Put Mobil1 in my R1 for the first time
08-10-01, 11:55 AM
#1
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Put Mobil1 in my R1 for the first time
On the advice of Gordon Monsen, Chuck Westbrook, Dave at KD Rotary (second hand) and various others I changed my oil two days ago and rather than fill it w/Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w50 like usual, I put in 4 qts of Mobil1 15w50. Results were (and are) immediate. The car runs much smoother, accelerates and decelerates noticably better. Quantifiably, by the Power FC Commander, my Water temps decreased by ~4-5 degrees Celcius in all conditions. Idling, cruising, revving her out. Nothing else has changed; it's still hot as hell here in TX, so that's not a factor 
. I'm definitely happy with it, I'll keep you all posted.
Also fyi, I had just changed the oil less than 1000 miles before; the oil that drained out wasn't even dirty.
Btw, how often to change? I'm planning on every 3k miles.
. I'm definitely happy with it, I'll keep you all posted. Also fyi, I had just changed the oil less than 1000 miles before; the oil that drained out wasn't even dirty.
Btw, how often to change? I'm planning on every 3k miles.
08-10-01, 01:35 PM
#2
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AAAAAGGHH!!
I use Redline, it's moooooch better! You need to use Redline too. You can mail order it, they offer discounts for multiple cases.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm
Step up to a higher plateau in engine oil, REDLINE.
The car is red, the oil is red, it only makes sense.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm
Step up to a higher plateau in engine oil, REDLINE.
The car is red, the oil is red, it only makes sense.
08-10-01, 02:18 PM
#3
sold the FD...kept the FB
I'm sticking with Neo for a while. I've heard its better than Mobil 1, Redline, and all other popular synthetics. Even their non-synthetic is better than most synthetics.
Non-Synthetic:
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/street1.htm
Synthetic:
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/oilover.htm
Non-Synthetic:
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/street1.htm
Synthetic:
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/oilover.htm
08-10-01, 04:53 PM
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Re: Put Mobil1 in my R1 for the first time
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
.
Btw, how often to change? I'm planning on every 3k miles.
.
Btw, how often to change? I'm planning on every 3k miles.
08-10-01, 05:21 PM
#6
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my opinion re synthetics, based on some research I have done, including ASME journal articles (my bro works for advanced vehicle engineering at GM)
for very high revving, high load, or extreme temp conditions, synthetics work great and are likley worth the $$$$...if you operate your car under somewhat "normal" conditions (street driving) they are unlikely to add significant life to your engine, vs. a quality petroleum oil (I personally use Castrol 20w-50, which is what Pettit recommends, aside from synthetic)
it is a common myth that synthetics are "long drain" oils that can go 5-10k miles on an oil change...absolutley untrue...they still accumulate dirt and metal particulate (which causes excess wear) at the same rate as a conventional oil.....particulate saturation occurs at roughly the same mileage interval (about 3,000 miles for n/a cars) for any oil....turbo cars dirty their oil MUCH faster than an n/a engine, so I think 1,500 miles is a good interval for hard street driving
as far as which synthetic is better? think about it, quantity means lower price, and there are WAYYY more people using Mobil 1 than either Neo or Redline...not saying those are not quality oils, but as far as the difference between them and Mobil 1, I don't think there is much, and Mobil 1 is about 1/2 the price
for very high revving, high load, or extreme temp conditions, synthetics work great and are likley worth the $$$$...if you operate your car under somewhat "normal" conditions (street driving) they are unlikely to add significant life to your engine, vs. a quality petroleum oil (I personally use Castrol 20w-50, which is what Pettit recommends, aside from synthetic)
it is a common myth that synthetics are "long drain" oils that can go 5-10k miles on an oil change...absolutley untrue...they still accumulate dirt and metal particulate (which causes excess wear) at the same rate as a conventional oil.....particulate saturation occurs at roughly the same mileage interval (about 3,000 miles for n/a cars) for any oil....turbo cars dirty their oil MUCH faster than an n/a engine, so I think 1,500 miles is a good interval for hard street driving
as far as which synthetic is better? think about it, quantity means lower price, and there are WAYYY more people using Mobil 1 than either Neo or Redline...not saying those are not quality oils, but as far as the difference between them and Mobil 1, I don't think there is much, and Mobil 1 is about 1/2 the price
08-10-01, 07:56 PM
#7
here's a question:
is it okay to switch brands of oil? i've been using castrol synthetic, and i want to switch to mobil1. I know some old oil will be leftover when i drain it, so is it okay if a small amount mixes?
is it okay to switch brands of oil? i've been using castrol synthetic, and i want to switch to mobil1. I know some old oil will be leftover when i drain it, so is it okay if a small amount mixes?
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08-10-01, 09:29 PM
#8
40k worth of fail
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Originally posted by RotoGo
What about Royal Purple? I hear all the Ferrari and Viper guys use it....
What about Royal Purple? I hear all the Ferrari and Viper guys use it....
08-10-01, 09:37 PM
#9
There has been alot of info about synthetics being bad for the rotary engine. The high flash point of synthetics makes it gum up inside a rotary engine. Due to the rotary using an oil metering system to lubricate the apex seals the synthetic doesnt burn like conventional oil and causes premature failure in the Rotary. Although synthetics are great for turbocharged cars in general due to the high temps its been a general rule to use conventional oil in our cars and just chage it frequently. I know under high boost and heavily modded Rotarys its still recommended to use synthetics because the benefits out weigh the potential problems. Highly modded engines rarely see the same longevity as stock engines so build up with synthetics isnt really a factor. I am suprised no one has brought this up on this thread. I would love to go back to using sythetic oil if there hasnt been any documented engine failure due to its use in the rotary.
08-10-01, 09:41 PM
#10
Blow up or win
Originally posted by gsxr1000
my opinion re synthetics, based on some research I have done, including ASME journal articles (my bro works for advanced vehicle engineering at GM)
for very high revving, high load, or extreme temp conditions, synthetics work great and are likley worth the $$$$...if you operate your car under somewhat "normal" conditions (street driving) they are unlikely to add significant life to your engine, vs. a quality petroleum oil (I personally use Castrol 20w-50, which is what Pettit recommends, aside from synthetic)
it is a common myth that synthetics are "long drain" oils that can go 5-10k miles on an oil change...absolutley untrue...they still accumulate dirt and metal particulate (which causes excess wear) at the same rate as a conventional oil.....particulate saturation occurs at roughly the same mileage interval (about 3,000 miles for n/a cars) for any oil....turbo cars dirty their oil MUCH faster than an n/a engine, so I think 1,500 miles is a good interval for hard street driving
as far as which synthetic is better? think about it, quantity means lower price, and there are WAYYY more people using Mobil 1 than either Neo or Redline...not saying those are not quality oils, but as far as the difference between them and Mobil 1, I don't think there is much, and Mobil 1 is about 1/2 the price
my opinion re synthetics, based on some research I have done, including ASME journal articles (my bro works for advanced vehicle engineering at GM)
for very high revving, high load, or extreme temp conditions, synthetics work great and are likley worth the $$$$...if you operate your car under somewhat "normal" conditions (street driving) they are unlikely to add significant life to your engine, vs. a quality petroleum oil (I personally use Castrol 20w-50, which is what Pettit recommends, aside from synthetic)
it is a common myth that synthetics are "long drain" oils that can go 5-10k miles on an oil change...absolutley untrue...they still accumulate dirt and metal particulate (which causes excess wear) at the same rate as a conventional oil.....particulate saturation occurs at roughly the same mileage interval (about 3,000 miles for n/a cars) for any oil....turbo cars dirty their oil MUCH faster than an n/a engine, so I think 1,500 miles is a good interval for hard street driving
as far as which synthetic is better? think about it, quantity means lower price, and there are WAYYY more people using Mobil 1 than either Neo or Redline...not saying those are not quality oils, but as far as the difference between them and Mobil 1, I don't think there is much, and Mobil 1 is about 1/2 the price
08-10-01, 09:49 PM
#11
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Hey GoodfellaFD3S, I don't know why it would or wouldn't affect this, but did your knock figures change at all before and after the oil change?
08-10-01, 11:42 PM
#12
www.silverbulletrx7.com
I find all this very interesting but would have to ask "why do synthetics work better?" I mean the oil is injected and lubs the turbo bearings but what else? I mean it must be reducing friction somewhere to create such a difference... right? I would like to start using Mobil 1 but only if I understand why it is better in a rotary.
08-11-01, 10:21 PM
#15
Originally posted by gmonsen
zoomzoom: the comments about synthetics you mention have never occurred in a scientific or documented way. it just reflects the mazda sticker warnings that are supposedly due to a problem they experienced many years ago with a poor quality synthetic. in reality, neither synthetic or dino oils burn as well as 2 stoke synthetics. the best way to do things is a separate reservoir for the OMP using 2 stoke synthetic oil. otherwise, synthetic is the best you can get. there really are no arguments to this. there are only anecdotal stories. you should try a high grade synthetic and you will see an improvement immediately in how the car runs and what the temps are. -gordon
zoomzoom: the comments about synthetics you mention have never occurred in a scientific or documented way. it just reflects the mazda sticker warnings that are supposedly due to a problem they experienced many years ago with a poor quality synthetic. in reality, neither synthetic or dino oils burn as well as 2 stoke synthetics. the best way to do things is a separate reservoir for the OMP using 2 stoke synthetic oil. otherwise, synthetic is the best you can get. there really are no arguments to this. there are only anecdotal stories. you should try a high grade synthetic and you will see an improvement immediately in how the car runs and what the temps are. -gordon
08-12-01, 08:02 AM
#16
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Originally posted by GsrSol
Has anyone ever tried a "synthetic blend"? I know Castrol makes one and might be the answer for those that don't want a full sythetic.
Has anyone ever tried a "synthetic blend"? I know Castrol makes one and might be the answer for those that don't want a full sythetic.
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