DarkKnightFC

I have a Koyo and its a damn good radiator. Thats what I'll be using preferably. And probably an EVO OEM intercooler core. We'll have to see how it fits.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Very nice set-ups Doridori-rx7 and z-beater!

My H-mount (horizontal mount) set-up has the oil cooler front mounted, so it is just like the new fangled "Z-mount", except with the oil cooler moved up vertically by it height. And proper ducting to completely seperate the IC and radiator inlets.

Doridori and z-beater, I am interested in hearing what you guys did with your oil coolers, as I feel that my solution is not optimal.

I can see mine cooling OK when moving, but with no fan and mounted vertically I worry about oil temps putting around staging up for Auto-x. I haven't put the oil temp sender in for my gauge- that will tell me a lot.

I have been considering mounting a large thin aftermarket oil cooler flat against the radiator since I have similar problems as Doridori mentioned (engine always operates with thermostat closed) or horzontal down in front of the radiator with a scoop on top like the racing rotaries.

My H-mount worked great in Auto-x. I popped the hood between runs (gotta show off) but it wasn't necessary as the IC inlet pipe was hot, the core was warm and the outlet was cold. Cools off very fast since it is horizontal as well.

Some threads with old pics of my set-up. I will have to get some updated pics up soon as it has a 9" cone filter now, new ignition system and about to put 2 more fuel pumps in.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pics-blue-tiis-awesome-engine-setup-hfmic-145822/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pics-blue-tii-engine-bay-teardown-build-up-342353/

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Dori - what is the smaller cooler just ahead of the hood latch? P/S cooler?

Nice setup.


These are good examples of V mounts. As you can see - you end up with the I/C laying *pretty much* flat due to the height of the rad. Since the rad is as tall as it is, when you try to angle it down more to accomidate more of an angle on the I/C you begin to run into things like the water pump pulley, and the round crossbrace that the horns/front electric fan bolt to. This is the reason that most setups end up looking more like your picture at the start - even though technically speaking the "V" s not quite a V - they are more of a closed V.

Undutched

haha. hence i called it Z, right ahhaha.
Very very good info in this thread. great ideas
I might just do that. I was thinking of the Koyo, only hearing good things on the koyo. gotta find a nice IC then though. I want to overbuild. I am looking for 350whp AT THE MOST.

I guess I will have to figure this deal out when i see the engine bay and figure a good way to meet my goal.

DarkKnightFC

So you're saying it actually cools almost too much? Thats something you NEVER hear of with rotaries. As I imagined there would be no real downfalls. Thats a great design, I like where this thread is going.

Chris

Undutched

I had gotten this idea, because basically every turbo racecar has a flat mount intercooler.
I mean half the driftcars even do.
I would think this would work great on a rotary. I was just wondering if more people had done it and if money was the only reason no one did it.
Too bad there are no kits though. that is what I was looking for. I guess I'll have to do it myself haha.

doridori-rx7

iTrader: (3)

My Oil cooler sits in it's OEM placment.. I've reangled the brackets a bit to allow for a more straight on flow into the cooler, say 10 deg. I use a smaller then OEM 3 core cross flow rad with twin 9" fluidyne fans on it.

the small cooler out front is a smaller B&M PS cooler it will sit in an opening in the cover plate that goes on there

DarkKnightFC

Money usually is the only reason no one does it. No one wants to pay someone to do all the welding work thats usually required. And they usually have to make an intercooler with custom outlets, hence J-Rat. All in all the biggest amount of money goes for labor. I don't really feel like spending $500 or more dollars on a Greddy kit when I could have something thats much more suitable for my application. Rotary Extreme I believe has a Vmount kit for the FD. Not sure of the price but its up there. If you don't want to spend much money, 1. do it yourself 2. find stuff that will work and doesn't have to be fancy. I personally think heat wrapped exhaust piping used for the intercooler piping looks just as good as the polished aluminum. And its probably more functional. And each pipe is less than 2 feet long. And I'm not going to use a big shiny intercooler either. Its gonna be painted black and something stenciled on it. But hey, thats just me.

Chris

z-beater

^You are right this setup was not cheap. I did all of the work minus the alum welding. Here is a price breakdown:

Custom bracket material: $30
Custom rad(most bad *** you could buy): $500
IC: $167
IC pipe(thick walled alum): $150
IC pipe welding: $150
OC AN fittings +shipping: $70
AN lines with presed fittings: $130
T-bolt clamps: $40
4" steel bend for aircleaner: $40
Air cleaner: $40
HT silicone couplers: $40

Add it up you will be surprised how quickly it rises.

As for my OC, when I made the blue bracket shown in the last set of pictures I made a support for the OC. This is where is gets tough. I am not sure if the FC has this but the FB has a bar that goes across the front. I have to make sure that the support extended past this bar. Once the support is in the car the OC can then be installed. This makes it a little bit of a pain but the OC stays nice and cool. After a run I can put my hand on the cooler itself. Later down the road I plan to make ducting to the two systems.

Overall this system works very well. On my microtech while traveling at freeway speed I operate at around 80 degrees C. The highest that I have seen it go is 104 degrees C(= 210F). I also think that this is when I had the water seal failure. I have seen people operate at 220+ degrees F with the REW.

My IC pipe at steady state tuning(worst for heat) is about 80 degrees F. I notice that there is about a 10 degree drop across the IC. Remember that this is without the car even moving and the car being under a constant load at 3,4,5 and 6k RPM.

Hope this helps,
Z

DarkKnightFC

Interesting price list. Of course I have a Koyo Rad already. But even if you wanted to convert a normal car to all out V-mount then you would want to buy an aftermarket radiator. This design would might even help the stock radiator to cool better if you were on a seriously low budget...