Not getting a straight forward answer on other pages and im not looking for a general consensus lol but if someone could answer in this format it would be highly appreciated!

Brand:
Viscosity xW-x ex. 1w-1
Synthetic or no
How much of the oil to put into the car

Thanks!

 

I've been using Castrol GTX 20W50. The Fd takes 3.5-3.6L of oil.

 

Thank you i live in vernon new jersey pretty cold like lowest avg. temperature in winter is 5 and summer can get in the high 90's so what oil should i use in the summer and what for winter i just dont wanna blow my engine lol

 

I use 10W40 Amsoil. I don't drive in winter. Maybe until November if that

 

If I were in your case, I'd do 10w30 winter time, and 20w50 summer time (although you still can use 10w30 in summer). Also if there is a functioning OMP I'd use mineral oil rather than synthetic.
Doing frequent oil changes is more important than selecting the brand or type, though.

 

ok so what if i ran royal purple 10w40 in the summer is that ok?

 

I'm you're in Vernon NJ I recommend you check out IRPerformance's new location in Keansburg, about 75 miles south of you. Ihor is a rotary expert and can recommend the proper oil and just about everything else for an FD too

IRPerformance | 155 Carr Ave, Keansburg, NJ 07734 Tel. (732) 662-1794

I'm a huge proponent of Idemitsu synthetic oil, designed specifically for the rotary.

run 20w50 in the summer, 10w30 in the winter.

Rotary Performance out in Garland TX sells and ships it, very competitive prices too. Call them up at 973 530 3335 and speak to Mary to order :icon__tup:

93-95 ? Tagged "Oils" ? Rotary Performance

 

That is what I run all year. Manual says 10W30. Lots of people run 20W50 in summer time as well.

 

Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. It's the best at holding up to the fuel dilution I've found. Thin enough when cold for good startup flow and thick enough when hot to handle extended track sessions. Also cheap and widely available.

No matter what oil you run, keeping the change intervals short is most important. I don't care if the oil is $30/quart super-secret stuff, by the time it's soaked down with gas it won't be nearly as good as brand new walmart special no-name stuff.

 

That is correct, manual says 10W30 & 5W30 (if I remember correctly) depending on weather. There is a sticker under the hood as well that shows the type of oil for everything on the car (transmission, differential, engine, etc...). I personally am using Royal Purple 10W30 and for pre-mix I am using Valvoline. I am still on the factory oil metering pump, but I do not trust 100% a system that is 23 years old, so I am using .5 onze pre-mix.

As Godfella said, if you can pay a visit to Ihor I say go ahead and do it. Those two guys (Ihor & Godfella) are very well known in the rotary community and you can trust what they say or recommend with your eyes closed.

 

I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic: 10W30 in the summer, 5W30 in the winter like the previous owner of my FD.

I'd get Idemitsu Racing oil if it was available in my area.

 

Thanks for all the responses but should i be trusting a 23 year old oil pump that sat for 16 years? if not what should i do about it i mean im getting oil pressure so is the pump good?

I cant tell you exactly what im getting im running no oil cooler at the momment it was torn off by someone so i have it bypassed its just a straight flow system at the momment for testing purpose NOT DRIVING ANYWHERE lol but is a little pressure enough to say the oil pump is good?

 

It's a mechanical pump and is probably fine. Not easily replaced.

what kind of pressure are you seeing? the OEM gauge tends to be a bit dodgy as the Mateys over in Oz say

 

Valvoline VR1 racing oil 20w-50.
Autozone, Pepboys, Oreilys carry it and its surprisingly inexpensive.

 

The OMP is a fairly hearty pump. When it fails, you'll know. It kicks out a CEL and the car goes into limp mode IIRC. The lines and nozzles get a little sketchy at high mileage (I snapped one removing it on a 62k motor), but for about $100 you can get new nozzles and lines OEM (maybe less). I run 20w50 Castrol GTX in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. I change it every 2500 miles.

Matt

 

^pretty sure he's referring to the main oil pump, or perhaps isn't aware there are two oil pumps on the car.

If the OMP goes bad, not great news and repair/replace in short order. Engine will survive in the short term. The main oil pump on the other hand.......

 

^ oh yes.

There is no feedback to the ECU if the engine oil pump fails. The only way to diagnose its failure really is with a low/no oil pressure indication and preferably with an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.

Matt

 

If it's the OMP and you're on the stock ECU, you'd know if somethings wrong. As Matt mentioned, it will generate at least one of three possible codes and all three cause limp mode.
If it's engine oil pump you mean and you're not seeing good indicated pressure, clean the spade connector to the oil pressure sender with fresh oil ( you choose the brand in proper viscosity) and see what you get. The senders are dodgy but so is that connection especially at idle if it's dirty. Pumps don't go bad very often afaik.
And asking what brand of oil here is like asking what the best breakfast cereal is. Everyone has opinions and they're all valid. I like Wheaties.

 

I use idemitsu racing oil because I want that extra protection when I'm autocrossing in the high heat and humidity of Central Florida