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throwing on the single and another 100hp, is it more fun? or did it suddenly get very serious?
THIS is something to seriously consider. I'm a bit of an adrenaline junky so after I got use to it, I considered it to be MUCH more fun, but at the same time driving a ~450 hp FD is STRESSFUL. Not "worried about the engine blowing up stressful", but "can I got 15 mph in a school zone?" stressful. There's been more times than I can count where I go to causally pass someone in a 35 mph zone and I gently press the gas and all of a sudden the wheels are spinning or I'm going double the speed limit. Not to mention if you're irresponsible and hit anything going triple digits, you're toast; it is literally a weapon in my opinion. I believe you have to be very mature and ready for the added stress levels of owning a sub 3000lb car with so much power. Like they say, "With great power comes great responsibility". Oh, and terrible terrible gas mileage
I've watched enough Christies, B.A.T. and Mecum auctions to see that stock cars are worth more. Reliability mods like a downpipe and AST are good signs of a knowledgeable previous owner, but making the car illegal in more than one state won't help if and when you decide to sell.
Honestly, this is a mute point IMO. Very few people buy a car trying to subconsciously keep in mind what it'll be worth when it comes time to sell it because, much like a marriage, you go into it thinking it'll last for life. I do not knock the people who keep their cars stock, that your purgative and I respect it. However, I built this car with the vision of what I believe the car should be for me and I'm tired of the "iT'lL bE wOrTh mOrE iF yOu dIdN't mOdIfY it"...OF COURSE IT WILL! That point has been beat to death.
Honestly, this is a mute point IMO. Very few people buy a car trying to subconsciously keep in mind what it'll be worth when it comes time to sell it because, much like a marriage, you go into it thinking it'll last for life. I do not knock the people who keep their cars stock, that your purgative and I respect it. However, I built this car with the vision of what I believe the car should be for me and I'm tired of the "iT'lL bE wOrTh mOrE iF yOu dIdN't mOdIfY it"...OF COURSE IT WILL! That point has been beat to death.
Pretty much my thought exactly. You only live once. So, enjoy things and worry about problems later. Nobody really gets into cars with the thought of making money on them. If you do, you're in a whole different league of car ownership.
I've watched enough Christies, B.A.T. and Mecum auctions to see that stock cars are worth more. Reliability mods like a downpipe and AST are good signs of a knowledgeable previous owner, but making the car illegal in more than one state won't help if and when you decide to sell.
Agree with Many 100% . You have to decide if you are in the business of making money out of cars or enjoying them. Personally I think there are way better ways to make money than sitting on your non income producing 'investment' car and would much rather enjoy it for what I've turned it into.
You also have to think that some people just like a car the way it comes stock. Mods either don't serve their purposes (too loud, low suspension, etc.) or they aren't mechanically inclined and just get the car and drive it how it sits.
The thing with the FD is it's SO modify-able, there's SO much that can be done to improve it or tailor to particular needs.
At the end of the day it's your car, do what you want with it.
Hell, my car decorates the garage more often than not. I just recently FINALLY put a new battery in it and drove it around, it had been sitting with a dead battery for 2 months or so .
Honestly, this is a mute point IMO. Very few people buy a car trying to subconsciously keep in mind what it'll be worth when it comes time to sell it because, much like a marriage, you go into it thinking it'll last for life. I do not knock the people who keep their cars stock, that your purgative and I respect it. However, I built this car with the vision of what I believe the car should be for me and I'm tired of the "iT'lL bE wOrTh mOrE iF yOu dIdN't mOdIfY it"...OF COURSE IT WILL! That point has been beat to death.
Same here!! I bought the car in 1998 when I was 25 years old so I could drive it and enjoy ienjoy did mostly performance and reliability mods and still drive the car as I did when I was 25 years old. I don't buy cars to store them for someone else.
This has been an interesting discussion, and I'd expect the opinions would be as diverse as all the individual FD owner's out there, and I think these opinions typically will reflect the context of what kind of condition they acquired their FD in - i.e., was it purchased new from Mazda, purchased a used but 100% stock & well cared for/maintained FD, stock but neglected FD, or was it a modified FD? (mods can span the spectrum from minor reliability/reversible cosmetic mods to an extremely modified single turbo FD, with all kinds of variables regarding the mods themselves and the quality of workmanship, etc...). The other big factor IMHO is the individual owner's abilities to competently work on the car themselves, or to bankroll a shop that can do the work for them.
Seems like there are two dominant schools of thought here that I'll categorize as follows: "Keep it stock/retain the twins because I love the FD driving/ownership experience as-is and don't want to ruin its resale/collector value" and "Modify it to my personal standards to maximize my enjoyment of the FD driving/ownership experience".
Personally I'm in the "modify it to my standards" category today for reasons I'll explain shortly, but if the same question were asked of me in 1993, I'd be among the "keep it stock" gang. My 1st rotary was an '85 GSL-SE, that was my daily driver for about 9 years until it got totaled by an inattentive SUV driver in '93 after about 170K miles of driving the snot out of it. Though I learned a lot about rotaries from the FB, I didn't modify it at all - I just meticulously maintained it, as it was fun to drive as-is and I didn't see any reason to modify it. So with the FB gone, and the FD's just being introduced, I treated myself to a new '93 FD. It was a VR on black leather manual trans Touring model. Shortly after buying that FD, ex wife was pregnant with son #1 was on the way, so I sold it to get a tolerable family car ('94 Honda Accord EX w/5sp manual) and only got to keep the FD as my daily for just under a year, and like my FB, I kept it stock & meticulously maintained it. Back then, I recall that the stock FD driving experience was an absolute blast that would always put a s**t eating grin on my face, and I felt there was no reason to mess with it. And I've been itching to get another one ever since!
Fast forward to about 1998~1999, I was getting the bug to pick up another rotary rocket as a fun 2nd car, but by then I had 3 kids, so budget was a consideration. FDs were still a bit pricey for the better low mile examples that were out there, and good FBs were getting pretty hard to find by then. But FCs were still relatively plentiful, and I found my '89T2 in PA. It needed paint, and the leather seats had the usual wear, but it was an otherwise solid S5T2 with no other issues - everything worked, it had about 88K miles on it, and I got it dirt cheap. Just a few months after I purchased the FC, the stock & unmolested motor popped a rear apex seal under light boost on a hot day.... which started my lengthy education on the intricacies of keeping a turbo rotary engine happy & healthy! Over the years, as my skills & competence to work on these cars grew, I fully restored the FC to a "stock+reliability mods" configuration, but I felt the driving experience could still be improved upon with a bit more power and some suspension upgrades. Fast forward to today and I still have that FC, and in its current resto-mod form which I consider a "done" project, it puts down between 350~380RWHP (trim switch dependent) with the motor & supporting fuel/engine management mods that I built for it in 2017.
Even though my FC has been lots of fun to drive, and I got it to the point where it's reliable enough to press into daily driver duty if I really had to, I still had the itch to get myself back in an FD. So this time around (2019), with stock unmolested FD prices going thru the stratosphere, I became more open minded towards purchasing a modified FD as a starting point for building 'my perfect FD". For me, that means it will meet the following criteria when complete:
1. Modern single turbo tuned for no more than 400~425RWHP.
2. Modern engine management system with all the current engine protection features (self protection = reliability), support for DBW throttle, OMP, CAN instrumentation, etc..
3. Enabled by of #2 above, wide range of boost control that allows me to tailor the engine's RWHP from the low 300's all the to the max ~400 mark.
4. Civilized driving experience (I'm old) - No obnoxiously loud exhaust, fully functional AC system, sound insulation & interior cabin restoration work to improve NVH & squelch rattles.
5. No open dump tube waste gates - either IWG, or do the necessary fabication to recirculate the EWG's into the down pipe. (see above - I'm old)
6. Stock FD bodywork, with some tasteful Mazda OEM body bits added (e.g., '99 spec rear spoiler).
7. Restored stock looking interior, with tasteful & functional upgrades (e.g., touch screen 2DIN audio system), minimal added gauges (single CAN gauge tells me all I need to know)
8. Suspension upgrades selected to result in great handling on the twisty roads & track, but a compliant ride that doesn't beat the crap out of me driving around town on bumpy roads.
The FD I ended up buying in 2019 checked off many of the boxes I needed to enable me to build an FD to the above criteria, and at this point, I still need to do dyno tuning, but the ingredients are all there now to get me from items #1 thru #6. Still working on #7, and haven't started on #8, though the current suspension, wheels & tires are fine for now. You can check out where I'm at in my build thread here - https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...oject-1149941/
Honestly, this is a mute point IMO. Very few people buy a car trying to subconsciously keep in mind what it'll be worth when it comes time to sell it because, much like a marriage, you go into it thinking it'll last for life. I do not knock the people who keep their cars stock, that your purgative and I respect it. However, I built this car with the vision of what I believe the car should be for me and I'm tired of the "iT'lL bE wOrTh mOrE iF yOu dIdN't mOdIfY it"...OF COURSE IT WILL! That point has been beat to death.
I'm not under any delusion that my car will ever go for giant money, and I'm definitely not storing it for someone else. It's literally doubled in value over the last 6 or seven years though....****, I bought my FD in 2005 for 6 grand. Now I'm afraid to take it to the track, which why I bought it in the 1st place. .
To each his own, but I won't be trying to turn my car into a Red Sun any time soon. I'm no mechanic, and for someone like me me it's getting expensive to tune a rotary in 2022 anyway.
Like I mentioned in a different discussion, we recently bought an ND Miata to play with at the track, and holy ****, parts are available and cheap. For instance, there are over a dozen choices for sway bars, and Edelbrock has a supercharger kit for the ND. The new Toyota looks even better.
i remember when my FD friends would go to the track, and the most exciting thing for them was comparing how much they overheated. i mean they were really excited, but if you take a step back...
it’s pretty amusing that it’s being treated like a new or unique subject when it’s been beat to death ad nauseum, but the most amusing part is how quick some people are and the post lengths they go to beating on it all over again like they’re inventing the wheel for the first time …
it’s pretty amusing that it’s being treated like a new or unique subject when it’s been beat to death ad nauseum, but the most amusing part is how quick some people are and the post lengths they go to beating on it all over again like they’re inventing the wheel for the first time …
I'm not under any delusion that my car will ever go for giant money, and I'm definitely not storing it for someone else. It's literally doubled in value over the last 6 or seven years though....****, I bought my FD in 2005 for 6 grand. Now I'm afraid to take it to the track, which why I bought it in the 1st place. .
To each his own, but I won't be trying to turn my car into a Red Sun any time soon. I'm no mechanic, and for someone like me me it's getting expensive to tune a rotary in 2022 anyway.
Like I mentioned in a different discussion, we recently bought an ND Miata to play with at the track, and holy ****, parts are available and cheap. For instance, there are over a dozen choices for sway bars, and Edelbrock has a supercharger kit for the ND. The new Toyota looks even better.
I have been upgrading many parts on my Fd so I can hit the track but also be steerable. The car is so clean it is tough for me to put it on the track but I have been building it as a multi purpose car. The car will not be a track car but I do want to drive it at 80 percent t of my driving ability on the track a few times. For now I also bought an 03 miata to thrash at the track at a low cost. Once the Fd has the brakes to handle the track it will be ton the track for me to enjoy. I totally understand your view.
This has been an interesting discussion, and I'd expect the opinions would be as diverse as all the individual FD owner's out there, and I think these opinions typically will reflect the context of what kind of condition they acquired their FD in - i.e., was it purchased new from Mazda, purchased a used but 100% stock & well cared for/maintained FD, stock but neglected FD, or was it a modified FD? (mods can span the spectrum from minor reliability/reversible cosmetic mods to an extremely modified single turbo FD, with all kinds of variables regarding the mods themselves and the quality of workmanship, etc...). The other big factor IMHO is the individual owner's abilities to competently work on the car themselves, or to bankroll a shop that can do the work for them.
Seems like there are two dominant schools of thought here that I'll categorize as follows: "Keep it stock/retain the twins because I love the FD driving/ownership experience as-is and don't want to ruin its resale/collector value" and "Modify it to my personal standards to maximize my enjoyment of the FD driving/ownership experience".
Personally I'm in the "modify it to my standards" category today for reasons I'll explain shortly, but if the same question were asked of me in 1993, I'd be among the "keep it stock" gang. My 1st rotary was an '85 GSL-SE, that was my daily driver for about 9 years until it got totaled by an inattentive SUV driver in '93 after about 170K miles of driving the snot out of it. Though I learned a lot about rotaries from the FB, I didn't modify it at all - I just meticulously maintained it, as it was fun to drive as-is and I didn't see any reason to modify it. So with the FB gone, and the FD's just being introduced, I treated myself to a new '93 FD. It was a VR on black leather manual trans Touring model. Shortly after buying that FD, ex wife was pregnant with son #1 was on the way, so I sold it to get a tolerable family car ('94 Honda Accord EX w/5sp manual) and only got to keep the FD as my daily for just under a year, and like my FB, I kept it stock & meticulously maintained it. Back then, I recall that the stock FD driving experience was an absolute blast that would always put a s**t eating grin on my face, and I felt there was no reason to mess with it. And I've been itching to get another one ever since!
Fast forward to about 1998~1999, I was getting the bug to pick up another rotary rocket as a fun 2nd car, but by then I had 3 kids, so budget was a consideration. FDs were still a bit pricey for the better low mile examples that were out there, and good FBs were getting pretty hard to find by then. But FCs were still relatively plentiful, and I found my '89T2 in PA. It needed paint, and the leather seats had the usual wear, but it was an otherwise solid S5T2 with no other issues - everything worked, it had about 88K miles on it, and I got it dirt cheap. Just a few months after I purchased the FC, the stock & unmolested motor popped a rear apex seal under light boost on a hot day.... which started my lengthy education on the intricacies of keeping a turbo rotary engine happy & healthy! Over the years, as my skills & competence to work on these cars grew, I fully restored the FC to a "stock+reliability mods" configuration, but I felt the driving experience could still be improved upon with a bit more power and some suspension upgrades. Fast forward to today and I still have that FC, and in its current resto-mod form which I consider a "done" project, it puts down between 350~380RWHP (trim switch dependent) with the motor & supporting fuel/engine management mods that I built for it in 2017.
Even though my FC has been lots of fun to drive, and I got it to the point where it's reliable enough to press into daily driver duty if I really had to, I still had the itch to get myself back in an FD. So this time around (2019), with stock unmolested FD prices going thru the stratosphere, I became more open minded towards purchasing a modified FD as a starting point for building 'my perfect FD". For me, that means it will meet the following criteria when complete:
1. Modern single turbo tuned for no more than 400~425RWHP.
2. Modern engine management system with all the current engine protection features (self protection = reliability), support for DBW throttle, OMP, CAN instrumentation, etc..
3. Enabled by of #2 above, wide range of boost control that allows me to tailor the engine's RWHP from the low 300's all the to the max ~400 mark.
4. Civilized driving experience (I'm old) - No obnoxiously loud exhaust, fully functional AC system, sound insulation & interior cabin restoration work to improve NVH & squelch rattles.
5. No open dump tube waste gates - either IWG, or do the necessary fabication to recirculate the EWG's into the down pipe. (see above - I'm old)
6. Stock FD bodywork, with some tasteful Mazda OEM body bits added (e.g., '99 spec rear spoiler).
7. Restored stock looking interior, with tasteful & functional upgrades (e.g., touch screen 2DIN audio system), minimal added gauges (single CAN gauge tells me all I need to know)
8. Suspension upgrades selected to result in great handling on the twisty roads & track, but a compliant ride that doesn't beat the crap out of me driving around town on bumpy roads.
The FD I ended up buying in 2019 checked off many of the boxes I needed to enable me to build an FD to the above criteria, and at this point, I still need to do dyno tuning, but the ingredients are all there now to get me from items #1 thru #6. Still working on #7, and haven't started on #8, though the current suspension, wheels & tires are fine for now. You can check out where I'm at in my build thread here - https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...oject-1149941/
Every Fd owner has a story. I have been following your build for a while and it is a great build. Similar story with my car,family and the goals for my Fd. I also have gotten older and my build is similar to yours with a few subtle differences. The biggest difference is that I have two very loud waste gates. I eventually would like to get an iwg 8374 but I have other priorities at this point. Love your build. Feel free to check my build to see how similar the stories are and the car. The name of my build is 93 rx7 improving a great sports car.
Last edited by spintriangles; 01-04-22 at 09:10 AM.
1. Modern single turbo tuned for no more than 400~425RWHP.
2. Modern engine management system with all the current engine protection features (self protection = reliability), support for DBW throttle, OMP, CAN instrumentation, etc..
3. Enabled by of #2 above, wide range of boost control that allows me to tailor the engine's RWHP from the low 300's all the to the max ~400 mark.
4. Civilized driving experience (I'm old) - No obnoxiously loud exhaust, fully functional AC system, sound insulation & interior cabin restoration work to improve NVH & squelch rattles.
5. No open dump tube waste gates - either IWG, or do the necessary fabication to recirculate the EWG's into the down pipe. (see above - I'm old)
6. Stock FD bodywork, with some tasteful Mazda OEM body bits added (e.g., '99 spec rear spoiler).
7. Restored stock looking interior, with tasteful & functional upgrades (e.g., touch screen 2DIN audio system), minimal added gauges (single CAN gauge tells me all I need to know)
8. Suspension upgrades selected to result in great handling on the twisty roads & track, but a compliant ride that doesn't beat the crap out of me driving around town on bumpy roads.
the list for my FC looks really similar to that.... ive built plenty of race cars, and plenty of 100% stock cars, but modified street car is hard. with the stock car we have the FSM and the parts catalog and it must be a certain way, and with the race car it just needs to be faster. Dumb street car just needs to be fun, which is kind of a subjective thing...
1-3 get condensed to about 280-300rwhp. incidentally the original setup was huge fun, stock FC turbo running 13psi, it would got from 5psi at 2500rpm to 13psi by 3200rpm, which happened a lot because that is where you drive. car was slow, but it was hilariously fun. the bigger turbo feels more natural and its better, but not as fun. for me the shape of the power curve has more to do with fun than the amount
4, same, well minus the AC
5. we will see if i'm mature enough to handle an open WG, they make me laugh, and i like to laugh, so its open a lot
6. yep, stock with some neat wheels, and maybe a neat wing. there is a body kit i would love, but shipping it here would be nearly impossible
7. same. debating on the stereo
8. yep! i'm in the ballpark. for mine there are a couple of other cars i've driven that felt right and i'm after that.
it’s pretty amusing that it’s being treated like a new or unique subject when it’s been beat to death ad nauseum, but the most amusing part is how quick some people are and the post lengths they go to beating on it all over again like they’re inventing the wheel for the first time …
.
Well, this is a discussion forum after all.
Nothing wrong with discussing topics of interest and reflecting upon past decisions. Not reinventing the wheel but people making decisions that are new to them and seeking input from others with experience.
I enjoy it when old threads are brought back to be reviewed. Over the years tech changes and there for opinions change. For example, when I switched to from twins to single back in the 2000, I felt a made a big mistake. I was young and was told by some drag race shop that going single was better. My near stock Fd, was hacked up to install a isuzu fmic with a super laggy big single turbo. I drove the car and was immediately disappointed. The turbo lag was driving crazy. Fast forward to today. My turbo is no where near as laggy as my old turbo and the vmount allowed me to return some of the things that were removed to put the fmic. Now the car makes good power and although it does not boost as fast as the twins , he power delivery is great and the lag is minimal. Back in the year 2000 I would have recommended no one to go single. Fast forward to today and I would say change the twins as soon as they give up.
Well, this is a discussion forum after all.
Nothing wrong with discussing topics of interest and reflecting upon past decisions. Not reinventing the wheel but people making decisions that are new to them and seeking input from others with experience.
Exactly. Personally, I thought it was an excellent question from the OP. Because if one does a search regarding this topic they will see the consensus change as technology evolves and/or as the forum members mature/have a change in priorities. For instance, my 2005 self would be all over the single turbo setup I have now. A 400 RWHP, fire breathing, rotary screaming rocket. While my 2022 self would be quite content with what I had at one point: Stock sequential twins @12 psi, M2 CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, RB catback, controlled via a PFC.
Don't get me wrong I love the power my car has and IMO it is finally as fast as it looks. But as I have gotten older, I don't have the want to be "that fast". However with that said, I'm still in the mindset that 100% FDs are quite slow and underwhelming hence my preferred mod list.
Any particular reason you chose the 7670 over the 8374?
Currently have a GT35 and deciding to continue with it or go to a newer turbo? Hoping for the 350-400 rwhp range.
And completely agree @Montego that perspectives do change as we age. A quiet car suddenly becomes more of a goal.
I built an 8374 setup on another personal FD 4 years ago. Ended up making 470rwhp at 22psi with stock ports and it was a fun setup. Th3 8374 is the clear choice for any 2 rotor FD owner wanting between 4-500rwhp. I am yet to see any other turbo setup that can make a legitimate case for itself. The point of the 7670 was to run it on stock ecu and fuel which I now know works perfectly. I was curious how close to sequential response it would be. At 12lbs on a pettit ecu it is fun, but lands somewhere between stock sequential and non-sequential. There is no way to replicate the primary turbo response with a single setup, but the 7670 is still very responsive, much more so than non-sequential or even the old school RX6B I ran a decade ago on a pettit ecu. I removed a set of non-sequential stock twins also running 12-13lbs and the top end power at that boost range from the 7670 is definitely a little lower than the stock twins. I need to do some testing with a wideband but I believe with raised fuel pressure and water/meth I can likely run 14-15lbs on the 7670 on the stock/pettit ecu fairly safely and have a car that would run somewhere in the high 11s which would be a lot of fun for a simple setup. I believe it will make 310-330rwhp at that boost level but I wont know for sure until I find out. The other issue will be controlling boost, the IWG setup has been a little bit of a PITA and inconsistent which I assume is related to back pressure. I love doing stuff with the stock ecu or power fc and stock fuel others believe are not possible. Mostly because I am yet to drive any 400+rwhp FD that idled and had driveability anything close to stock. I'm well past the age of stopping at a red light and having a 12-1400 rpm idle or idle surging etc.
@djseven I think the EFR7670 is the clear choice for mimicking the stock twins while simplifying the entire system. It would probably be my route if my twins ever died out on me.
Turblown had said you could upgrade the secondary's and a clutch and be pretty set with a very stock like car pushing around 350-370 rwhp on about 15psi running 93 pump.
Turblown had said you could upgrade the secondary's and a clutch and be pretty set with a very stock like car pushing around 350-370 rwhp on about 15psi running 93 pump.
That is ultimately the plan. I will upgrade my secondaries and try to push the turbo to 18-20lbs just to see the results. Once I do that, this setup will likely get transported into my 95 chaste white car and I have everything I need to build a semi-pp 9180 setup for my 94 R2. In theory it may see a road coarse one day when my kids are grown and I'm not at multiple sporting events every weekend of the year besides Thanksgiving and Xmas.
IMHO that's the gold standard for a sequential twin car and hard data.
Also shows that a Walbro fuel pump and stock injectors will get you there but you'll be at the end of what those injectors can do.
I have 1300cc secondaries that I bought a million years ago, done by RC Engineering. They've been awesome, smooth and no problems. I have heard of people having problems with them but it's such a nice way to get extra fuel and overhead without breaking the bank on injectors, rails, regulators, hoses, etc. etc. etc.
Stock Turbos with actuators and coolant/oil lines-31lbs 11ounces
Stock Turbo Manifold-12lbs 7ounces
Stock Turbo Control Actuator with hardlines-2lbs 7ounces
Rats Nest with fuel and coolant hard lines-4lbs 3ounces
Stock Y-Pipe with ABV/CRV and hoses/clamps-3lbs 10ounces
Stock Secondary Intake Pipe-1lb 11ounces
Pressure and Vacuum Chambers-15ounces combined Total weight of 57lbs
EFR 9180-27lbs 2ounces
HKS Cast Manifold without wastegate-12lbs 15ounces
Turblown Cast Manifold-6lbs 10 ounces
Tial 44mm wastegate-3lbs
Wastegate Dump Pipe-1lb 3ounces
Turbo Blanket-2lbs Total weight 46lbs 4ounces with HKS Cast Manifold and 39lbs 15ounces with turblown manifold
I couldn't find any of my tubular manifolds due to us being in the process of moving, but I imagine that's another 2 lbs of savings vs the turblown manifold. Total savings going from Sequential Stock Twins to a typical single setup is going to be somewhere between a 12-20lb savings, that is it.
Emissions savings:
Stock Automatic Airpump(larger than manual)-11lbs 7 ounces
Stock Split bypass hard lines-14 ounces
Air Control Valve and EGR-1lb
Hardline to stock catalytic converter-1lb 4ounces Total engine bay weight savings of 14lbs 9ounces
I've got more info coming but I didn't have the stock IC/duct on hand to weigh but the savings are going to be less when you factor in larger IC, radiator, oil catch can, fuel pressure regulator and steel braided hoses. I imagine the total savings from the engine bay is going to be less than 25lbs for a full single turbo conversion with emissions deleted.
There is a box full of stock parts on my garage floor that would beg to differ; that thing weighs in the light heavyweight boxing class. I'd be willing to bet my car is AT LEAST 100 lbs lighter than stock from going single. Mind you, I also got rid of my ABS pump, AC system, and the OEM engine harness in favor for a harness from Chris Ludwig, but I digress. The FD is by no means a heavy car in stock form, and I drove my car for at least a year with a hacked up non-sequential setup before going single, but I am certain my car, with a full stock interior outside of a couple gauges and a Momo steering wheel, single turbo, coil overs and 18in wheels, would weigh in lighter than my car before I went single.
I've got just about all the parts you mentioned I can weigh them as well if you like and post the photos. AC system likely cut 17-20lbs if you removed engine bay components only, another 10lbs if you removed evaporator under dash as well. Wiring harness you might have saved 3-4 lbs and the ABS pump and ABS Computers likely another 12-15lbs. I love weight reduction and do it to any FD I keep long term but the savings are minimal on these cars until you get extreme. Carbon fiber doors and lexan, Carbon fiber seats, titanium exhuast, carbon hatch with lexan are all the big savers but you then need a full cage which offsets the majority of those savings.
The biggest weight savings on the car without going crazy is the stock exhaust system. Precat, main cat, and cat-back weigh a TON. I think the stock cat-back from memory is 45 pounds or something.
After that removing weight really gets into removing features (AC, PS) or going radical and gutting the car.
But, this goes to show the weight difference twins to single really isn't that substantial. It's not nothing, but it's not 100 pounds or something you would really feel.
01-03-22, 12:34 PM
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