Reasonably reliable street driven track day FD - can it be done in 2019?
07-28-19, 03:51 PM
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Reasonably reliable street driven track day FD - can it be done in 2019?
An FD has always been on my short list and I'm contemplating what to build once my kids are a little older. My use case is a street car that gets driven for fun occasionally and to track days within 2 hours of home. Reasonably light with half cage, mild aero, and a focus on reliability with maybe up to 450whp, probably a good bit less on track most of the time would be my target. Currently driving a heavily modified S13 240SX for this purpose. I feel like I should probably pull the trigger soon if I'm going to build an RX7, as they get older and parts get hard to source. I see that the aftermarket is fairly robust. I have a few concerns though, in part from reading post from the likes of Fritz Flynn and Petrhahn and their various woes on track.
1. Fueling:
A. E85 can have issues with gummy buildup, and I'm sure you need a ton of it for a typical event with 80-100 minutes on track. Not available at the tracks I frequent, requires 10-15 mile drive to refuel or many jugs.
B. Water/methanol injection adds weight and complexity, with both fluid and electrical system added to the car.
2. Oiling: Some say delete OMP but you then need to disable decel fuel cut or you have no decel oiling. OMP seems to add some reliability issues of it's own with nozzles clogging, etc.
3. Trans: Looks like there are options here, OS Giken gears, maybe a CD009 Nissan swap (have this on my S13, good but heavy).
4. Turbos: Twins are a complicated mess. I'm a believer in the EFR goodness but IWG applications have boost creep, and EWG adds complexity, weight, and so much noise.
I've raised a lot of points here. Thoughts? Turns out I am not far at all from Howard Coleman's operation which could be a helpful point of engine build support. Otherwise flying blind though, with no local rotary shops that I'm aware of or friends in the area with rotaries.
1. Fueling:
A. E85 can have issues with gummy buildup, and I'm sure you need a ton of it for a typical event with 80-100 minutes on track. Not available at the tracks I frequent, requires 10-15 mile drive to refuel or many jugs.
B. Water/methanol injection adds weight and complexity, with both fluid and electrical system added to the car.
2. Oiling: Some say delete OMP but you then need to disable decel fuel cut or you have no decel oiling. OMP seems to add some reliability issues of it's own with nozzles clogging, etc.
3. Trans: Looks like there are options here, OS Giken gears, maybe a CD009 Nissan swap (have this on my S13, good but heavy).
4. Turbos: Twins are a complicated mess. I'm a believer in the EFR goodness but IWG applications have boost creep, and EWG adds complexity, weight, and so much noise.
I've raised a lot of points here. Thoughts? Turns out I am not far at all from Howard Coleman's operation which could be a helpful point of engine build support. Otherwise flying blind though, with no local rotary shops that I'm aware of or friends in the area with rotaries.
07-30-19, 01:00 PM
#2
Not to completely burst your bubble, but reliable track FD and 450whp are most likely mutually exclusive thoughts..haha. Sometimes I wonder if reliable track FD is a real thing at all or I'm chasing unicorns! I'd say 350-380whp should be a more realistic goal if you intend to not tear up drivetrain components on the regular.
Not all is lost though as a 350-380whp FD that's well setup and well driven will run with just about anything you come across at track days unless you're regularly running with Porsche Cup Cars, Vipers ACRs, and other extreme ends of the track car spectrum.
To touch on some of your questions:
#1: If you're not shooting for 450whp, you don't need e85. Problem solved! I'd stay away from e85 mostly because it's not available at any road course I've been to and you'll go through so much you'd need an aux tank in a pickup to keep you fueled up on a track weekend.
#2: Keep the OMP and don't over-complicate it. Use synthetic oil. People's fears here are over exaggerated especially for track use.
#3: Trans is a weakness especially with more power and tire. Cooling is a must as I've learned. You can do a swap or gearset but there's no perfect choice as all have compromises.
#4: Twins will work fine on track, but you will kill them with regularity. Singles aren't all strippers and rainbows either so choose wisely.
You're correct in looking at Fritz and Peter's threads for suggestions. I have one as well that's likely up your alley: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...ctive-1108119/
How many track events are you doing per year? What run group do you typically run? What tires do you intend to use? Those will all affect the reliability and build needed for your potential car. If you're using street tires and run 2-3 times per year in intermediate then a lot less is required than if you're running 7-8 events and slicks in the advanced group
Not all is lost though as a 350-380whp FD that's well setup and well driven will run with just about anything you come across at track days unless you're regularly running with Porsche Cup Cars, Vipers ACRs, and other extreme ends of the track car spectrum.
To touch on some of your questions:
#1: If you're not shooting for 450whp, you don't need e85. Problem solved! I'd stay away from e85 mostly because it's not available at any road course I've been to and you'll go through so much you'd need an aux tank in a pickup to keep you fueled up on a track weekend.
#2: Keep the OMP and don't over-complicate it. Use synthetic oil. People's fears here are over exaggerated especially for track use.
#3: Trans is a weakness especially with more power and tire. Cooling is a must as I've learned. You can do a swap or gearset but there's no perfect choice as all have compromises.
#4: Twins will work fine on track, but you will kill them with regularity. Singles aren't all strippers and rainbows either so choose wisely.
You're correct in looking at Fritz and Peter's threads for suggestions. I have one as well that's likely up your alley: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...ctive-1108119/
How many track events are you doing per year? What run group do you typically run? What tires do you intend to use? Those will all affect the reliability and build needed for your potential car. If you're using street tires and run 2-3 times per year in intermediate then a lot less is required than if you're running 7-8 events and slicks in the advanced group
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rotary#10 (08-02-19)
07-30-19, 01:34 PM
#3
How many track events are you doing per year? What run group do you typically run? What tires do you intend to use? Those will all affect the reliability and build needed for your potential car. If you're using street tires and run 2-3 times per year in intermediate then a lot less is required than if you're running 7-8 events and slicks in the advanced group
A street FD is not a fast track car, and a reliable+fast track FD is not much of a street car. So, it really depends on how hard and fast you want to go. You'll have a lot of fun if you align your expectations with reality, and not much fun if they're askew.
07-30-19, 02:03 PM
#4
You need to know what you want for your car
Once you figure that out, come back and you will get a whole lot of suggestions on how best to accomplish your goals
07-30-19, 02:20 PM
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Not to completely burst your bubble, but reliable track FD and 450whp are most likely mutually exclusive thoughts..haha. Sometimes I wonder if reliable track FD is a real thing at all or I'm chasing unicorns! I'd say 350-380whp should be a more realistic goal if you intend to not tear up drivetrain components on the regular.
Not all is lost though as a 350-380whp FD that's well setup and well driven will run with just about anything you come across at track days unless you're regularly running with Porsche Cup Cars, Vipers ACRs, and other extreme ends of the track car spectrum.
To touch on some of your questions:
#1: If you're not shooting for 450whp, you don't need e85. Problem solved! I'd stay away from e85 mostly because it's not available at any road course I've been to and you'll go through so much you'd need an aux tank in a pickup to keep you fueled up on a track weekend.
#2: Keep the OMP and don't over-complicate it. Use synthetic oil. People's fears here are over exaggerated especially for track use.
#3: Trans is a weakness especially with more power and tire. Cooling is a must as I've learned. You can do a swap or gearset but there's no perfect choice as all have compromises.
#4: Twins will work fine on track, but you will kill them with regularity. Singles aren't all strippers and rainbows either so choose wisely.
You're correct in looking at Fritz and Peter's threads for suggestions. I have one as well that's likely up your alley: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...ctive-1108119/
How many track events are you doing per year? What run group do you typically run? What tires do you intend to use? Those will all affect the reliability and build needed for your potential car. If you're using street tires and run 2-3 times per year in intermediate then a lot less is required than if you're running 7-8 events and slicks in the advanced group
Not all is lost though as a 350-380whp FD that's well setup and well driven will run with just about anything you come across at track days unless you're regularly running with Porsche Cup Cars, Vipers ACRs, and other extreme ends of the track car spectrum.
To touch on some of your questions:
#1: If you're not shooting for 450whp, you don't need e85. Problem solved! I'd stay away from e85 mostly because it's not available at any road course I've been to and you'll go through so much you'd need an aux tank in a pickup to keep you fueled up on a track weekend.
#2: Keep the OMP and don't over-complicate it. Use synthetic oil. People's fears here are over exaggerated especially for track use.
#3: Trans is a weakness especially with more power and tire. Cooling is a must as I've learned. You can do a swap or gearset but there's no perfect choice as all have compromises.
#4: Twins will work fine on track, but you will kill them with regularity. Singles aren't all strippers and rainbows either so choose wisely.
You're correct in looking at Fritz and Peter's threads for suggestions. I have one as well that's likely up your alley: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...ctive-1108119/
How many track events are you doing per year? What run group do you typically run? What tires do you intend to use? Those will all affect the reliability and build needed for your potential car. If you're using street tires and run 2-3 times per year in intermediate then a lot less is required than if you're running 7-8 events and slicks in the advanced group
I'll say I do have realistic expectations about power. I understand that more power equals more input into your engine bay and potential for breaking things. I tend to run my 240SX on the lower end so I can focus on driving instead of wrenching. At the end of the day, I suppose if I were to do something like an 8374, assuming I can address boost creep, there's potential to turn it up a bit for fun on the street or for a few faster laps on a cool day, and then run lower boost for most track events. In a car of this weight, 350 is plenty to really haul the mail and have lots of fun doing it.
Petrhahn has documented what looks like a fair amount of issues with the OMP. Have you had these as well? Having the engine be dependent on the OMP and water injection systems for survival makes me a little nervous.
07-30-19, 02:36 PM
#6
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Thanks for the thorough reply. I've been through your thread as well. Big picture, I do maybe 4-8 events a year, depending on work, family, vacations, etc. I have two little kids so time is currently pretty limited. I'm not going to trailer the car, and run something like an NT01 usually. Typically I run intermediate, sometimes advanced depending on the organization. I've been doing track events for over a decade but with many different cars and while living in different parts of the country, and usually without a ton of time to dedicate to the hobby.
I'll say I do have realistic expectations about power. I understand that more power equals more input into your engine bay and potential for breaking things. I tend to run my 240SX on the lower end so I can focus on driving instead of wrenching. At the end of the day, I suppose if I were to do something like an 8374, assuming I can address boost creep, there's potential to turn it up a bit for fun on the street or for a few faster laps on a cool day, and then run lower boost for most track events. In a car of this weight, 350 is plenty to really haul the mail and have lots of fun doing it.
Petrhahn has documented what looks like a fair amount of issues with the OMP. Have you had these as well? Having the engine be dependent on the OMP and water injection systems for survival makes me a little nervous.
I'll say I do have realistic expectations about power. I understand that more power equals more input into your engine bay and potential for breaking things. I tend to run my 240SX on the lower end so I can focus on driving instead of wrenching. At the end of the day, I suppose if I were to do something like an 8374, assuming I can address boost creep, there's potential to turn it up a bit for fun on the street or for a few faster laps on a cool day, and then run lower boost for most track events. In a car of this weight, 350 is plenty to really haul the mail and have lots of fun doing it.
Petrhahn has documented what looks like a fair amount of issues with the OMP. Have you had these as well? Having the engine be dependent on the OMP and water injection systems for survival makes me a little nervous.
450HP is a lot of power for the FD - even a "mild" track car. Most people running one turn down boost to the 350 range and are still plenty fast.
Here's your recipe to start if you have the budget:
Large Streeport engine with a tension bolt kit
Balanced and clearanced rotating assembly
EFR IWG single (8374/8474) - A restrictive catback and a better manifold than the turblown one will prevent boost creep
Supporting fuel (for 93 pump)
V-mount
Dual oil coolers
Elite 1500 ECU
Custom engine loom with additional sensors for multi level engine protection
Rebuilt stock brakes with good pads and high temp fluid
New pillow *****
Better front sway bar and mounts
Decent coilovers
Sticky tires
When you reach the limits of that setup:
Replace the rest of the suspension bushings
Upgrade the brakes
Trans and diff cooling
Trans and diff upgrades
Cage
Better coilovers
Slicks
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rotary#10 (08-02-19)
07-30-19, 02:53 PM
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Agree with all of the above and just want to highlight this pertinent question^
A street FD is not a fast track car, and a reliable+fast track FD is not much of a street car. So, it really depends on how hard and fast you want to go. You'll have a lot of fun if you align your expectations with reality, and not much fun if they're askew.
A street FD is not a fast track car, and a reliable+fast track FD is not much of a street car. So, it really depends on how hard and fast you want to go. You'll have a lot of fun if you align your expectations with reality, and not much fun if they're askew.
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07-30-19, 03:04 PM
#8
Sounds like you want a track orientated car that can be driven on the street vs a street car that you'd track a couple times.
For consideration:
300 HP = Overboosted Stock Twins.
350-380 HP = Smaller single turbo + Fuel Upgrades
400+ HP = Larger single turbo + Fuel + BBK + Drivetrain = more **** breaking
350-380 seems to be the sweet spot for a track FD. You may want to start at 300 on twins and see how that does for you and then go from there. The only thing that is critical is cooling. You need stock oil coolers, an aftermarket radiator and upgraded intercooler at minimum. V-mount is preferred, but you can get by with a nice SMIC. You should think about AI if you do run a SMIC though. The AEM kit works and is reliable, but you'll also need a sakebomb tank to get through a session. Together, that's roughly $700, plus the cost of a good SMIC and your probably close to a V-mount.
As for rollbar/cage, benefit is using fixed seats and harness. Con is fixed seats when you drive it on the street. You should also retain the factory belts and airbag when you do drive it on the street
And don't listen to Molotovman, he doesn't track his FD
For consideration:
300 HP = Overboosted Stock Twins.
350-380 HP = Smaller single turbo + Fuel Upgrades
400+ HP = Larger single turbo + Fuel + BBK + Drivetrain = more **** breaking
350-380 seems to be the sweet spot for a track FD. You may want to start at 300 on twins and see how that does for you and then go from there. The only thing that is critical is cooling. You need stock oil coolers, an aftermarket radiator and upgraded intercooler at minimum. V-mount is preferred, but you can get by with a nice SMIC. You should think about AI if you do run a SMIC though. The AEM kit works and is reliable, but you'll also need a sakebomb tank to get through a session. Together, that's roughly $700, plus the cost of a good SMIC and your probably close to a V-mount.
As for rollbar/cage, benefit is using fixed seats and harness. Con is fixed seats when you drive it on the street. You should also retain the factory belts and airbag when you do drive it on the street
And don't listen to Molotovman, he doesn't track his FD
07-30-19, 06:37 PM
#9
This isn't the 90's or early 2000s. You can have a civilized, fast (compared to other similarly prepared vehicles), and reliable FD so long as you accept that your powerplant will not last 100k (be prepared for 40). Gone are the days of band aid fuel management and overly aggressive shock/spring configurations on coilovers. It does, however, cost a significant amount of money and they don't take kindly to poor maintenance schedules. Also if you wanted to be the most financially sound you'd probably be better off with a new C8.
07-30-19, 07:47 PM
#10
Not sure if you are better off financially with a C8. C6 Z06s are probably the best value track car
07-30-19, 08:45 PM
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This isn't the 90's or early 2000s. You can have a civilized, fast (compared to other similarly prepared vehicles), and reliable FD so long as you accept that your powerplant will not last 100k (be prepared for 40). Gone are the days of band aid fuel management and overly aggressive shock/spring configurations on coilovers. It does, however, cost a significant amount of money and they don't take kindly to poor maintenance schedules. Also if you wanted to be the most financially sound you'd probably be better off with a new C8.
And not just from a maintenance perspective, but from a replacement perspective. Are you prepared for it to go into a wall? For me that was an easy decision when you could get nice FDs for $12k. Now???
Not sure if you are better off financially with a C8. C6 Z06s are probably the best value track car
Not sure if you are better off financially with a C8. C6 Z06s are probably the best value track car
It is a shame that all of the cool '80s and '90s Japanese iron is getting more expensive, to the point where it's starting not to make much sense to build them as track cars. Unfortunately the stuff that came later tends to be a lot fatter and more isolated. My S13 is the sensible and cheap way to have a fast front engine rear wheel drive Japanese car, but as I said earlier, the design ethos and sexy lines of the FD have appealed to me for a long time. My daily driver is an F80D M3, which also serves as the backup track car. It is super fast capable and reliable, but a paddle shifted 3,600 lb sedan with luxurious leather is a very different experience from a 2500 pound S13 with a super low inertia drivetrain, spherical bearings everywhere, etc.
I actually had a C6 ZO6 a few years back, it was a rocket ship but just not my thing. Felt too big and numb. LS engines don't really light my fire either. The new mid engine C8 seems like a remarkable step for GM, but I'm not going that route. If I were to get something more new and modern it would be a 997 GT3.
That said I've also thought about a swapped FD with something more in step with the ethos of the car, turbo/small/light. If an SR20 or K20 could be done pretty easily it would make for a fun car... But it's not a rotary any more, and that's certainly part of the appeal to me.
Last edited by turtl631; 07-30-19 at 08:53 PM.
07-30-19, 08:46 PM
#12
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Eventually, Tom. When it’s “ready”, lol. I’d take it out now if I had the pillow ***** done and had better tires, the trans that’s in the car is likely near death too, it grinds just about every gear at WOT near redline.
Surely you can get away with less than my list but if his budget supports it, why not? The one thing I did leave out is a dual vented catch can (both side of the block).
Surely you can get away with less than my list but if his budget supports it, why not? The one thing I did leave out is a dual vented catch can (both side of the block).
07-30-19, 09:40 PM
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Or just keep it lightly modified until you do a full 20B swap.
07-30-19, 09:41 PM
#14
As everyone already mentioned, reliable track daily RX7 can be done but be prepared to spend. It really depends on how OCD you are with your build. With FD RX7 prices these days, budget at least $40k+ for your build. Once you spend that kind of money, there are many newer, and more reliable options out there for your goal (lotus evora, E9x M3s, Vettes, etc.)
I have pretty much the same goal as you, OP. I am fixated on the FD because of the look and feel of the car.
I have pretty much the same goal as you, OP. I am fixated on the FD because of the look and feel of the car.
07-31-19, 09:18 AM
#15
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I don't know if I'd necessarily start with a full build before hitting the track. Probably get a good car, get it sorted out on the street, then try out a track day. See what it needs, do that, go forward. If the engine is good in the car, run it. If it has twins, run them until they have problems. Upgrade as your find weak spots and tailor it for yourself.
BTW, I haven't heard of any substantial boost creep problems with the IWG's in the new EFR turbos. Even if you had some creep it would be light years better than dealing with the hassle of an external wastegate.
Also, it may make sense to run a boost controller with a high boost/fun setting for the street and a lower boost setting for the track.
Dale
BTW, I haven't heard of any substantial boost creep problems with the IWG's in the new EFR turbos. Even if you had some creep it would be light years better than dealing with the hassle of an external wastegate.
Also, it may make sense to run a boost controller with a high boost/fun setting for the street and a lower boost setting for the track.
Dale
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gracer7-rx7 (09-20-19)
07-31-19, 09:50 AM
#16
Sounds like you have a good idea of what it will take to get there with regard to time and money. You also have experience with multiple platforms so you understand that any of them will have pitfalls, especially when trying to be pushed on track. Sticking with NT-01s will help you a lot with wear and tear on the drivetrain as with stickier tires comes more heat and abuse, so I think that's a good standard to stick with. As for some of your specific questions on the platform, no I haven't had OMP troubles, but others don't seem to have the same turbo gasket problems I do so it seems problems can be unique. The basic required track mods are well documented here with regard to cooling and power. You'll need a good rotary tuner and ECU support, so you should check into that. I believe Turblown is in MN which might be your best bet.
I think with any car that will be tracked regularly you HAVE to have an affinity and love for the car. They're all going to have weaknesses shown on the track and if you don't love the car you'll never put in the time/effort to make it better. So if you truly want to have a FD track car, it can be done if you're willing to put in the time and money.
I think you should look very long and carefully when trying to buy a car. That could give you a major head start on your goals. Buying a bucket and trying to fully build it will not save you time nor money. I'm in the same boat as you with young children so time is at a premium and these days the hardest part about trying to build a car.
I think with any car that will be tracked regularly you HAVE to have an affinity and love for the car. They're all going to have weaknesses shown on the track and if you don't love the car you'll never put in the time/effort to make it better. So if you truly want to have a FD track car, it can be done if you're willing to put in the time and money.
I think you should look very long and carefully when trying to buy a car. That could give you a major head start on your goals. Buying a bucket and trying to fully build it will not save you time nor money. I'm in the same boat as you with young children so time is at a premium and these days the hardest part about trying to build a car.
07-31-19, 11:38 AM
#17
I think the reliability factor has more to do with how fast you're going than anything else. I drove to and from the track for a decade pulling a trailerette, and car always got me home, same motor, same major components. That was running 2:16s down to sub 2:10s at VIR.
Then when I started hitting 2:08s, now 2:02s, **** started breaking and I starting trailering the car. Now I'm looking to have spares of major components lol.
Then when I started hitting 2:08s, now 2:02s, **** started breaking and I starting trailering the car. Now I'm looking to have spares of major components lol.
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07-31-19, 12:08 PM
#18
I think the reliability factor has more to do with how fast you're going than anything else. I drove to and from the track for a decade pulling a trailerette, and car always got me home, same motor, same major components. That was running 2:16s down to sub 2:10s at VIR.
Then when I started hitting 2:08s, now 2:02s, **** started breaking and I starting trailering the car. Now I'm looking to have spares of major components lol.
Then when I started hitting 2:08s, now 2:02s, **** started breaking and I starting trailering the car. Now I'm looking to have spares of major components lol.
07-31-19, 01:34 PM
#19
To add some detail for the OP:
1. Same thought with E85... it's not readily available here, or at any of the tracks I go to.
2. Heat is the biggest enemy, thus:
3. Your stock trans will live up through about 350rwhp, after that, a cooler and an upgraded main shaft are needed. There aren't good options out there for a car that also sees street use. All racing gear sets, and sequential trans options set the gears too closely. The Collins 350/370Z trans adapter reguires a rare automatic bellhousing AND, an even rarer auto/20B rear housing on your motor. T56 shifts like a truck.
4. My '99 twins did great for a long while, but with increased speed came increased IATs that even a huge intercooler couldn't change. I love my EFR, despite having to deal with the boost creep (ported turbine housing), but the lowest boost I can run is about 12psi, and that's a lot of power creating more heat, etc. stressing other things.
5. Water injection adds complexity, but the new Sakebomb tank at least allows you to carry enough to rely on. I plan to try it at least.
6. You literally can't have enough heat sheilding or cooling for water, air, oil, trans, diff, brakes, etc. Invest in it.
1. Same thought with E85... it's not readily available here, or at any of the tracks I go to.
2. Heat is the biggest enemy, thus:
3. Your stock trans will live up through about 350rwhp, after that, a cooler and an upgraded main shaft are needed. There aren't good options out there for a car that also sees street use. All racing gear sets, and sequential trans options set the gears too closely. The Collins 350/370Z trans adapter reguires a rare automatic bellhousing AND, an even rarer auto/20B rear housing on your motor. T56 shifts like a truck.
4. My '99 twins did great for a long while, but with increased speed came increased IATs that even a huge intercooler couldn't change. I love my EFR, despite having to deal with the boost creep (ported turbine housing), but the lowest boost I can run is about 12psi, and that's a lot of power creating more heat, etc. stressing other things.
5. Water injection adds complexity, but the new Sakebomb tank at least allows you to carry enough to rely on. I plan to try it at least.
6. You literally can't have enough heat sheilding or cooling for water, air, oil, trans, diff, brakes, etc. Invest in it.
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Narfle (07-31-19)
08-01-19, 08:32 AM
#22
What's your definition of "reliable" ? It doesn't break down during a track event, or it doesn't require regular wrenching and maintenance (beyond tires and oil) ? Any car this old is going to need regular wrenching, and any mods will increase the frequency of working on it.
08-01-19, 09:37 AM
#23
If not, you need to understand the lifespan and how close you are to the end of the lifespan (whether it's originally installed or replaced) depending on intended use. Case in point, have the hoses, suspension, wiring harness, engine, transmission, differential been replaced
08-01-19, 10:38 AM
#24
Bit of an echo chamber in here by now but I'll add that I think the answer is yes but it's contingent on two primary things
1. what you're willing to spend to extend the breaking point of x,y, and z components & systems
2. what caliber of track car and track driving you're envisioning
Like Peter said, no matter what you spend, if you drive it hard enough it will break. You could go buy an ex LeMans or GT car on racingjunk and even it won't be bullet proof.
It seems like you've done excellent research and have already recognized the likely pitfalls. So long as you love the platform and you're willing to spend the money to get out in front of those pitfalls, I think you'll be fine.
I'm trying to build a nice street/track combo myself, but my highest ambition out on track is to have some fun with the porsche guys on advanced track days.
1. what you're willing to spend to extend the breaking point of x,y, and z components & systems
2. what caliber of track car and track driving you're envisioning
Like Peter said, no matter what you spend, if you drive it hard enough it will break. You could go buy an ex LeMans or GT car on racingjunk and even it won't be bullet proof.
It seems like you've done excellent research and have already recognized the likely pitfalls. So long as you love the platform and you're willing to spend the money to get out in front of those pitfalls, I think you'll be fine.
I'm trying to build a nice street/track combo myself, but my highest ambition out on track is to have some fun with the porsche guys on advanced track days.
