WannaSeeMyWankel

I have searched like crazy, and all I could find was "This is for a S5 non turbo, but others should be similar" I want a 13BTII specific writeup on removing the rats nest. Thanks guys

Whizbang

me too. i am going to end up doing a 13b-rew swap and need to know what changed over 7 years.

SureShot

You need to keep only:
Air bleeds for the oil & fuel injectors.
Fuel pressure regulator can be a short direct hose from the manifold.
The pressure line that T's to the CPV & the pressure sensor.
The oil pan vent (on the filler neck) to the canister or a catch can.
The boost control line from the compressor to the waste gate (with the stock boost controller or your own).
I used the bottom front nipple on the TB for my mechanical boost gauge.

jimmyv13

I searched and found this:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=nest

WannaSeeMyWankel

Now...to make life more difficult...what are the differences for the rats nest removal between the J-Spec and the A-Spec?

wyt r1ce

looks like you need 4 nipples? is that right?

the oilcatch is that optional? just connect straight through if not going to use?

ilike2eatricers

That diagram is pretty self explanatory. I used the angled nipple on the inside of the LIM for the FPR. Everything else I pretty much did the same as the diagram above.
I've been running no oil catch can and I'm doing fine.

WannaSeeMyWankel

Question: On that big picture up there ^ it shows a nipple on top of the UIM that goes to the Pressure sensor and the air bypass valve. Mine doenst have a nipple on top of the UIM, but I do have one directly under the BAC...will that woprk or am I using that for something else?

rotaryracer1

iTrader: (1)

I am also looking to do this to my 88t2 and was wondering if i would be taking off the BAC and ACV along with the rats nest? when do block off plates come into play?

ilike2eatricers

That is the correct one. It just looks in a different place on that exploded diagram.

The BAC is normally only removed if you the the full TB mod. It helps the engine hold idle under load from AC and PS so if you have these or plan to keep them I would keep the BAC. The ACV on the other hand is useless once you remove your airpump and you can use a blockoff plate for that.

REFLUX

k now I'm REALLY confused
look at this diagram off 1300cc.net:


the main difference is where the Catch Can goes & what to do with the associated plumbing
so which one is RIGHT???

ilike2eatricers

I havent run a catch can for 3k miles now and no problems.

REFLUX

bump for more answers

WannaSeeMyWankel

another question, the vac nipples that are directly next to the secondary injectors (the angled nipples).......do i cap those or do i run a line to somewhere?

WannaSeeMyWankel

aren't these to help atomize the fuel or something?

SureShot

You want to keep the air lines for all 4 injectors.
If you are running the MOP, then you need those air lines also.

WannaSeeMyWankel

i premix....so what's up with these nipples? cap 'em orrun them somewhere?

WannaSeeMyWankel

BUMP for more answers

Im talking about the angled nipples on the bottom of the LIM that are right underneath the secondary injectors. I heard somewhere that the vacuum helps atomize the fuel better...

ilike2eatricers

Take a picture. I'm thinking you are talking about the subzero cold start assist (not sure if that's the right name) that mazda said to rip out of the car as a service bulletin since you said nipples. Is it kinda gold/bronze colored and have 2 nipples in a U shape? I've only seen one before so dont remember it too well.

Madrx7racer

wish the pics still worked though.....all I got was 1

SureShot

You want to keep the air lines for all 4 fuel injectors.

SureShot

You want to keep the air lines to all 4 fuel injectors.

WannaSeeMyWankel

air lines to the injectors

does anyone have a pic of a bare lim?

wyt r1ce

so whats up with the diagram if you keep the OMP anything change?

torean

air lines for the fuel injectors?...wtf.....im confused....did u mean the OMP injectors?....