you can boost your OEM ignition or any other system for that matter with our Plasma Booster from IGNITION SOLUTIONS.

 

wow, glad i read all this before asking the same damn question. it pays to do a search! and the links are great

 

Yea, this thread is very helpful to me too. But I had a few simple questions for clarification purposes...

1) You simply yank the wires off the ends of the spark plugs, right? Then just push 'em back on when you've replaced the plugs? Nothing else to it?

2) I'm only changing my spark plugs, and I'm going to run NGK 9's all around (BUR9EQ/P, right?) So it shouldn't matter which plug goes where, right?

3) Ok so the plugs are removed by unscrewing them by using a ratchet and correct bit size... but when I'm putting in the new plugs, how much should it go in? The "torque to factory specs" statement is kinda vague...

Thanks

 

Hand tight is fine for tightening them.

Correct, all 9s means you don't care what goes where, the thing you should do though, is change them 1 by 1, so there is no chance of putting the wrong wire on a plug.

 

Thanks PVerdieck. Here goes nothing hehe.

I hope this works...cuz I'm praying fouled plugs are the reason why my car cranks but won't start...(have power to accessories, so it's not the main fuse, and I can hear the fuel pump come on).

 

Oh yea...one more thing.. What's this all about?

<<I coated each one with a touch of anti-sieze>>

What exactly is anti-sieze, is it a must, and what does it do?

Thanks

 

Anti sieze helps prevent it from getting stuck like the studs do, those are supposed to have it as well.

Tighten by hand then 1/4 or 1/2 wrench turn more depending on the type of plug. instructions

I bought some Denso's to try out and the next set will be the ferrari/motorcycle iridium plugs (8's & 10's).
Heat range guide

How to read used plugs to determin if you need to go hotter or colder here

 

Thanks for the links GoRacer. I got one last question tho hehe

I got the anti-seize, and some dielectric boot protector while I was at it (for between the plug & the wire).

Does it matter what you use to apply this stuff? Cuz it comes in little packets, and I was simply gonna use a Q-tip to apply it. Wasn't sure if the cotton getting on it was a bad idea though.

 

The spark plugs should not be torqued down too much. I think the manual says 14 ft-lbs (from memory -- could be wrong) or something like that. Don't tighten them down too hard or you will strip the hole in the rotor housing.

-Max

 

Time to buy a torque wrench. Well according to the install guide 14mm is 15lbs but since that's for a piston engine i'd go with Max's 14lbs.

If they are flat seat plugs and no torque wrench then 1/2 wrench turn after hand tight according to the chart but since I don't have a torque wrench then maybe Max can correct if wrong.

I don't see why a q-tip would be bad seeing as thats what I used yesterday (lol).

 

OK I think I'm missing something...

I took off the elbow, TB, left the oil filler neck since I'm only changing plugs (not the wires).

I pulled off the wire cap from the first plug, and all I see is a black plastic peice covering the entire plug. I definetly don't see anyplace to actually grab ahold of the plug via a bit and use a ratchet to unscrew it.

So if someone can tell me how I'd get access to the plug itself once the wire cap is off, that would be great, cuz all I can see is this black plastic round thing covering all of it...

Thanks

 

FDNewbie,

It would be nice to see a picture of what you are describing. Are your spark plug wires new or old?

Take a look at the picture below of Jason's car (with the anti-det plug):



You see the plug is exposed and you can see where to get your wrench on it.

 

Mahjik, wow...you're in for a shocker. Newbie alert! lol.

I wasn't looking down far enough...I think what I saw was where the plug wires connect to the coils?

Anyways...good news is I found the plugs lol, and they're exposed like you said. Bad news is I don't have the proper size extension to grab a hold of it. Would you happen to know what size the extension bit is, so I can get one real quick?

OR, would you recommend one of those spark plug remover tools from the local auto part shop?

Thanks

 

I puchased a deep socket to do the job. Unfortunatetly, I'm at work so I can't check the size and I don't remember the size off the top of my head.

 

just for anyone else's future reference, it's a 13/16" 1/2" deep socket...

 

You will want a stubby flexible wrench to, it helps.

Has anyone used the regular Denso plugs? I got them just cause they look like the race plugs but the same price as NGK-P's.

 

In doing what? I'll admit, getting to the two left plugs was a little tight, but it was still very doable. Just sux cuz you're all pressed up against the fender, and I HATE leaning against my car's panels

 

I find it easier to change them from underneath the car.

 

Yea a bunch of people said that earlier in the thread...but I guess I needed to be able to visually see them my first time around. That, and raising my car on jack is a huge ordeal because of my Mazdaspeed sideskirts...

 

Mahjik,

This thread, or at least the link to the website with the pictorial write-up, should go to the advanced tech section for posterity.

 

I second that. Here's the link to the site w/ the pics and writeup.
http://home.covad.net/~f2racer/plugs.../plugwires.htm

 

Here is a pic of the Ferrai/motorcycle/snowmobile NGK and Denso's equivilent of the OEM NGK's. The NKG's are a 1/4" shorter, so even opening the gap should be safe. The porcelen is slightly more then 1/4" shorter as well.

 

I have virgin rotor housings and wrench tightened to 1/8 turn with small stubby wrench. Go with 1/16 to 1/8 turn of wrench handle (if you don't have a small torque wrench).

Oh, for wires I meant Moroso and not MSD. I decided to try the Magnacores on the 7 and they fit excellent. Snapped on extremely snug (boot and click). Strait boots for middle two coils just like the OEM ones.

 

Man...I just put 'em in, tighened 'em as much as I could by hand, then used the ratchet to turn them until I felt moderate resistance (ie I felt that they were actually tight.) For 3 of the four, that was prob 1/2 a turn or so. For one of 'em which I couldn't reach, so I didn't tighten as much as the others by hand, it was about 3/4 a turn.

Either way, I just turned the ratched until I felt it start to get tight. I hope that's not bad??