replacing brake rotors
06-24-23, 01:05 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
replacing brake rotors
We are going to replace the brake rotors, pads and lines.
The front rotors have 2 bolts bolting them onto the hub.
They are seized we cant get them out.
We can take it to a shop to see if they can get them loose or drill them out.
Looking for advise on to drill or not to drill.
The front rotors have 2 bolts bolting them onto the hub.
They are seized we cant get them out.
We can take it to a shop to see if they can get them loose or drill them out.
Looking for advise on to drill or not to drill.
06-24-23, 01:26 PM
#2
they're screws... not bolts(at least they better be lol). if you don't have an impact driver then you will drill the heads off. they serve no purpose other than to hold the rotor in place during install. you're not going to hurt anything by drilling them or even cutting them since you're replacing the rotor anyway. just don't hurt the wheel studs
06-24-23, 02:21 PM
#4
Try marinating the stubborn screws in PB Blaster, then hit them with an impact screwdriver - these are pretty inexpensive and will usually get the job done: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...ts/impact.html
If that fails, just drill the heads off. Usually once that's done, there will be enough of the screw left sticking out (after rotor is off) for you to get solid grip on it with a set of vice grips and unscrew it out. IIRC, the screws are M6x1.0 thread if you want to replace them. If you do, use a little anti-seize compound on the threads to make removal easier next time.
If that fails, just drill the heads off. Usually once that's done, there will be enough of the screw left sticking out (after rotor is off) for you to get solid grip on it with a set of vice grips and unscrew it out. IIRC, the screws are M6x1.0 thread if you want to replace them. If you do, use a little anti-seize compound on the threads to make removal easier next time.
06-24-23, 06:30 PM
#5
Rotary Freak
Never had to worry with anything beyond an impact driver with a good fitting bit. Without resorting to heat or drills, typically for anything else countersunk - screws, socket heads, etc, lube and a centrepunch with a reasonable weight hammer will usually get them moving even if the heads are turned out,
Screws I'm pretty certain are m8.
Screws I'm pretty certain are m8.
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Sgtblue (06-26-23)
06-26-23, 06:50 AM
#6
^ Agreed. Drilling would be my last resort. On the FD and others the impact driver and a couple wacks is all it’s ever taken. The screws are machine thread. And while not critical, they’re convenient when changing pads. If they go back on with a smidge of antiseize they’re never an issue again.
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DaleClark (06-26-23)
06-26-23, 10:19 AM
#7
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
100% impact driver like Pete linked above.
The screws are the larger sized Phillips head (P3?) so make sure you use the right bit in that impact driver. You HAVE to use the one you hammer, trying to chuck something in an electric impact driver or something is just gonna cause problems.
Also the rotors have holes you can thread a 12mm bolt into, that makes it super easy to pop the rotor off the hub.
Dale
The screws are the larger sized Phillips head (P3?) so make sure you use the right bit in that impact driver. You HAVE to use the one you hammer, trying to chuck something in an electric impact driver or something is just gonna cause problems.
Also the rotors have holes you can thread a 12mm bolt into, that makes it super easy to pop the rotor off the hub.
Dale
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