I will tape a few tufts on there, that is a worthy test.
I will try and get some pics as well.
y

 

The heat exchanger install is finished, very happy with the result. I was able to get a new hood insulator from Ray Crow and it was very easy to mutilate it to match the cut outs in the hood. I also used black seam sealer to reattach the hood skin to the frame, the factory stuff gave up some time in the last century.

Done

 

Very clean!

 

Thanks!

 

These look good! I do not want to get a CF hood (which costs a fortune, usually requires hood pins, and is a giant piece of insulation), and have been looking for some good louvers. I'm getting these!

 

Have you gone for a drive with paper flaps on yet? See if they blow open or suck closed at speed

 

Looks great. Is it the Re-A hood that has vents in about the same place? I have noticed in passing that cars coming in from Japan that seem to have vented hoods for a long time have considerably more corrosion throughout the engine bay.

Maybe this would not be an issue in Florida?

 

My solution.

 

That is an interesting point. I could see it going both ways. May let it dry out quicker from overnight humidity or let more precipitation in soaking the bay.

 

Lol, I do that sometimes... looks like the same fan too.

 

A big improvement for heat soak would be a EWP that could run with the motor off to cycle water through the radiator (in conjunction with a radiator fan that stays on when the engine is off). I find myself having to turn on the car every 5 mins or so to do this.

Personally, not sure if a couple of small vents will make that much difference (especially when one is on the cold side). It would have been good to get before and after temp readings in similar situations.

 

100% Tom. I do the same. I will restart 3x sometimes. Leave it till the fans come back on for a few minutes and restart/run till it's back in the 80s°c then rinse and repeat. If the commander is showing 100 you know it is well over that at the turbos.

 

When one parks on a surface that contains moisture, natural convection lets some of that moisture, as it evaporates, move upward into the engine bay. If the engine bay is not vented, it would stay warmer and partially prevent moisture from condensing on the engine both from being warmer and also having less convection air current through the engine compartment.

In that light, I learned that when my FD (no hood vents) was garaged (heated) for the winter on a non-sealed concrete floor, moisture from the floor convected upward, causing my Jet-Hot 2000-coated HKS DP to get a bit rusty. Now when it's stored for the winter, I have a small fan blowing under the car to keep that from occurring.

 

I don't expect to have any major corrosion caused by these vents. I think that a lot of Japanese cars are exposed to much harsher weather (snow, tsunamis, earth quakes, godzilla etc) than we have here, also my car is inside all the time.