Hi everyone,

I am a new guy to the forum. This place is awsome! Been reading some of the past posts, and it looks like I could learn alot.

I am having a problem with the secondary turbo kicking in after 4500. I read the earlier thread that 7sins was helping with, so I followed his recommendations on checking the vacume and pressure lines to the turbo actuators. I don't see anything obvious in any of the lines, but I did notice that the EGR valve was not even tight against the lower intake manifold. (This would explain the EGR code from the self diagnostic system!)

Anyway, I am wondering if this could keep the control or precontrol actuators from functioning? Is it linked to either the vacume or pressure side of the control system?
I am just trying to figure this out before I put everything back together and it still doesn't work.


Thanks for any help in advance.

 

Sorry, but no. The egr would not be a primary source of secondary turbo issues.
And as far as that EGR code goes, I bet you a buck that the code comes back even after you tighten the sucker up. The sensor get's fried from the heat. I know, I went through two and dicected them see what was wrong. The contacts, though touching, are glazed over with something that keeps them from conducting. You need to pipe in a vacuum switch to kill that code.

Take a closer look at the Control system for the Turbo Control Actuator. I think that you will find your problem there.

Get a shop manual to. It really helps in the visualization process.

 

Thanks spooled7! cool: Sounds like I should just buy a new EGR before I put it all back together. Not sure what you mean about the vacuume switch, but will the code go off if I put in a new EGR? BTW, this is a CA car.

Also, what type of device can I get to charge/vacuume the system? Is there a hand pump w/ gauge or something else to buy at a automotive store? How much to pay? Just curious.


:

 

Pick up a Mighty Vac pump at kragen or pepboys. I think I paid $20 for it but I'm not sure.

About getting a new EGR. They cost some bucks, at least the CA do. The sensor is the main reason it cost so much. The fact remains that the EGR does very little in emissions control since it is only on during cruising, and the switch is going to go out quickly (2 months on mine). I would suggest searching the web for a vacuum actuated on/off switch and a buy it instead of the EGR. It would most likely cost far less than the EGR. If you are going to buy the EGR Valve, make sure to wrap the sensor part with some heat shield to delay the switches ultimate demise.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks a bunch spooledUP7! I am going to get a might vac right now. I will let you know how things turn out.