here was my original thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=164866

The solution was adjusting the the TCA (turbo control actuator) arm/valve connection point. At full extention the tca valve was totaly closed, so it ratteled around in the turbo manifold. I removed the e-clip, turned the part at the end of the arm one full turn so that right before full extention the arm would be pushing the valve completely closed.

Booyaaa....no rattle.

Hope this help any of you other rattlers out there.

 

That was hard to find I should think, good job.

 

yes it was, thanks dub :-)

 

Do you want a nice ETB ,call Garfinkle in Murfreesboro Tn.

 

ophh yeah, I already am in email contact with him, i just need to call him and get it going...,. maybe ill call him right now :-)

 

+k good thread.

 

hey damian the TCA is the lower rod right? Did you completly remove the TCA unit? how did you get the rod back on the gate? i just took mine off and cant get it back on and i didnt even turn the rod yet ( since it is rusted, which is why i want to remove the whole unit)was yours tight like this?

 

yep, its the very bottom one...and the end of it was rusted and a PIA to get loose so that i could rotate it for adjustment....i did not take the entire valve out, just jacked the front of the car up and worked under it...to get it backj on after i adjusted itpast the gate pin, i pushed back the actuator arm with some pliers until it poped on the gate pin, it should only be a very small a mount (like 1/8 of an inch) past the gate pin in order to hold the gate tight...for me, one full turn of the connecotr end (counterclockwise) was plenty...it dosnt take much, and you dont want to over due it because then it will not open the gate all the way when the actuator arm retracts...

 

thanks for all the help but one last question, are you sure its counterclock wise, because that would open the gate more when we are acually trying to close it all the way right? I can barely turn the thing..it takes me forever since its all rusted.. thats why im asking.

 

well, lets make sure we both think what we think we think :-) (hehehehe)

to my understanding:
the TC gate is closed normaly, then opens at switchover.... the TCA arm is fully extended normaly and then retracts into the actuator (opening the TC gate) at switchover..... so....

if your gate is 'rattling' around while at tilde (TCA extended, gate closed) then you need to extend the TCA arm a bit more to fully close the gate...rotating the end counter-clockwise (un-screwing it) will make the entire arm (end connector and arm) longer, thus pushing the gate closed further... so for what i did was adjust it so that the the gate pin and arm connector hole only lined up when I pushed the arm into the actuator a bit (only a few millimeters is needed) so that it kept constant pressure on the gate (closed)

make sence?

by the way, there is a locking nut behind the TCA arm connector, i had to break that darn thing loose first before i could turn the connector...real PIA!!! :-)

 

Damian!! im sorry man!! i thought i knew what the TCA was!! i was acually looking at the prespool gate above it.. im sorry. oh man i feel like an idiot... but yup i looked at the "real TCA" and that thing is loose!!! im going to get to work on it tomarrow!! thanks for all the help you da man!!

 

lol....
no problem man, let me know if it solves your rattle

 

Booyaaa....no rattle.

haha thanks damian...
i ended up turning that rod like 3 or 4 times, mine was real loose!!

 

YES!!! good stuff...i love it when shizzy works right :-)

glad to help :-)

 

hwo does it get that loose? Did you guys use any thread locker once you adjusted it to make sure it doesn't happen again? Also any pics of exactly where this is? I'm ordering a workshop manual very soon. (BTW: where is the cheapest place?)

 

we are turning the rod to make it SHORTER right?

and this is the lower rod on the exhaust mainfold?

did u use a new e-clip or just put the old one back on?

 

You could use a new e-clip, but I reused my old e-clip (100K+ miles on it) and it has been doing fine. Making the rod shorter will close the gate more and more.


I hope that pic helps you guys.

I wouldn't suggest using any thread locker at all. With all the heat cycling that goes on in that area, the threads will usually be fused together. My Turbo Pre-Control Actuator arm was stuck pretty bad. There was *no* way I could turn it while it was on the car; this forced me to take it off, put it on a vice grip, and tackle it on a work bench. I drowned it in PB Blaster and it still *BARELY* moved. When it did move, it made these groaning noises from all the fused metal contacting against eachother.

As for a manual, I always just use www.iluvmyrx7.com when I need to access a manual. It's free, given you know how to open a PDF file.