Zoomspeed

Are there how tos on chaging the plugs and the wires, besides the one at robinettes site? something with alot of pics will help too.

How tight are plugs suppost to be in?

Thanks.

GsrSol

Just make sure they snap onto the coils good and that you can't pull them off to easy. If need be, you can put a dab of superglue to hold the boots onto the coils. They should be on there good!

c00lduke

just go in from the bottom, if not it makes it much much harder

Zoomspeed

Im changing the wires too.

technonovice

I have been saving this. Sorry no pics.

Spark Plugs and Wires

As Joe says, it is easy to do the job from below. I have also included posts on how to do it from above, as the shop manual recommends. --Steve

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 11:34:49 -0800
From: jramos@sunup.Corp.Sun.COM (Joe Ramos)

It is very easy to change the plugs from the bottom through the A-arm using a short ratchet.

The following are instructions provided by Racing Beat for installation of the Ultra "Red Hot" ignition wires. I have copied them as provided except in steps 2 through 5 where the size nut they indicate is dif- ferent than that on
my parts. I have included their size in [x] im- mediately following what I have. Also, in step 7 I used different length wire than indicated by them. Again, I put their item in [x] after mine.

************************************************** *******************

I11510

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR PART NUMBERS 11510 AND 11511

CAUTION: Attempting to perform this installation task with the engine hot will likely lead to burned flesh!

1. Remove the end of the throttle cable from its attachment on the "constant radius" arm, on which it pulls, by holding the arm in the open position and slipping the barrel-shaped end out of its mounting slot.

2. Remove the clamp on the forward end of the rigid tube leading to the throttle body. Remove the (4) four 10mm [6mm] nuts that retain this rigid tube to the throttle body. It is NOT necessary to dis- connect the small hose at
the rear of this rigid tube.

3. Remove the (2) two 12mm [8mm] acorn nuts at the top of the throttle body. Slip the cable clamp off of the rear stud, then re-position the rigid tube (loosened in step 2) over the top of the engine, out of the way of the stock
ignition wires.

4. Remove the (2) two 12mm [8mm] chrome acorn nuts from the underside of the throttle body. Gently pull the throttle body off of the studs, exercising caution to keep from destroying the gasket. Ro- tate this throttle body unit
up, at the front, to expose the igni- tion coil terminals.

5. Now, loosen the (2) two 10mm [6mm] bolts holding the oil filler neck in place, but do not remove them completely.

6. After detaching the (2) two small hoses attached near the filler cap, the upper portion of the oil filler neck must now be pulled away from the "Trailing Number 1" coil wire to allow its removal.

7. Remove the stock wires and replace with the ULTRA 8MM IGNITION WIRES using the following guide:

WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND REPLACING ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID ERRORS AND POSSIBLY DAMAGING THE ENGINE.!

The shortest wire supplied - Trailing Number 1 [2] Coil/Plug
The second shortest wire - Trailing [Leading] Number 1 [2]
Coil/Plug
The second longest wire - Leading Number 2 Coil/Plug
The longest wire - Leading [Trailing] Number 1 Coil/
Plug

Use the blunt end of a screwdriver to fully push the coil caps
into place.

8. Reassemble in reverse order.

________________

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 21:04:52 +0000
From: Gordon Monsen (gmonsen@fast.net)

You need one of those small 2-jointed snap-on rachets to do it, but... i just jack up the front end and do it from underneath the car. if you try to do it from the top, you have to remove way too much stuff. doing it from down
below, suing the double-jointed small ractchet, its pretty easy and takes less than half an hour. the only problem is that you do the front leading plug pretty much by feel, since you have to contort yourself a bit to get at it.

________________

Joe re-posted the above after Dennis' account of his ordeal (below). I thought I would leave Dennis' here as well, since the more info the better. --Steve

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 11:16:00 -0700
From: Dennis S Pedersen

I'm a bit of a do-it-yourselfer, so when I decided that my new-to-me '93 Touring model needed new spark plugs and wires, I didn't hesitate to rush out and buy some to install myself. "Shouldn't be any tougher than a clutch job!
A ten-minute project" I thought -- I was wrong! Maybe I missed something obvious to the rest of the world, but I came dangerously close to losing it over this "minor project!"

So on the fateful day designated for the plugs 'n wires project, I pulled out my Mazda shop manual (wouldn't have any other, right?), my tools, and my bright, clean new wires and plugs ready to spend a few rewarding minutes
tending to my car's wants. The manual says to remove the old parts one at a time, then install the new parts, torque to specs etc. Sounds easy.

Step 1: pop the hood. That's when I realised I might be in trouble, though exactly _how much_ was still something I could only dimly perceive. I could barely even _see_ the wires and plugs, much less get at them to yank them
off. So...

Step 2: remove the duct that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Not too difficult, and at least then I could see where everything was. It still took a while for me to track down which wires woven in with the other wires
and vacuum and coolant hoses were the wires I'd need to replace. Hmmmm. Maybe a pain, but certainly feasible right?

Step 3: remove old plug and coil wires. I started with the "upper-right" (#2) wire end (where it goes into the coil) since it is the most accessible. I like to remove old parts intact, just in case, so I like to use my hands to remove
plug wires. No go here though. I ended up using plyers as I just couldn't get enough purchase in the cramped quarters to remove it properly. Oh well, "move on with your life." The spark plug end was no problemo. The double
coil-wires in the center were next, and not too bad either. I just had to make a mental note of how they all went in so I could put everything back in the same configuration.

Step 3 (Again? Yes, I still have more work to do here!): remove left (#1) plug wire from coil. Aaarrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!! There's no way that will ever come out! It is under the throttle body, and jammed up against the back of the oil
filler tube. After much grunting and straining (ouch... the back of my knees are starting to get really sore from all this bending over!), I finally managed to have it mostly pulled off, but not enough for removal. So I started
tearing away at the boot in order to make enough clearance to pull it out. Still no way. I briefly thought about removing the tube, but then I'd have to pull out the throttly body too to get at the bolts. Too much work for a "minor
project." I finally used an extra battery J-bolt as a hook to yank the #1 wire out. Pheww! Looked like a rat gnawed on it (that actually happened to my previous car... 'nother story), but it's out!

Step 4: Remove old plugs: No problem. Except of course there was so little room that my ratchet could barely move enough to turn the socket. I was a little steamed at this point and completely forgot that I own an electric
ratchet. Oh well, it probably would've died right then anyway.

Step 5: Install new plugs. Yippeeee! Fun! I coated each one with a touch of anti-sieze and torqued to factory specs. Careful not to confuse the trailing and leading plugs though. I love it when things go that smoothly, and I get
such a warm, contented feeling when I use that beautiful torque wrench! (Used the smaller lbs/inch one here.)

Step 6: Install new plug and coil wires. Arrgghhh. That's when I realised that the stupid oil filler tube was still in the way, and there was no way I'd ever get that #1 wire onto the coil with it in place. Deep breath (actually a sigh of
resignation).

The _real_ step 6: Remove throttle body and oil filler tube (should have been step 3). Started yanking off the hoses and wires going into the throttle body. Not laughing any more. It's easy to write "yanking off the hoses" but it's
never as easy as it sounds when those hoses are five years old and have never been removed from their cramped quarters. And I really didn't want to use plyers on them. So of course that was another major hassle that left my
hands with numerous small scars. (I'd long since pulled off my gloves to get better clearance and feel.) But the throttle body finally came off, and, in short order, the oil filler tube! (Then I think I just stood there for a while
moaning and staring at the engine compartment... but I don't know for sure as my wife wasn't around to verify this and I can't remember anything during that short period of time. That's not really required for step 6/3, but I
couldn't help it.)

Step 7: Install new plug and coil wires. For real this time! Went fairly smoothly too, though the plug ends of the wires don't have a lot of metal for clipping onto the plugs, so I was never sure that they were seated properly. Still,
it wasn't too bad.

Step 8: Re-install throttle body and oil filler tube. Not bad.

Step 9: Re-install the duct that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Piece of cake.

Step 10: Re-connect all hoses and wires that were supposed to be re-connected in steps 8 and 9, and remove all the tools lying around in the engine compartment. Optional: Retrieve the socket and extension that fell down onto
the top of that plastic shroud underneath the engine. Experience brief panic when you fear that you'll have to pull the shroud off in order to find the socket and extension.

Step 11: Start engine and test drive. Re-connect that vacuum hose that was supposed to be re-connected in steps 8, 9 and 10 that is causing your engine to run like a turn-of-the-century farm tractor.

Now enjoy the pride and satisfaction that comes from knowing that you're doing everything you can to make sure your car runs in tip-top shape! And, yes, it _does_ run smoother and stronger with the new plugs and wires.

50tooslow

I changed my wires when the upper intake manifold was off. I think it is almost impossible without doing this. I belive you can get to the leading coils but the trailing wires will be a bitch. If i'm not mistaken I think the #1 trailing is hiding behind the oilfillerneck or something like that. I just remember thinking it would be next to impossible to change them without pulling the upper intake.

technonovice

I've done mine without pulling the UIM. It is a pain but it can be done.

TainoIndian

iTrader: (4)

i changed mine the other day.......not that bad....i even did it without moving the oil mount...that is the trickiest one to get to! but the only simple way of getting the job done is with the manifold and throttle body off please dont attempt to do it with those on it will be a PITA!!!

just cut the old wires and pull those nasty suckers out..and then the electrical wires connecting to the coils you will have t pull out to get more working room because you are gonna have to twist and turn the wires to get then in place secure then once they click your done. just be ready to get some busted knuckles working in that tight space! the plugs are easy with the manifold and throttle body off!!! hmm i saw pics and a write up on someones site once if i find it i will post the adress.

TainoIndian

iTrader: (4)

here ya go budy hope this helps out nice write up with pics on plug&wire change! http://home.covad.net/~f2racer/plugs.../plugwires.htm

Toadman

Nice Taino! Gracias!

Zoomspeed

Thanks I needed that.

I'm having a problem removing the oil filler neck. I got the two bolts near the coil off, and it will wiggle around and stuff, but it still seems like its on something, but I can't find any more bolts, at least in the areas I can see. any ideas?

technonovice

I have the same problem so I end up just working around it.

c00lduke

good lord people do it from the bottom, you don't have to do anything but jack up the driver side front and have skinny bitch arms like me and reach up in there

GsrSol

You don't need to remove the oil filler neck, just the throttle body and elbow.

Zoomspeed

you can't change the wires from the bottom can you?

mrb63083

iTrader: (4)

Yea, i need to change mine too. so is it easier to get it from the bottom or top?

Zoomspeed

I got a pack of that di eletric grease stuff. Its suppose to go in the spark plug end of the plug wire right? Am I suppose to out any in the coil end of the plug wire too?

MastaCow

There is a third bolt, runs horizontally, the head points toward the driver side fender. If you feel around down there below the neck, you'll find it. I had to loosen it to access the trailing coil when I changed my wires.

Cetchup

Very informative site Taino! I like the captions =)
One quick question, what plugs are those and how much? Thanks amigo.

- Danny

daze

iTrader: (8)

Taylor-Vertex
NGK Platinums

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Exactly dont know why everyone makes a big production out of changing the plugs.As far the wires go I dont know Mine have never been damaged to require replacement.I does absoulutely nothing to your performance to change the stock ones.Only replace them if the are physically damaged or not connecting.
Otherwise you are just throwing away your money.

redrotaryrock8

i did this two days ago. do a search on the forum with spark wires as the keyword. their is one thread where there is a link to a site that has lots and lots of good pics for this change.

what kind of wires do you have?


to get the job done correctly, i suggest that you take the intake elbow and the throttle body out. the intake elbow has 4 10mm nuts (theres a plastic thing that goes ontop of the elbow under the nuts, make sure you put it back again). the throttle body has 4 12 mm chrome nuts (be careful, dont drop them while you take them out- i lost one, and i cant find it in the engine, its somewhere there). theres a tps plug on the firewall side of the throttle body. be careful with that plug, dont mess around with the two screws that hold it- just unplug the connector. then there are two hoses, one under the throttle body, and one on the firewall side (theres was also a hose attached to the intake elbow that you had to take out). you have the take the accelerator cable out aswell from the half moon (and if you have cruise there should be two cables).

with the intake elbow and the throttle body out, you will have enough room to change your plugs, and the wires. (i suggest you also change the oil and the oil filter).

be careful with the wires. take one out at a moment. make sure you dont mess up the order of connection. the top front goes into Leading front. the center top goes into trailing front. the center bottom goes into trailing rear. and the rear top goes into leading rear.

good luck!!!

redrotaryrock8

oh yeah, i forgot to tell you, you have the loosen the oil mount aswell. there should be 3 nuts (most people cant locate the third one). 2 of them will be very obvious, the third one is below the oil mount. use your hand to feel for it. you will find it. but make sure that you dont take the thrid one out completely. just loosen it so that you could push the oil mount aside while putting the wires in.

and dont forget to apply anti-seige on your spark plugs

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

It's not as good as "Tainoindians" instructions though...
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...plug_wires.htm

I don't think changing the wires is a waste of money. Personally think they should be changed every 100,000mi (regular maint'). You can even change them to improve radio interference.

I like Accell, MSD and Taylor Pro's but love the Vitek. None of the other brands can handle the heat Vitek can.
I don't like Magnecores and never tried Nology but if you have money to burn get the FEED's (which look like Nology's).

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

(sorry, shoulda added it to the previous)

I beleive you need to change your wires when you change to a high power ignition (HKS, MSD, etc).

Summit Racing has spark plug wire slip covers to protect from heat, Vitek has sheathing for hoses that possible could work also (Just get the Vitek wires instead), and MSD has some solutions as well (below)...
http://www.msdignition.com/1plugacc.htm#anchor51753