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I passed NJ emissions today. WOOHOO, legal until 2017. Now where did I put that PFC.....
Just DLed the results. Wow, I barely made it. My car is stock except for the exhaust mods. DP, mid-pipe with HF cat, Turbo Tuf cat back, all with under 2k mi on them.
Primary Emission Test Performed: TSI - PASS
Mode: IDLE - PASS
GAS READING STANDARD
HC ppm 218 220
CO% 0.86 1.20
CO2% 14.7
O2% 0.0
Mode: HIGH IDLE - PASS
GAS READING STANDARD
HC ppm 68 220
CO% 0.33 1.20
CO2% 12.1
O2% 3.9
I hit a curb hard turning right on a uturn. So i thought i would check the front alignment. The side I hit was still in spec and the other side was out a little. But the rear wheels were both way out of alignment.
Now the car drives like it was new. What a differance rear alignment.
Bought new tires. While removing the wheels to get them mounted a wheel stud broke on the left rear. Just finished replacing all five studs...along with the requisite wheel bearing. No walk in the park, but easier than I thought.
Rear toe-link bushings replaced, purple poly
Rear inner LCA bushings, Mazda
SEM trim paint, pass side plastic, cneter console and HVAC panel
removed crapped out factory BOSE head unit
Installed used PFC ECM and commander. Good idle and drivability so far after about 25 miles.
Was supposed to install an oil pan brace but I was sent an FC brace and didn't realize it until it was too late to get the right one.
My clutch master cylinder failed, so I put in a new master, slave, and braided clutch line. Apparently my system is now really strong, because my clutch fork decided to break while I was pumping the clutch pedal to bleed the system. I couldn't figure out why I had pressure, but little travel in the pedal. I opened up the inspection cover and one end of the fork fell out
My clutch system was replaced about eight years ago, but I've been busy with school and life, so there isn't a lot of miles on it. Still enough to be too much for an old fork though. It just sucks being spring time and it's one thing failing after another that's keeping my car off of the road. That's how it goes some times!
Car wouldn't start. Switch top and bottom plug wires (closest to firewall), start car. Watch excess gas burn away and let warm up, turn off car. Place plug wires at proper position. This trick never fails me
Was not today..but over the last couple of weeks I have;
removed the twins
removed air pump
removed all solenoids / vacuum lines
installed block off plates
made / installed rear oil return block off plate
installed FFE secondary rail & ID2000 injectors / fuelab FPR
removed FPD and tapped primary rial for 1/4" BSPT, installed 1/4" BSPT to hose tail right angle fitting.
replaced all fuel lines from firewall forward
installed new OMP vacuum lines
installed walbro 400lph pump
rewired fuel system / installed relay
removed loads of other random stuff
Was not today..but over the last couple of weeks I have;
removed the twins
removed air pump
removed all solenoids / vacuum lines
installed block off plates
made / installed rear oil return block off plate
installed FFE secondary rail & ID2000 injectors / fuelab FPR
removed FPD and tapped primary rial for 1/4" BSPT, installed 1/4" BSPT to hose tail right angle fitting.
replaced all fuel lines from firewall forward
installed new OMP vacuum lines
installed walbro 400lph pump
rewired fuel system / installed relay
removed loads of other random stuff
Went to get my '72 BMW 2002 out of storage to prep for the Swap n Show, but it wouldn't start. Walked over to the FD, hooked up a battery booster, and it fired up for the first time in a year. Heck yeah, I drove it home. Does it seem odd that my FD is the most reliable car I own?
You own a 2002 and an FD? You are a glutton for punishment.
You own a 2002 and an FD? You are a glutton for punishment.
A 2002, an FD, an FC, and an FB. I'm completely stupid. The '02 is the only fully operational vehicle at the moment. I have a long summer of "let's see if I can get an RX-7 (pick any one of three) running" ahead of me.
Alignment
time to diagnose a starter/ignition switch problem.
