Your ¨Magic¨ Tool
I disagree with this. A harbor freight vernier is junk no matter what it is, but a good digital caliper is just as good as a dial type, and more convenient due to the metric/standard conversion and full range readout.
And, by the way, I work on F1 cars everyday, and use a digital as do most others at work, and have a good friend who is a professional airplane mechanic (factory service tech for CRJ type jets) who also uses a mitutoyo digital.
Do you also opine that machine tools with a DRO are 'VASTLY' less accurate than using the manual dials? Same technology, same advantage, same reason your statement doesnt make sense.
And, by the way, I work on F1 cars everyday, and use a digital as do most others at work, and have a good friend who is a professional airplane mechanic (factory service tech for CRJ type jets) who also uses a mitutoyo digital.
Do you also opine that machine tools with a DRO are 'VASTLY' less accurate than using the manual dials? Same technology, same advantage, same reason your statement doesnt make sense.
Like I amended (possibly during your reply) you can buy a quality DRO, absolutely, but it'll be as much or more then a dial type.....so at that point you may as well buy a dial type and never worry that the bat. is low etc.
I said nothing about DRO's on anything except a cheap vernier caliper. I also said that there are quality DRO's. I don't see what you're getting at with machining equipment jab. A CNC mill doesn't have a dial on it anywhere, but it is as accurate as it gets.............................but you don't buy it at a discount chinese tool store
EDIT: As far as the aircraft thing goes - my friend, a licensed structures mechanic for kelowna flight craft (27, 37, 47 service mostly) uses a mitutoyo dial caliper. And no measurements are signed off on by the heads unless they are made with a currently calibrated dial caliper. And you won't find a single DRO in the 250+ tool boxes in that hangar. I know they make aaccurate ones, as I've already said, but I'm just going by what I have found.....and that is you can get a (more accurate then harbour frieght) dial type caliper for a better price then you'll find a (more accurate then harbour freight) DRO one.
You'll need a honing stone to clearance your hard seals. A set of picks helps with cleaning. A clutch alignment tool (cheap), big 3/4" drive socket and 3/4"drive breaker bar for the flywheel nut and a STOUT cheater bar (or BIG impact gun). I think the flywheel nut is 54mm (2-1/8"). I practically had to jump on my 3-4' cheater bar to pop the nut loose. Also helpful in that task is a flywheel stop tool. I hear it isn't absolutely necessary, but it's SO nice. Engine lift with load leveler, unless you'd rather save $50 and instead spend an extra hour grunting to push and pull your engine around, possibly breaking other ****.
You don't need a load leveler. Never had a problem without it, and pulling the hood is a necessity with or without it. I don't know why you would need to push and pull the engine around.
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renjiv2
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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Jan 25, 2024 03:34 AM
