Interesting thermostat discovery

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Oct 25, 2002 | 04:37 PM

#26

m_snoby

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From: Atlanta

Damn I don't think there marketing department could have said it better!
LOL
matt

Oct 25, 2002 | 05:21 PM

#27

tlmuas

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From: orange county

I have a stant 180 thermometer/radiator caps, they all work fine. Maybe that was just a defective one or something

Oct 25, 2002 | 06:04 PM

#28

GoodfellaFD3S

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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!

Quote:

Originally posted by m_snoby
Damn I don't think there marketing department could have said it better!
LOL
matt

I betcha Bruce Wayne just copied and pasted from their website

.

Btw, this thread is great---I just learned a valuable piece of "How not to blow your motor" advice.

Oct 26, 2002 | 12:09 AM

#29

BATMAN

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From: Silicon Valley Bay Area

hush now

Oct 26, 2002 | 01:37 PM

#30

m_snoby

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From: Atlanta

Something else that I discovered...
I bought the 180 degree thermostat from NAPA and tested it. It started opening at 190 degrees and was fully open at 200.

Very bizarre.
Why can't they just make them open at the temperature they sell them at?

Oct 26, 2002 | 02:48 PM

#31

KevinK2

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From: Delaware

Quote:

Originally posted by m_snoby
Something else that I discovered...
I bought the 180 degree thermostat from NAPA and tested it. It started opening at 190 degrees and was fully open at 200.

Very bizarre.
Why can't they just make them open at the temperature they sell them at?

some brand t-stats have a lag when 1st opened, example is wahler for euro cars. once warmed they open and close at about right temp. mabe napa is same way.

oem does have jiggle pin. can just drill a 1/32" hole in outer flange on non-jiggle replacements. position t-stat so bleed is at top.

this bleed mostly helps when filling coolant, or mabe if minor air intrusion exists.

Oct 26, 2002 | 04:08 PM

#32

m_snoby

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From: Atlanta

oh well that makes sense
Thank you

Oct 26, 2002 | 04:45 PM

#33

RTS3GEN

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From: Lee's Summit Mo.

Quote:

Originally posted by dcfc3s
I've also seen similar experiences with aftermarket thermostats. The worst was a buddy of mine got a Pep Boys thermostat for his '88 Turbo. Worked OK for about a month, then the car started to overheat again - ran consistently at 3/4 on the temp gauge (mind, this is with the old 2nd gen temp gauge that actually works right and isn't an idiot light).

Of course, first assumption is "it can't be the thermostat, I just changed that!". Wrongo.

The Mazda thermostat really isn't too pricey and is VERY reasonably priced, all things considered. It has a very long life, too.

I've seen the Pettit thermostat - I think they just took a Mazda thermostat and drilled a hole in it. And charge $50. Hey, Cam's gotta fund his racing somehow!

Anyhow, there is NO GOOD REASON to get a cheapie thermostat.

Dale

Where did you come up with 50 bucks for Cams' thermostat. It's the same as a stock one-9.95 or there about's. And if you live in a warm climate 10 degrees difference can make the difference between a good engine and a dead engine. Also remember that Cam is also the only "3rd gen " specific shop left around, he has a small base and shrinking of clientele. If 20 bucks is too much for you to buy a part that may prevent engine failure then don't buy it. I have sold a dozen engines for Cam and installed every one with a 170 degree thermostat and all engines are still running. 3 of these cars/engines have well over 50K miles on them and run low 12's and my personal car runs 11's with no temperature related problems to date. I even road race my car 6-7 times a summer at Heartland park Topeka(KS) in 90 degree and hotter with a front mount intercooler and still no overheating. So before you make a comment you know nothing about perhaps do some research first. Thanks
Art