AZ fd

SO the car is cranking strongly, I have been pulling the fuel pump fuse and the spark plugs to clear the engine before start up. I use 20w-50 because I live in an area that sees over 95 degrees Fahrenheit. I am not getting a code for CAS and both plugs are clipped in all the way as well as in the correct order with grey clip on top . I will try to check TPS. I have tested the spark by holding the spark plug(connected to the wire) near metal and saw I have spark on all four, is there a better way to do this?

FDAUTO

iTrader: (4)

the white plug goes on top, grey on the bottom

AZ fd

sorry, that is what I meant, had to look at the car and check

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

During your process was the ecu removed, unplugged, replugged? Was the harness pulled through the fire wall, or did someone share the firewall opening with other wires (such as after market gauges).

Harness could be damaged at the firewall.

Pins on the connectors to the ecu can get bent.

Are the circuit boards in the ecu clean. Not water damage or blown transistors or capacitors?

These things happen.

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

Back to square one with the OEM diagnostics? WOW what a shocker. I am so surprised it did not tell you exactly what is causing your issue....

AZ fd

I don't know why your being a dick, I am trying anything to figure this out, I have even done the things you said!

AZ fd

The ECU was removed, stored in my house. Everything seemed just like it was when I took it out, I did not see any damage on connectors or plugs.
I did remove harness from fire wall
I also did dual throttle delete as There was a broken solenoid that controlled it. I have filled/blocked the hole for the rod that the butterfly valves sit on, I am wondering if I need to tune/ adjust anything for it. I have looked it up and I couldn't find anything on it.

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

Rather than pulling the fuel pump fuse, there is another procedures that, I believe, cuts out the injectors. Some have said this is better than just pulling the fuel pump fuse.

90 is fairly low compression. I don't know how it relates to the engine being cold or not.

The early USDM manuals quote 85 psi as the lower acceptable limit. This may be a printer error.

Every other manual says 100 psi at 250 rpm at sea-level.

AZ fd

I would expect compression to greaten with thermal expansion, as well as the need for fresh seals to seat in which would cause higher compression. I Had someone crank the car( gas pedal to the ground) while I was under it with plugs out, there is only a mist spraying but no liquid leaking out of the plug holes

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

i was not referring to you actually but ok

as a summary the oem diagnostics suck as i have mentioned above.

also compression is perfectly fine. The motor will break in . It hasnt even started yet

AZ fd

I just got it to run with oil in the spark plug holes and starting fluid, once running it wanted to die. after 45 seconds I started to see a lot of smoke coming from underneath the UIM as well as around the belt and pulley area. I felt the main pulley and it was hot after lest than 50 seconds of run time, I wonder if I did something wrong when putting on the bearings after bolting on the stationary gear or something with the thermal pellet. Is it normal that the belt slips when wrenching on the alternator pulley and will not move main pulley?

FDAUTO

iTrader: (4)

no...

take the belts off and spin the motor. it should be as smooth as it was when you rotated it after it was stacked. spin the accessories individually as well and make sure none of them are locked up

AZ fd

it is spinning fine, the other pulleys are too, and the end play was fine when I put the front cover was on as well, so it probably isn't that.

Here is the video of how close it is, https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QkHjLTV4nr0

Valkyrie

Try giving it a bit of throttle?
This always seems to work for me when it gets a bit flooded and sounds like your engine. Just add more air and compression.
Not too much, though. On and off.

Also, maybe absolutely sure that your big fat block ground wire is properly installed. A bad ground can cause all sorts of problems.

AZ fd

In the video I was off and on the throttle a little bit. By block ground do you mean the ground that bolts the metal piece of the rats nest or the ground under the a fuse box a few inches away from the power steering. Both of those I have checked and are good.

Valkyrie

The main engine ground, which (at least on my car) bolts onto the front iron (near where the AC compressor used to be).

Mine was loose when I bought the car, which made the engine sound like a lawnmower.

Try some starter fluid? You've already got the elbow off, anyway.

AZ fd

Both of these are tight and have a solid ground. I cant get the car running with just starting fluid

AZ fd

it looks like I need something here I can find a picture or remember what it is


To be clear trailing plugs have two blue lines on them, correct?

Valkyrie

I just want to see what it does when you use it.

AZ fd

What do you mean use it ?? starting fluid ?

Valkyrie

Yes. Also, how old is the gas in your tank?

AZ fd

I will make a video with start fluid. The gas is fresh as I emptied it out as well as the fuel lines , with no premix either, pure fresh fuel

AZ fd

WOW, it actually started this time with out oil in spark holes, The car sill wanted to die though . I didn't show in the video, but my coolant light and oil pressure light started

flashing which leads me to believe there is a problem with he ECU or wring. The buzzing noise is the air pump line detached from the exhaust as the previous owner

pugged exhaust for some reason, I know the car can run like this thought.

Valkyrie

I watched the video. This makes me think you are not getting enough fuel. Get someone to actually spray it directly in as you start the car.

What *exactly* is happening with your oil pressure and the coolant level light?

Are you getting oil pressure as you crank it? Is the needle moving? How does the low oil pressure light come on?

If you are getting oil pressure, open the throttle enough to keep it running as you long as you can, unless it's a crazy amount of throttle. Or does it just die after a few seconds no matter what?

Make sure that your coolant level sensor is actually covered in coolant and that the wire isn't broken. It's pretty easy to break. I had to replace them on both of my RX-7s...


Also, have you checked that you don't have a massive vacuum leak somewhere?

AZ fd

I have had someone spray it while I cranked and it didn't want to start. while it was running I notice the lights flashing, but I didn't check what the gauge was reading

before it died. The lights; coolant oil and battery where all flashing when running, when attempting to start the lights come on and stay on all solid/ not blinking. I am not

getting response from any gauge except for RMP. The car only runs when I am on throttle but can also die , MY coolant sensor has been replaced/ water it topped up to

cap. I haven't done a smoke test, but I have replaced almost all lines when reassembling. I will try to get it running and make a video of the gauges

tomorrow.