2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 03-02-10, 02:00 PM
  #26  
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.

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Originally Posted by patman
I disagree with this. A harbor freight vernier is junk no matter what it is, but a good digital caliper is just as good as a dial type, and more convenient due to the metric/standard conversion and full range readout.

And, by the way, I work on F1 cars everyday, and use a digital as do most others at work, and have a good friend who is a professional airplane mechanic (factory service tech for CRJ type jets) who also uses a mitutoyo digital.

Do you also opine that machine tools with a DRO are 'VASTLY' less accurate than using the manual dials? Same technology, same advantage, same reason your statement doesnt make sense.
I'm bunching the DRO statement up because I'd be willing to bet that 99.5% of everyone on here with a digital caliper doesn't have a quality one.

Like I amended (possibly during your reply) you can buy a quality DRO, absolutely, but it'll be as much or more then a dial type.....so at that point you may as well buy a dial type and never worry that the bat. is low etc.

I said nothing about DRO's on anything except a cheap vernier caliper. I also said that there are quality DRO's. I don't see what you're getting at with machining equipment jab. A CNC mill doesn't have a dial on it anywhere, but it is as accurate as it gets.............................but you don't buy it at a discount chinese tool store

EDIT: As far as the aircraft thing goes - my friend, a licensed structures mechanic for kelowna flight craft (27, 37, 47 service mostly) uses a mitutoyo dial caliper. And no measurements are signed off on by the heads unless they are made with a currently calibrated dial caliper. And you won't find a single DRO in the 250+ tool boxes in that hangar. I know they make aaccurate ones, as I've already said, but I'm just going by what I have found.....and that is you can get a (more accurate then harbour frieght) dial type caliper for a better price then you'll find a (more accurate then harbour freight) DRO one.
Old 03-03-10, 02:02 AM
  #27  
Tango Down

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Originally Posted by SpeedOfLife
You'll need a honing stone to clearance your hard seals. A set of picks helps with cleaning. A clutch alignment tool (cheap), big 3/4" drive socket and 3/4"drive breaker bar for the flywheel nut and a STOUT cheater bar (or BIG impact gun). I think the flywheel nut is 54mm (2-1/8"). I practically had to jump on my 3-4' cheater bar to pop the nut loose. Also helpful in that task is a flywheel stop tool. I hear it isn't absolutely necessary, but it's SO nice. Engine lift with load leveler, unless you'd rather save $50 and instead spend an extra hour grunting to push and pull your engine around, possibly breaking other ****.
Screw a load leveler. Pull the hood off.
Old 03-03-10, 07:03 AM
  #28  
Captain OCD

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You don't need a load leveler. Never had a problem without it, and pulling the hood is a necessity with or without it. I don't know why you would need to push and pull the engine around.
Old 03-03-10, 07:26 AM
  #29  
rotors excite me

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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
Screw a load leveler. Pull the hood off.
I did that, too. Using the load leveler made it easier for me as the front end was on ramps and I had no one helping me.
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