Can anyone tell me how to tell which engine i have?

The turbos are stamped N3G1 which my understanding is a 99 spec.

What i am guessing is the oil pressure sensor has a block on my 96 but the new motor doesn't have a block it just has a single wire coming out the block.

the ecu appears to be a 96-98 on the new motor.

 

Found oil in the rear turbo. Is it from shipping/removal or is this what a bad turbo looks like?

How should I remove the oil?

 

13BREW=13BREW. they are all the same. the equipment on them or not on them differs slightly but they are all the same. the motor from a 2002 will work, fit and accept all the same parts on a motor from a 92.

that amount of oil coming out of the turbo is insane. if it was oil from shipping for the purpose of preservation then it wouldnt be black. that is used oil making its way out the turbo. an amount like that would be easy to test for. clean all of that out, disable fuel and spark, crank the motor and see if it comes back. that will give you your answer. if for some reason it doesnt come out then run it (assuming it runs) and watch it come out. you shouldnt need running oil pressure to get it to run out if its that bad. cranking oil pressure should be more than enough.

 

+1, its a really common thing to put the 280ps turbos on an older or lower powered engine. the "99 spec" is what we call it, but they were an option on a 99+ car.
anyways the oil pressure gauge went away too, but i believe they just removed the sensor and put a plug in there.

 

V4 still had the oil pressure sender and gauge iirc, 5 and 6, not.

If everything hasn't been installed yet, it would be the time to pull and and inspect the turbos....you won't have to battle with the big circlip at least.

 

Watch for snapping off studs when removing the turbo.

Oil can get into the turbos if you overfill the oil. Oil should only be filled to the half way mark of the dip stick hash marks.

Maybe they transported the car nose down and the oil may have flowed up into the oil filler neck.

From there it can migrate down the breather tube to enter into the elbow ahead of the frontturbo.

From there it can move through the y-pipe to the back turbo.

Most cars have had the breather tube rerouted to a catch can long ago.

But if the original breather tube set up is still in place, this might be the source.

In an extreme rare case another oil line might accidently get hooked up to the inlet pipe ahead of the front turbo.

The breather tube and the oil line for the turbo run through the same area on the way to the turbo area.

The 265 hp turbos added an abrasion collar into which the impeller blades tips wear into, creating a better seal.

For the 280 hp improvment, the channeling inside the turbo was changed slightly.

In both cases there was likely some changes to the ecu mapping

 

There is no 99 spec as there were actually 3 engine specification levels from 99-02: 255ps, 265ps and 280ps

There are only two types of actual engine blocks: auto and manual. Only manual are still being made by Mazda.

The difference in spec between 265ps and 280ps manual engines is then a largely down to turbo, exhaust and many other minor differences (too many to list)

 

Yeah there is no oil sending unit.

What would I be inspecting/looking for if I took the turbos apart?

 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...121a65762b.jpg

 

I suppose you could peer inside and see if the manifold has any cracks that would allow the oil to leak out into the snail. As for as examining the seals, best read up about other people's success in taking turbos apart and rebuilding them. My sense it is rarely done.

 

No sender on both engines, replacement missing the screw in plug - and if I'm following, it's a blank casting now - the only thing in the vicinity is the gauge coolant temperature sender? You may have already had an engine swap at some stage. Dash instrument swaps are an industry over here, no oil pressure display in the cluster, a boost pressure gauge instead?

I'd degrease and check in and out thrust play on the secondary before doing much, primary usually exhibits wear first......and pools of oil from surge and blowby, plus oil from when the injectors fail. If it came with the engine, all the Y pipe plumbing pretty oily inside?

 

From memory, the oil check valve part in the housing also changed and is designed to work with the newer style oil injectors with spacer (relevant if using OMP)?