The hummmming is the BAC doing its duty cycle. Normal. MIght unplug it to see if the hummm goes away. Not important.

Good. 12v at the black/yellow, so you have pwr to the coils, IF you remembered to reconnect that plug after checking for the 12vdc. Hope you did prior to spinning the cas gear.

The clicking probably was the primary fuel injectors. That's good and so is the 5v at the brown/white at the pressure sensor. ECU seems ok.

CAS seems ok since the injectors clicked when the cas gear was spun.

Got me. The LEAD coil MUST be bolted to the chassis. It uses the coil assy frame to the chassis frame for the ignitor gnd. IF you lay a working cars lead coil on some rags with none of it touching the frame/chassis, the coil won't work.

And NO, don't go adding a gnd to the lead coil. Just bolted down with even one stud/nut would do the job.

I'm puzzled a bit. I'd probably ohm out that OTHER wire in the small, white, two socket plug at the lead coil assy, back to the ECU plug. I'll look for which plug and pin on the ECU. Later.

LATER: I looked and the OTHER wire in that two socket plug is Green/Yellow and ends at pin 1H of the ECU where it is still a Green/Yellow wire. Should be on the bottom row , fourth pin counting from the far right. Just ohm it out from the enigne bay to the ECU. Should be less than one ohm. Your going to have to find a long meter lead or put a long piece of wire on one meter lead so it'll reach the ECU pin from the engnie bay.

Really odd the lead sparkplugs did not arc. Injectors seem to work. CAS causes both to work. One works the other should also. Something is odd here.

Put a trail sparkplug wire on the fender and see if it'll arc when the cas gear is spun.

OR, let me ask this, when you were trying to start the engine earlier, did you see the tach needle just bump up several times while the starter was engaged? Should have. Would mean it's getting the 12vdc and the trail plugs ARE firing. Tach won't budge inless the trails are a sparking.

 

And yes, you ohm'd out the cas right. Red is common to both reluctors inside the cas. The FSM gives the value. I THINK it's like 200 or 220 ohms. If the primarys were clicking then I'd go no further with this thought.

I've gotta re-read this thread. Seems you tried someone elses coils in this bad car and the bad cars coils in the other car and the other car started.

I'm lost for now.

 

thanks for trying... just don't give up yet. I am still at work. It will be a long night for me. I am going to work on the car first thing tomorrow since I am taking the day off. I will post the result of the ground wires under the manifold and double check the sparks.

Thanks again.

 

Hailers or anyone keeping track,

**UPDATE**

Well it has been a back breaking day but this is what is going on so far. Checked all the grounds (literally all that I could see). They all have been cleaned, buff, greased and reconnected. However we did find two shorts on wires. One on the + wire from the battery and one on the two cables coming out of the MAIN fuse. Both have been fixed. We did the spark test again with the spare CAS and now we get one (1) spark. If we cut the key off and back on we will get one spark again and so forth.

Well now we have removed the entire wire harness (passenger side) to check for any burns, cuts or shorts. Even if the problem gets resolved from this side, I still want to remove the drivers side harness to double check.

Anyways.. any suggestions are always welcomed!

Thanks.
Rey

 

I'll bet its your ecu i went threw the exact same thing. I had 12v all around, my cranks sensor worked but the ecu didnt give a pulse signal. I'm on my 3rd ecu now.

 

one spark right when you turn your key means BLOWN ECU. At least thats what my problem was. i either blew it when i used a test light to test the coil pack or it was when i test my injectors. Anyway since then i have replaced the ECU and I now have full spark

 

Thanks freak but we tried the ECU on a different TII and it starts and runs well on the other car. Wiring harness is out and so far the passangers side harness looks good. We will continue the search!!!

 

Well, Mark has assured me that the alarm system does not has the ability to shut down the spark from the coils (just the starter). So.. I am still in limbo.

The passengers wire harness checked out to be in excellent conditions and we did not find any cuts, burns or broken wires. Almost thought about selling the whole car for parts (just for a second).

So. Debating on checking drivers side harness.

Question::: Since now I am getting 1 lovely spark. Could the culprit be a sensor ?? If I get one spark the system obviously works right? So how many sensors would have the capability of shutting down the ecu's signal after the first spark??? Just trying to think outside the box since the the box seems pretty small right about now.

Any help??>??

 

You only get one spark when you attach a spare cas to the harness and spin the bottom cas gear??????????

You really need a digital meter and then go to the boost sensor wire to see if you have 5vdc on the brown/white plug . Remove the plug and turn the key to ON when you do that.

 

Hailers,

I do have a Digital meter.

Re-checked the Brown/White wire from the boost sensor and I do have 5 VDC.

Yes I am only getting one (1) spark once I turn the gear on the spare CAS. Once that spark goes I do not get any more no matter how many times I turn the gear.

If I turn the key off and re-turn it back to ON and turn the gear I get one more spark.

Hmmmm???

Any ideas??

 

Hailers or anyone keeping track..

i was on NJ the last two days and got to meet some cool rotary ppl. Anyway, they are suggesting that the culprit might be the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is not throwing enough compression it messes with the cpu???

Don't know but right now I will believe anything. Anyone heard of anything like this???

Rey

 

These may be nice rotary people, but it's as much the fuel pump as it is the muffler bearings or the blinker fluid

Go to chapter 4A of the FSM, pages 29-32. Check the voltages on all the pins of the ECU and see if that sheds some light on the problem. Link is in my sig.

*EDIT* just checked your profile, the above is for S4NA! let me check the FSM for 89-91 TII...will be right back! see chapter F2 starting page 76...

 

Santos,

Will check all the voltages as suggested. Did this process already 3 times but, we'll see.

Thanks for the input. We'll let you know tomorrow!

Rey

 

Holly Sparks Batman, The testy 7 finally..... started!!!

I am including this because if anyone runs into a similar problem this might hopefully save someone some serious time and aggravation.

Well to make the story short. The CAS wires were wrong. My friend had replaced the plug with a new one, since the one I had was messed up. I am told the plug he replaced was from a S4 and even though the wire colors match, the position in which they correspond to the CAS don't. So. there lies the reason behind my 3 year nightmare!. Car is starting now but the idle is really high and can't be controlled yet. We are going back to check for any vacuum leaks and hopefully that would take care of that.

Wow, what a freaking day!!!.... Thanks to all that try to help. This site is awesome with support!!!