Ok, what happens when an Air Pump goes bad? Does it make any distinctive noises? How about when a hose to the air pump has a crack or split?

Basically, I have this noise coming out from that area when the car is warm. It sounds like a low pitched whistle when the accelerator is pressed.

I have an HKS Power Intake, and I ran into this bulletin:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/l...tsbs.htm#TSB25

Question is, could the intake have cause my air pump to fail? If so, how do I keep this from happening again? And is it the air pump that's really making that noise?

The car will go back to the mechanic next week on Wednesday so I need some help....

 

What's the chances you have a split/torn/loose hose and what you're hearing is boost being bled out? The airpump is only active at lower RPMs, so if it's whistling all through the rev range (and on boost), I don't think its the pump.

 

The airpump WILL get damaged if it sucks air directly from atmosphere. Most air intakes have a tube going into the airpump AFTER air enters through the air filter.

 

I don't hear it through the full rev, only the low revs.

So if I'm just driving normal, no boost, I hear it. If I do a hard acceleration, I hear it for a second until the higher revs kick in. That make sense?

The reason I'm thinking it's the air pump area (besides that's the area the sound seems to be coming from) is that Mazda repaired an oil leak at the intake manifold and that's when all this started.

Flybye, I didn't do the install of my HKS intake, but would that cause this problem?

 

Also, I'm just wondering if what I'm describing sounds like an air hose or air pump gone bad...

This intake was installed at the end of August, and I have only had the car about 1 week since then (it's been in the shop for about 4 weeks straight, then sitting waiting to go to another shop).

Total miles since the intake was installed, about 300, maybe and those are really just miles back and forth to the dealership and the other car shop I'm now taking it to.

Could the air pump wear out that quickly from the HKS intake?

 

the airpump makes some strange noises... Thats why the stoick box had a baffle...
Id check belt tention ... I think they might be loose!

 

My airpump makes wierd sounds below 3000 rpm with light throttle. Sounds ike a flight of geese. It was to my understanding that the sound is normal and will be more pronounced after installing any open air intake

 

Really? Mine never made any noise (the whole week I drove it after the intake was installed) until Mazda touched it.

How loud is the sound?

 

If you didn't do the install yourself, who did?

Several things could have happened
1) The guys that DID do the isntall left the airpump disconnected
2) They may have left its inlet pump just pull air from atmosphere

#1 will cause the cat to fail sooner than later. #2 will cause the airpump to fail.

The really funky sound is like a mooooooooing sound, and it only happens at low RPM. The noise actually comes from the ACV on the lower intake manifold. When you disconnecting the airpump the ACV no longer funtions. Dunno why. Never bothered to find out why this mess is in there :p

 

My air pump just went bad about 3 weeks ago. When it was on it's way out, it was making a tweeting noise that sounded like a throw out bearing going bad. Eventually the bearing in the air pump bought the farm.

Darril

 

I had a shop close by perform the install. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or knowledge to work on the car myself, however after all these problems I'm willing to learn.

I'm going to try and find the electrical connection on the air pump. I'll see if I can disconnect it and run the car to see if the sound is still there or not. I suppose that should let me know if it's the air pump or not.

 

Ok, I disconnected the electrical connector to the air pump and drove around. No sound. So I guess it's the air pump, or something that has to do with the air pump.

Next, what are my options?

I have the Bonez Hi-Flo cats, so if I run without the air pump I'm assuming I'll eventually clog the cat. How long would it take for that to happen?

Also, without the air pump running, the car idle'd like sh*t and almost died twice. This an ECU or pulley problem if I decided to leave the air pump disabled until emissions testing?



I took a look at the intake and there is a 3rd hose that apparently was part of the stock intake that is basically just hanging down into the engine area.

I would imagine that if air is sucked through that it would be straight engine heat and not a good thing. Should I have this hose removed and blocked off?

 

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

I didn't read the entire thread so forgive me if I repeat stuff.
The air pump is the biggest piece of crap on the car. I have had two go bad and that was with the stock air box
If you only hear the sound at low RPMs it may be the pump. It has a clutch that shuts off the pump at around 3k-4.5k
The hissing may be a split hose or fitting or blown manifold gasget or who knows. Your gonna have to tear it apart and inspect parts. Try unpluging the pump(harnes is just behind the pump its self and see if the noise stops. When mine went bad it would squeek and moo and generally sound like crap So I eventually just got rid of it.

 

Thanks,

Unfortunately I need to keep mine, go ole' emissions testing.

I guess I'll replace it, close up that extra hose and see how long the new one lasts. If it dies fairly quickly, then I'll look for some other solutions.

 

A new replacement is like $1300 when I called mazda I'd just take it off and rteplace it when you have to do emissions, It's not TOO hard. Thats what I do, but take it off soon and store it where it will not rust out.

 

If I just unplug my airpump electrically, will that be good, bad, or indifferent for its lifespan? basically, i have it and need for emissions, but I have a midpipe for daily driving.
~Tom

 

Yea, the problem is I'm running the Bonez Hi-flo cats. If I run mine without the air pump, I'll clog it, eventually. Not sure how long that would take though.

Anyone know?

 

Well.....if you clog the cat, the emmisions will be lower, won't they?

Removing the air pump has different effects on the idle in different FDs. Sometimes it fluctuates the idle and sometimes it doesnt. I have NEVER been able to find out why. I know mine didn't fluctuate, so I'm happy there and I never had to do any research on it, but if you run the cat without the airpump, you WILL quickly kill it.

What I was thinking of doing was simply buying a new highflow cat, and installing it when emissions testing time comes. After it passes, stick the MP back up and that's that. I can't even remember if the airpump pushes air at idle :p

 

Thank Flybye,

My problem with doing the Midpipe/Hi-Flo switching is that I don't have the tools or workspace to do the switching my self all the time. So I would have to pay a shop to do it for me each time.

I just put the car in the shop this morning to let the mechanic verify that the air pump is bad or whether a hose has a crack or tear in it.

If it's the pump, I'll just replace it. If it goes out again fairly quickly, then I'll look for another alternative.

BTW, is there are better pump that could be used in it's place? I thought I remember someone wanting to use a Vette pump.

 

Nevermind, it was a bad hose.

Although I did buy a used FD air pump off ThePartsTrader for $50, I'll just keep it for a spare if/when my air pump does fail.

 

If I have the stock precat, stock main cat, and stock exhaust (i bought them for emissions purposes) xs remapped ecu, but no air pump will it pass emissions? I would only use the stock exhaust system for emissions, then I will put my dp/mp/cat back back on. Will any damage be done by just using them for a few days? Since I have a remapped ecu, will it run bad w/ the stock exhaust system?

 

The air pump only pushes air at low RPM so yes it works at idle. The air pump blows air into the mail cat to help burn the left over fuel so it will have a negative effect on emmisions. It WILL NOT pass inspection in CA if your person knows what to look for (visual). Your car should pass with a down pipe if you put on your air pump and main cat. Unless you get that guy with a good eye that spots it. Even if the air pump is squeeking and going out it should still work to get you passed emmisions. (Mine was crap and I passed). Usually a remaped ecu is only dealing with higher RPMs that tested at smog day so it should be O.K. So now that I've said this you should fail miserably

 

Just to add with what Donovan said, yes it will run bad without the Air Pump and using cats.

Your idle will be really bad and the car will be terrible at low RPM's. Not to mention killing your cat converters. I ran mine as a test without the air pump and it was horrible.

Basically, as Donovan, you won't pass emissions without the air pump.

 

hey guys with no air pump, and a DP and MP how does your car run? I did it on my FC but am hesitant (but want to do it) with my FD I live in MI emissions no prob. Thanks for imput