might help...

 

sorry forgot to format

 

You need to open up the manual controler to reduce your boost level. If you continue to rub at tose levels you'll' have some serious probems with th motor.

 

Serious problems being: Required Rebuild

 

oh man i didnt know it could be that serious! ill open that thing up asap! just seems strange though to alow more boost to come in to lower the psi. any way can any body help me find out whats up with that part in the second pic?

 

That is your wastegate actuator. The open nipple indicates that the actuator can't be pressurized and the boost controller and wastegate are effectively disabled.

I *think* there should be a hose connecting your boost controller to that nipple. You need to find it and reconnect it with a ziptie so it can't pop off again. It would probably be best to clean off that nipple and hose with solvent so it grips better. You'll need to retune the boost setting, so open it up all the way and when it's controlling the boost again you can slowly close down the valve until you get back up to 10psi.

Dave

 

well i couldent find another hose that might connet to the other end, but thanks so much for your input its been extremely helpful . thanks guys and please keep the ideas comming!

 

With manual boost controller you should block that open nipple. It is supposed to go to your solenoid with vacuum hose.

 

would it be bad to block off that other nipple with pressure comming in one side and traping it?

 

That's not how it works! I hope you aren't driving the car right now. You have a lot to learn before you blow it up.

There is normally a vacuum line that runs from the actuator solenoid at the front of the intake manifold (UIM) to the driver's side nipple on the wastegate actuator. The line leaving the boost controller should connect to the passenger side nipple. To run a boost controller, you need to cap the driver's side nipple AND cap the vacuum line running back to the actuator solenoid.

This is basic boost controller install instructions that are covered in the FAQ thread. If you don't want to take the time to learn how this works, that's fine, get the car to a place that knows FDs well.

 

Yes definitly cap that off and make sure that the vac line going to the actuator solinoid or the solinoid it self is capped off. Also, some people even go as far as to put a needle valve or ball and spring valve after the actuator to be able to control how fast your turbos spool up. I believe that all the way closed will boost the fastest. Hope this helps.

-Matthew

 

No, in fact since you say you can't find the hose that fits to it, you should do exactly this. It will disable your boost controller, but run the wastegate actuator at spring pressure, which should be around 7psi.

At least you can safely drive until you get it fixed properly.

Dave

 

oh man thank you guys so much for all of your input. i put a cap on the nipple and i am running the 7 lbs. its going back to rotary performance tomarow morning where they can take a look at it. im very sorry if my questions seem dumb but im still really new to this so hopefully you guys can help me out a little because theres nothing i want more than to know this car inside and out