hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

Well my car is set to dip low 13's ... but the trans is preventing that from coming any where near that. The transmission is a S5 T2 Trans.

So heres a list of problems

1. I have tried to adjust the pedal everywhich way and the pedal still engages about .5" off the floor .. and has a range of 1" total of engagement/disengagement. I adjusted it to FSM specs with no luck, and then adjusted it all the way out, in, etc etc.

FIRST GEAR
- The car will go in first gear 1/5 times when putting it in from neutral (no problem shifting in while the car is still rolling). The other 3/5 times the car has to be put into 3rd and then taken out ... revved up a bit ... and then into first. The other 1/5 times the car will lock out and not let me in first. See #1 above ..... while at a light the clutch pedal/engagement point is so fucked up that when its in first and i rev the car a little .... the car will jump forward, instead of allowing me to feather it out a little to inch up to the line at the light.

SECOND GEAR
- I can shift into second but it takes some finesse. It wont grind .. but you can feel it being notchy going in. Additionally I have to slam the clutch pedal (instead of how you can usually casually push it down and put it in). Every so often the car will not shift into second from first ... and i need to repush the clutch in. Downshifting from third is not a problem.

THIRD GEAR
- I can always get it in if I power shift it ... but this results in some nasty grindage. Every time I go to regularly shift in the gear I have to search for "the sweet spot". Downshifting into third is a bit of a finesse act as well.

FOURTH GEAR
- Not really a problem aside from the occasional having to push the clutch in again after getting out of third (i.e. double clutching). Fifth gear into fourth gear is no problem.

FIFTH GEAR
- No problem here

**** Rev matching/revving the car a bit with the clutch SLAMMED on the floor will help a bit more with downshifts



I currently have a heavy duty pressure plate, and an act stage 2 4 puck clutch. I believe the flywheel is stock. These components came off the t2 donor car.

So what do you guys think? Is the trans fried, bad clutch fork, bad bearing (i would hear it if it was this though), flywheel toast, pressure plate went byby???

HELP ME OUT HERE ... This problem is really turning me off from driving my car sigh.

Jaiyurai

iTrader: (30)

did you replace all the bearings?

Throwout bearing and pilot bushing?

Also check your clutch master and slave for any leaks or air bubbles.

Had something similiar but on my Nissan. Turned out to be a bad aftermarket throwout bearing.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

likely a hydraulic problem

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

go with a new master and slave cylinder, and bleed properly. If that doesn't help, then I would go with a new pilot bearing and a rebuilt or low mile tranny at the same time.

I had my s5 t2 tranny rebuilt before assembling the car, as well as new slave/master and clutch/tob/pilot bearing...the trans really only needed 2 and 5 gear synchros which cost a bit over $100. This thing is like BUTTER...it is just slightly notchy when cold, but it never grinds or anything...it's like NEW. I have a little over 300 bucks in the whole deal.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

I forgot to add on that i hae a brand new slave, master, and ss hose

Dom_C

clutch fork pivot. I had the same exact problem a few years ago. I replaced that and the clutch fork at the same time and never had a problem again.

RETed

And you're asking us why you're having problems shifting???


-Ted

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

Ted I should also add that I HATE DOING THIS ... and only do it in severe cases where i have no other option to get it into gear.

stuntingshaggy

honestly to me it sounds like a hydraulic problem.

I went through the same hardships not even a month ago where I would have to try three, four, even five times just to get it into first!

It's generally easier going up through the gears but my master cylinder got so bad that I couldn't even put it in gear and I had to tow it home. I bought a new slave cylinder and replaced it with no improvement. I proceeded to purchase a new master cylinder and after bleeding it multiple times it worked like a charm.

Anywho, for your problem I want to say slave or master cylinder but don't rule other things out as a possibility. Are you getting any pressure at all on the pedal? When you push it does it just stay down or does it come back up?

Can you hold keep the clutch depressed in 1st gear at a light or does it seem to stall almost like it's engaging itself?

Chief

i would definitely agree with this, i think we have all been there a time or two, i recently replaced my clutch master and slave for the same problems.

this would be my next idea, if you are POSITIVE its not a hydraulic problem, and if you are certain you have the correct clutch and/or pressure plate for your car.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you do have a T2 slave cylinder on it right?

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

i ordered it from discount auto parts and the part numbers were the same .... im taking my car over to aamco on monday and will update everyone on whats going on with it

clubber

If you mean that the part #'s were the same for slave cylinders then look elsewhere. The turbo and NA's are similar but definately NOT the same. They aren't a lot of money from a dealer ($75 is close).

arghx

iTrader: (3)

so they didn't replace any of the bearings? every time i get a quote for rebuilding a tranny it includes replacing bearings and synchros and it runs like $800, assuming no hard parts are bad

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

It's a local friend of mine who does the rebuilding...he works from home most of the time, it's not a big shop or anything. He said everything looked fine on mine other than 2 and 5, which are the weak points of the turbo trannies.