Yay for Rx-7 electrical...
Yay for Rx-7 electrical...
Just picked up a multimeter...
i put in the working sunroof, and i went to test it
I had cranked it open earlier and it closed shut fine when i pressed the button.
However, it would not open, and then a anoying constant buzz/beep noise came on. Also the rear wiper started going.
I checked to make sure the rear wiper switch hadn't accidently been bumped durring these adventures and it hadden't - it was switched off. That didn't seem to halt my possesed rear wiper.
I also pondered that since the sun roof controls are up there with the dome light, perhaps there is a short or something that no only is messing with the rear wiper, but the sun roof and the "ROOM" fuze as well (none of the interior lights are working, and the fuze keeps blowing - but they WERE working when i first got the car 3 months ago or so - that's when i noticed the previous owner had put a 20 where the 7.5 goes...)
Yea for electrical gremlins.
I guess as soon as i take care of these problems i can send off the other components like window switches, clock/idiot lights, heat/ac cluster thingy, etc to Icemark to do.
THEN my car will finally be all better =)
Thanks for any input you can provide, and if any other information is required that i missed let me know.
~Erik
i put in the working sunroof, and i went to test it
I had cranked it open earlier and it closed shut fine when i pressed the button.
However, it would not open, and then a anoying constant buzz/beep noise came on. Also the rear wiper started going.
I checked to make sure the rear wiper switch hadn't accidently been bumped durring these adventures and it hadden't - it was switched off. That didn't seem to halt my possesed rear wiper.
I also pondered that since the sun roof controls are up there with the dome light, perhaps there is a short or something that no only is messing with the rear wiper, but the sun roof and the "ROOM" fuze as well (none of the interior lights are working, and the fuze keeps blowing - but they WERE working when i first got the car 3 months ago or so - that's when i noticed the previous owner had put a 20 where the 7.5 goes...)
Yea for electrical gremlins.
I guess as soon as i take care of these problems i can send off the other components like window switches, clock/idiot lights, heat/ac cluster thingy, etc to Icemark to do.
THEN my car will finally be all better =)
Thanks for any input you can provide, and if any other information is required that i missed let me know.
~Erik
Get the wiring schematics for the sunroof from the FSM wiring manual-
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
Heck, pull up everything that the room fuse feeds too- clock, ign key reminder/CPU, interior/spot lights, door switches, courtesy lights, cargo room light, hatchback door switches, alarm, and radio (notice that sunroof is fed by a different fuse- the 15A "sunroof")
In some ways, a short is easier to troubleshoot than an open, depending on the complexity of the circuit. Start disconnecting plugs or components for all of the circuits that you can get to, then reinstall a 7.5A fuse into the room circuit. If it blows again, it's something you haven't disconnected yet. If it doesn't blow, start plugging things back in until it blows. You just found your bad animal or circuit branch when she blows. Try to "ops check" the circuit (energize whatever circuit you just plugged back in).
Don't use a 20A in a 7.5A circuit. The 7.5A is there to protect the wiring, which by design could be overheated and damaged with more than 7.5A flowing through it. If a 20A seems to work, then you probably don't have a direct short to ground, rather a component (relay, motor) that's fritzing out and using too much current to accomplish its job.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
Heck, pull up everything that the room fuse feeds too- clock, ign key reminder/CPU, interior/spot lights, door switches, courtesy lights, cargo room light, hatchback door switches, alarm, and radio (notice that sunroof is fed by a different fuse- the 15A "sunroof")
In some ways, a short is easier to troubleshoot than an open, depending on the complexity of the circuit. Start disconnecting plugs or components for all of the circuits that you can get to, then reinstall a 7.5A fuse into the room circuit. If it blows again, it's something you haven't disconnected yet. If it doesn't blow, start plugging things back in until it blows. You just found your bad animal or circuit branch when she blows. Try to "ops check" the circuit (energize whatever circuit you just plugged back in).
Don't use a 20A in a 7.5A circuit. The 7.5A is there to protect the wiring, which by design could be overheated and damaged with more than 7.5A flowing through it. If a 20A seems to work, then you probably don't have a direct short to ground, rather a component (relay, motor) that's fritzing out and using too much current to accomplish its job.
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yeah, i didn't put the 20 in there, i found it there when the lights stopped coming on and i thought to check the fuze. I'll start tracking down the problem tomorrow.
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alfred1976
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Dec 3, 2015 03:06 AM



