Write Up: Anti-Lock Brake Delete
#1
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Write Up: Anti-Lock Brake Delete
The 20 year old ABS pump is ancient tech and most likely doesn't work anymore. Mine almost killed me and ate all the paint on my passenger frame rail. These are very prone to failure on turbo models due to all the heat generated. Even worse if either model is missing the heat shields.
To remove the pump loosen the three Front brake lines and two Rear on the ABS unit with a 10mm wrench.
Unscrew the 3 10mm bolts holding the pump in place.
Unplug the two electrical connections.
Remove the final 5 10mm bolts from the bracket and pull that out.
Now how to eliminate the need for ABS. It isn't pretty, but it gets the job done. Mazdatrix sells a kit that costs $50 shipped. If you are like the average broke FC owner, that is way too much. They use stock parts. The 3 way Tee for the rear brakes and a front brake line vinyl line. Those can be snagged at a junk yard/part's car for almost nothing. The Tee is located on the driver side rear wheel well. It is bolted to the frame with a 10mm bolt.
If you look at the pump the bottom right line is marked R.
Use the brake hose to connect that line to the line that was connected to the back of the unit.
Use the 3 way Tee to tie the rest of the lines together. Don't be afraid the bend the lines with your hand. Mine were easily pliable and did not require a line bender.
This is how it was on my 89 Turbo model. If you are not sure follow the lines from the master cylinder. The front three are teed with the block and the rear two are linked with the hose.
Pull your carpet up on the passanger floor under the dash. You'll have to remove the kick panel and door sill.
Pull the ECU guard cover and you'll see a long rectangle box next to the ECU. It has a large blue plug. Remove it.
last step is to bleed your brakes. If you want to tidy everything up you can remove the ABS CPU wires and sensors from the front brakes.
To remove the pump loosen the three Front brake lines and two Rear on the ABS unit with a 10mm wrench.
Unscrew the 3 10mm bolts holding the pump in place.
Unplug the two electrical connections.
Remove the final 5 10mm bolts from the bracket and pull that out.
Now how to eliminate the need for ABS. It isn't pretty, but it gets the job done. Mazdatrix sells a kit that costs $50 shipped. If you are like the average broke FC owner, that is way too much. They use stock parts. The 3 way Tee for the rear brakes and a front brake line vinyl line. Those can be snagged at a junk yard/part's car for almost nothing. The Tee is located on the driver side rear wheel well. It is bolted to the frame with a 10mm bolt.
If you look at the pump the bottom right line is marked R.
Use the brake hose to connect that line to the line that was connected to the back of the unit.
Use the 3 way Tee to tie the rest of the lines together. Don't be afraid the bend the lines with your hand. Mine were easily pliable and did not require a line bender.
This is how it was on my 89 Turbo model. If you are not sure follow the lines from the master cylinder. The front three are teed with the block and the rear two are linked with the hose.
Pull your carpet up on the passanger floor under the dash. You'll have to remove the kick panel and door sill.
Pull the ECU guard cover and you'll see a long rectangle box next to the ECU. It has a large blue plug. Remove it.
last step is to bleed your brakes. If you want to tidy everything up you can remove the ABS CPU wires and sensors from the front brakes.
#3
Hi iv got a few questions maybe you can answer.
My s5 t2 brakes (with abs and no leaks, abs light comes on now and then) dont feel like they have as much power to stop the car than my old s5 n/a that has no abs and had a much better pedal feel.
Now i want to swap the n/a brakes to the t2 but im thinking maybe somthing else is wrong somwhere in the t2s brake system, I dont really want to remove the abs but the non abs is so much simpler and i have all the parts in my drive.
Basicly what im asking is should abs brakes stop me quicker than non abs?
I think il get my brakes checked at a shop before i do anything as im sure there must be somthing wrong.
Would you have done the swap if your abs pump wasnt leaking and are your brakes better now?
My s5 t2 brakes (with abs and no leaks, abs light comes on now and then) dont feel like they have as much power to stop the car than my old s5 n/a that has no abs and had a much better pedal feel.
Now i want to swap the n/a brakes to the t2 but im thinking maybe somthing else is wrong somwhere in the t2s brake system, I dont really want to remove the abs but the non abs is so much simpler and i have all the parts in my drive.
Basicly what im asking is should abs brakes stop me quicker than non abs?
I think il get my brakes checked at a shop before i do anything as im sure there must be somthing wrong.
Would you have done the swap if your abs pump wasnt leaking and are your brakes better now?
#4
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my brakes are great now. I like being able to lock them up so the answer is yes. I didn't even give my last s5 t2 a chance. had a Mazdatrix kit and tossed the box. I had to swap downpipes on my current car and it was a royal pain with the unit in the way. I was too broke to get their kit this time and I remembered a piece on a FC I scrapped that looked like the tee used on their site. Turns out it was the same one.
#5
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Hi iv got a few questions maybe you can answer.
My s5 t2 brakes (with abs and no leaks, abs light comes on now and then) dont feel like they have as much power to stop the car than my old s5 n/a that has no abs and had a much better pedal feel.
Now i want to swap the n/a brakes to the t2 but im thinking maybe somthing else is wrong somwhere in the t2s brake system, I dont really want to remove the abs but the non abs is so much simpler and i have all the parts in my drive.
Basicly what im asking is should abs brakes stop me quicker than non abs?
I think il get my brakes checked at a shop before i do anything as im sure there must be somthing wrong.
Would you have done the swap if your abs pump wasnt leaking and are your brakes better now?
My s5 t2 brakes (with abs and no leaks, abs light comes on now and then) dont feel like they have as much power to stop the car than my old s5 n/a that has no abs and had a much better pedal feel.
Now i want to swap the n/a brakes to the t2 but im thinking maybe somthing else is wrong somwhere in the t2s brake system, I dont really want to remove the abs but the non abs is so much simpler and i have all the parts in my drive.
Basicly what im asking is should abs brakes stop me quicker than non abs?
I think il get my brakes checked at a shop before i do anything as im sure there must be somthing wrong.
Would you have done the swap if your abs pump wasnt leaking and are your brakes better now?
Walken had a *broken* unit. He took his off and that's all OK.
First of all, no the N/A brakes are not better. Your TII brakes are better, or at least the same, depending on the model or your N/A. If your TII brakes are not working right, fix them. When is the last time you fully bled the brakes? Is your booster operating properly? Are all your calipers working properly? Are your pads a *quality* pad? All of these things are important to have properly functioning brakes.
Don't take out a perfectly functioning safety system. It doesn't matter what someone tells you, there is no situation, other than packed snow or deep gravel, that will benefit by having non-ABS brakes-ON THE STREET.
Here is one other reason: No one likes to buy an hacked-up car. You have an S5 Turbo with functioning ABS. This is one of the rarest FC models. It will surely be worth less with the brakes hacked-up.
Good Luck!
#6
I bought the car last year, drove about 150 miles to pick it up, 1990 turbo2 55k miles completly stock, average condition i paid £950.
The drive home was great no problems smooth and it felt so much quicker than my previous n/a but the brakes didnt have much feel and its hard to explain but they just felt weaker.
The next day i had a good look round the car went for a drive and the clutch started slipping! Nice one.
It has quite bad rust holes in the floor badly fixed with filler which i didnt notice aswell as black engine oil and very dark looking brake fluid.
So the car was parked in the garage and has been there since!
My brakes have obviosly been neglected and need attention like the rest of the car!
So far iv put on a new clutch, turbo back exhaust,fcd, boost gauge, walbro 255, safc, k&n drop in air filter, and in the process of the 60k tune up right now.
Its just i remember my non abs n/a to have much better brakes and i dont think i ever locked up my wheels to the point of it being dangerous, also i have a nearly new n/a master cylinder and recon front calipers and new front discs.
Jesus im going on and on!
So il get the brakes serviced when i get my welding done and see what difference that makes.
The drive home was great no problems smooth and it felt so much quicker than my previous n/a but the brakes didnt have much feel and its hard to explain but they just felt weaker.
The next day i had a good look round the car went for a drive and the clutch started slipping! Nice one.
It has quite bad rust holes in the floor badly fixed with filler which i didnt notice aswell as black engine oil and very dark looking brake fluid.
So the car was parked in the garage and has been there since!
My brakes have obviosly been neglected and need attention like the rest of the car!
So far iv put on a new clutch, turbo back exhaust,fcd, boost gauge, walbro 255, safc, k&n drop in air filter, and in the process of the 60k tune up right now.
Its just i remember my non abs n/a to have much better brakes and i dont think i ever locked up my wheels to the point of it being dangerous, also i have a nearly new n/a master cylinder and recon front calipers and new front discs.
Jesus im going on and on!
So il get the brakes serviced when i get my welding done and see what difference that makes.
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