Stainless steel OMP lines
#1
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Stainless steel OMP lines
Attached is an image of how I want to route the stainless steel braided OMP lines. Can I do that? I’m assuming at the bottom of the line is the OMP pump and the top is where the oil injectors are. This would be easier rather than routing it through the side etc? My engine is still in the car and I have the fuel rails off
also thinking of buying these lines: https://rotaryperformance.com/products/steel-braided-oil-metering-line-set
is rotary performance good?
also thinking of buying these lines: https://rotaryperformance.com/products/steel-braided-oil-metering-line-set
is rotary performance good?
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Sgtblue (09-28-23)
#3
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Re: your routing question….
I personally would not. The stainless lines are probably robust enough, and I get why you wouldn’t be enthusiastic about routing them along the front.
Thinking out loud…. First you’ll have a lot of excess line with the much shorter route. But the biggest worry is that the oil moves thru all that line pretty slow, and be exposed to a lot of heat along the way on your alternative route. And shutting down hot the oil flow would stop altogether and just sit there cooking. Coking and eventual plugging-up would be a concern. You could probably wrap them in some sort of insulation but that might look kind of cobbled to me. I’d probably just bite the bullet and take a more factory route.
If you have the fuel rails off it seems like you’re half-way there already…
I personally would not. The stainless lines are probably robust enough, and I get why you wouldn’t be enthusiastic about routing them along the front.
Thinking out loud…. First you’ll have a lot of excess line with the much shorter route. But the biggest worry is that the oil moves thru all that line pretty slow, and be exposed to a lot of heat along the way on your alternative route. And shutting down hot the oil flow would stop altogether and just sit there cooking. Coking and eventual plugging-up would be a concern. You could probably wrap them in some sort of insulation but that might look kind of cobbled to me. I’d probably just bite the bullet and take a more factory route.
If you have the fuel rails off it seems like you’re half-way there already…
Last edited by Sgtblue; 09-28-23 at 01:47 PM.
#4
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Don't waste your time or money on those lines. Get new stock lines.
The stock lines have proven to last 100,000 miles easy. They are also exact form fit so they route perfectly.
The stainless braided lines are VERY hard to route properly and that braided hose is rough and can wear holes in wiring and other parts. There is ZERO reason to run them.
Dale
The stock lines have proven to last 100,000 miles easy. They are also exact form fit so they route perfectly.
The stainless braided lines are VERY hard to route properly and that braided hose is rough and can wear holes in wiring and other parts. There is ZERO reason to run them.
Dale
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j9fd3s (09-29-23)
#5
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Of course not everyone agrees with that. I like mine and, at least with the engine out of the car, they took maybe 20 minutes to install. And I have peace of mind they won’t shatter after a few thousand miles should they be disturbed. But I agree, since they’re not plastic they would chaff things if some care isn’t taken. You might note in one of the above pics a section of old hose was used between the line and the top of a housing.
Regardless, I wouldn’t route them over the turbos.
Regardless, I wouldn’t route them over the turbos.
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Don't waste your time or money on those lines. Get new stock lines.
The stock lines have proven to last 100,000 miles easy. They are also exact form fit so they route perfectly.
The stainless braided lines are VERY hard to route properly and that braided hose is rough and can wear holes in wiring and other parts. There is ZERO reason to run them.
Dale
The stock lines have proven to last 100,000 miles easy. They are also exact form fit so they route perfectly.
The stainless braided lines are VERY hard to route properly and that braided hose is rough and can wear holes in wiring and other parts. There is ZERO reason to run them.
Dale
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DaleClark (09-29-23)
#7
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Not so…as far as I can tell. N3A1-14-660 and N3A1-14-670 (front and rear housing) are about $50 each at Mazdatrix. And last I looked good quality Stainless lines are about $100 a set (Front and rear). But Ray Crowe might be a little less. But if OEM really is cheaper than maybe they just know what their part is worth…IMO.
And “ZERO reasons”? I mentioned more than one. If DC doesn’t like them OK. But I’d venture to say that among long time owners, there’s probably at least as many running stainless (or Teflon version) as there are still running OEM. Maybe the material/desighn was ok for na models, but not so much once turbo heat was added. Like OEM vac lines they’re usually fine as long as they’re undisturbed. But if you’re in there *****-deep like the OP and have the old out it’s a no brainer…IMO. Mine have been problem free for about 16 or 17 years.
The OP probably already bought a set of stainless anyway.
And “ZERO reasons”? I mentioned more than one. If DC doesn’t like them OK. But I’d venture to say that among long time owners, there’s probably at least as many running stainless (or Teflon version) as there are still running OEM. Maybe the material/desighn was ok for na models, but not so much once turbo heat was added. Like OEM vac lines they’re usually fine as long as they’re undisturbed. But if you’re in there *****-deep like the OP and have the old out it’s a no brainer…IMO. Mine have been problem free for about 16 or 17 years.
The OP probably already bought a set of stainless anyway.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-03-23 at 08:44 AM.
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