2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

WOW. cheap metal. pissed

Old Nov 15, 2007 | 08:42 AM
  #26  
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I have four in mine.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 08:49 AM
  #27  
87 t-66's Avatar
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
I like the Fumoto F106 regular valve for $22.95.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=17
thats pretty sweet actually
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #28  
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ahem. anyone know if they sell aluminum oil pans? i have only found steel. if so please link.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #29  
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Would something like this work? I've used these twice with great success, except I couldn't get the bolt back out of the socket. craftsman bolt-out
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by texFCturboII
I agree that welding NEAR oil won't cause it to burn, but busting through the 1/16" or 1/8" pan and exposing the oil with enough heat to melt steel will cause combustion. All it takes is one miss.....
oil is flamible not explosive. there is a differance.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 12:55 PM
  #31  
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Just vice grip that bitch and get a new drain plug?
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 01:48 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by carbonRX
ahem. anyone know if they sell aluminum oil pans? i have only found steel. if so please link.
Pineapple racing makes them.

But if you're having trouble with the OEM drain plug - good luck with the Pineapple aluminum bitch. Only one of mine was "undo-able" right out of the box. They're flush style, allen key type plugs, so one slip and its stripped.
I've since been draining from the single rear plug, and also have experienced minor seepage through the pores in the casting.

Not worth the money as an owner of one. A much better and less porous version could be made cheaper by anyone with aluminum welding talent and a sheet of 18 gauge AL.
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