2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Yet another AFM (?) problem

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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:39 PM
  #1  
unW7WZ's Avatar
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From: Houston
Yet another AFM (?) problem

Ok, now I have seen this thread pop up many times, but I need some conclusive findings. I finished putting her back together after vacuum rack removal, fresh gaskets, fresh hoses, etc. and now she starts and dies. As far as I understand, it could be one of 2 things (but this is why I am posting, right?): Huge vac leak, or AFM. When I put it back together it is possible I overlooked something, but I triple checked everything, and it is as it should be (more on that later). When I tested the AFM (in accordance to what I found upon searching) E2->Vs should read 200-600 closed, and 20-1000 fully open. While opening and checking I observed that the values were nonlinear (they bounced around). Does this indicate a bad AFM?

Major second question:
I have seen many vac routing diagrams for vac rack removal, and they seem to differ greatly. I can attach the ones I have, so you can see what I am dealing with. I need to know which one to use. I think the PCV part is the most confusing. Thanks in advance. (88 T2 btw)
Attached Thumbnails Yet another AFM (?) problem-vacrack1.jpg   Yet another AFM (?) problem-vacrack2.jpg   Yet another AFM (?) problem-vacrac4.jpg  
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #2  
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From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
The sweep in values as you open the AFM is in steps.
They gradually go up to near wide open, then they level off & fall back a little.

If there are dead spots or drop-outs in the sweep - it's bad.

At least, if it's an S4, you can clean the contacts.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #3  
unW7WZ's Avatar
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From: Houston
no dead spots, IIRC. I'll double check. Thats good news.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
#1 Keeps the charcoal canister purge. Some like keeping it.
#2 Ignores the oil sump vent.
#3 Is like I did my S5. The fuel pressure regulator gets it's pressure from behind the throttle plates for better mileage, or in front of the throttle plates for big fireballs when shifting.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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From: Houston
Also, #3 ignores the twin scroll actuator, which is one thing I am keeping. Also, what do I do with the hose coming from the bottom of the canister? I believe I am supposed to keep that one open, but I am not totally sure. Anyway, all of this confirms my deepest fear: huge air leak... ..... Guess its time for an air compressor and some soapy water.... Thanks for the help though. Also: on my AFM there are 4 or 5 huge sweeps as I open it, I am guessing this is what you mean. Nothing falls to zero, so I think I am OK. Maybe I can get some local help, and borrow an AFM. I am gonna test out my N/A AFM to see if the values are similar. I know I can't use it for the T2, but maybe I can get a better Idea on how these things work.
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