SanJoRX7

Where do you plug this sensor in? I can't seem to find anything worthwhile by searching. Those that have done this, please kick down the info!

Thanks!

patrick

SanJoRX7

The reason i'm looking for this info is to determine how tough of an install it would be. I'm considering adding a water temp gauge at the same time that I put my AST in and re-do the water/AF mix. Would like to minimize my time under the car, to the extent possible, so doing it all at once is the only way.

Patrick

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Check this post, it might help:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=199824

rynberg

There are three common locations:

1) in the thermostat housing

2) in the upper radiator hose

3) in the throttle body coolant hose

I prefer 1) for quickness of response and the fact that it will be the hottest readings. The only negative is if your t-stat sticks closed, you might not realize it right away. But I have the PFC for that anyway.

AMRAAM4

OK then, what place doesn't have its drawbacks?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I put my sensor in the thermostat housing. Works great and took me about 2~2.5 hours for everything. I used this site as reference:

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...temp_gauge.htm

ZeroBanger

I tapped mine into my AST tonight. Yea its the stock plastic AST...go ahead flame me.

I got an extra AST that I put in my rear bin along with a clam and some hoses. I call it my AST Survival Kit.

SanJoRX7

...OR, you could just install an aluminum one and not ever worry again! DING DING DING!!!

ZeroBanger

No, I dont trust those. There are 2 problems.

1) The shape. I believe (as others do) that the stock shape does something that the coke can Aftermarket AST's dont do. Mazda speed sells the stock shape ones for like 300 or so.

2) I have read so many issues with the filler neck corroding or wearing out.

laters.

SanJoRX7

Unless you have any evidence to believe that the shape of the container has anything to do with how efficiently it removes air from the cooling system, I'd say that it's probably not true. Just because MS sells them in a certain shape doesn't validate any concern...consider that some people don't even have them installed (bypass), and they run fine, which would lend more creedence to the idea that it's an unnecessary part of the system than that a particular shape does anything special. And for $300, I could argue that it's just another gimmick to make cash.

As for the filler neck wearing out, it's a small price to pay once every what, 5 years? 10 years?...to know that it won't simply spontaneously split and spew your coolant on the road leaving you vulnerable to 1) overheat, and 2) spinning out due to the newly slippery road just beneath your car (not to mention other cars that drive out there too).

I'm no engineer, but if any are present, please chime in!

ZeroBanger

Mazda has one on the 787B race car and mazda went to extremes to make the rx7 light and to cut costs. They would not have put an AST ont here unless needed. I believe the shape is important.

You know how long my AST lasted on my car? 9 years. Thats right. It only broke because I took my stock airbox out last year and the mystery hose broke the nipple off. I actually fixed it and use it as emergency spare.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I didn't want to tap my thermostat housing, so I put in a Greddy upper radiator hose adapter. It will give you the same temp reading as tapping the t-stat housing. It's an aluminum 38 mm adapter that costs about $25. Very easy to install. Just cut a one inch section out of your NEW radiator hose, and put the adapter in. You may have to tap the hole if your sender doesn't match the thread on the adapter.

rjuge

hey.. about that greddy thing... do they make anything for oil temp.? all i found was something that screws onto the oil filter... i don't fell like using a celica gts filter though..... anything like a quick disconnect oil plug sender?

rynberg

Greddy makes an oil filter block adapter. It has built-in taps for oil pressure and oil temp (2 1/8" NPT and (1) M12?). You can use the standard FD filter with it but changing the filter is a little more difficult. You have to disconnect the TPS harness and maybe push in the fast idle cam to get the filter out. Makes for a clean gauge sensor install though.

radkins

A well kept secret seems to be that the Autometer sensor will screw right into the allen head bolt right next to the filler neck. Hows that for an easy install? They are ever so slightly different pitches, but it will go in about 4 turns before it gets tight, but be carefull and use sealant, I have had mine there for about 2 years now. Although Autometer temp guages read way wrong and I had to calibrate it myself ny adding resistors.