this may be a dumb question...but i want some serious answers.


there is a guy that showed up last night to the races with a stock 94 FD. another forum member was their w/ his TURBO II and he said to the guy nice FD. The guy didn't even know what an FD was.

im not a total retard, i know an FD is a SERIOUS sports car. last night it smoked the **** out of a eclipse gs-t with boosted up PSI.

but anyway here is my question.

i dont have enough money for an FD and i know i should sell my NA for a turbo II and mod it like crazy to have a chance, but before i do that is it possible to have an NA keep up with an FD in a drag race.

i know a bridgeport makes the car hard to drive on the streets, but wouldnt that put me at 240 or so BHP???

so would i even come close w/ a bridgeport, full exhaust, intake, weight reduction???

 

i also want to add that drag racing isnt my favorite thing because it puts the great handling of our cars to waste and our cars werent exactly made for it, but i just want to know how to come close or beat this guy with the stock FD that knows nothing about it.

 

If you threw every bolt on at it, and removed everything that creates parasitic drag (AC, PS, air pump, fan) get an electric fan, straight pipe exhaust, and then got a monster port job that made the car completely unstreetable, then you might have a chance of keeping up with a bone stock FD. It would help if you were a better driver than him. In my opinion, it wouldn't be worth it.

 

Yes a bridgport and complete intake and exahust u should hang or even beat him. I think the weight reduction is the biggest factor. In fact I dont think u need a bridge port. Go for a street port. This guy on here who had a street port in his N/A ran 13.9 and stock FDs will do 14. flat with a good driver. Some say 13.8 but Probly very very rarely and under perfect conditions. So street port is your best cheapest and most drivable choice. My theory on beating higher hp cars is this. For every 100pds weight reduction u gain 1/10 in the 1/4. 10ms probly takes a good 10bhp to achieve. So 400 weight reduction is like a simulated 40 hp or almost a half second off your 1/4. So if u can make sayyyy 210 bhp with a streetport wich should be easy , then after weight reduction u can say around 250hp wich should then hang with a 3rd gen.

 

you CAN do it, but it's so much easier to do it to a TurboII

 

One word: T-88. Anything can be done with enough cash....

 

Say HP for HP the turbo u think would win but the reason why the 2nd gen would hang is because of the revs. With those mods u can rev to 9000 rpms.

 

My car does 14-14.2....
I drova a stock FD a few months ago, and it would have blown my car out of the water.
Those numbers post a few back don't add up to me...

 

Nice street port with the appropriate supporting mods like full exhaust (no cats) and intake PLUS a stand-alone ECU like a Haltech would put it very close.&nbsp Loosing a little weight, and you should be right in the mid-13 second 1/4-mile range, which is what an FD does.

If the FD has any mods, it's going to take radical mods to touch that thing.&nbsp We're talking BP, PP, or NOS!



-Ted

 

i have a 12a bridgeport wit holley 600 in an 85 body and i beat a third gen once... i run 13.8 wit goooooooooooooooood tires!!!! and a good launch...
its not that hard to beat it through the 1/4 but on the highway he has u where he wants u..

 

I think those 1/4mi times were correct. I have only heard of stock FD's runnin 14.0-.2. It prolly felt like it would kill your car because of the TT setup. Something that has to do with that was prolly throwing your senses off. I have never seen, personally, a stock FD run a 13.xxx. I know it can be done with absolute perfect weather, tire pres, etc. They are sweet little machines man, I want one someday.

 

I bet you're not on the "big list". If you mention this, a bunch of guys will get their panties in a bunch for saying this. There's a few who have ran anywhere from a 13.4 to a 13.2 for "dead stock" on an FD...



-Ted

 

Well if you really want to get into it, there is an easy way for an FC to beat a stock FD. I saw it last nigt. Drop and LS1 motor in the FC and run 12's.

Zips up flame suite. Let the cries of sacrilidge begin. I know, it's an abomination in the face of god, but it is the truth, and N/A.

 

Torque is deceptive.

 

I know SOMEONE who has a 200+hp N/A in his 1st-gen... that should be enough to roast a stock FD... and that's not even with a ported engine!

i'm shooting for low 13's with an all-motor, daily driven car

 

peejay exactly.. u cant sleep on the n/a's... the twin turbo setup maybe sophisticated but as well as complicated...here in orlando theres a 3rd gen with the ol skool setup.. bridge port 4 bbl holley 13b on nos... smokin regular fd's

 

If you had 200 RWHP, I would say you could probably beat his stock FD. Depending on driver etc of course.

Depending on year, you are making about 120-130 RWHP stock, so many mods are going to be needed if you decide to go with normal aspiration

 

I posted a reply, 15 minutes later it's gone... ???

(going all over again) I don't mean 200rwhp, I mean 200hp. My '80 would run with stock T2s and I only ever put down 130-140bhp (110-120 or RWHP) You don't need as much power if you're light enough! (In my case 2400lb with driver!)

I figure I can get my new car down to 2500lb with driver... at that level I'll only need 250hp to get comfortably in the 12's... so when I "only" make 220 or so HP I'll be running low 13's, almost good enough to hang with Mustangs and definitely enough to hang with FDs. See most of it is driver skill... and the guys with FDs just treat them like garage ornaments, and only come out to the track maybe once a year or two just so they can see what it does... then you get funny **** like modded FDs running low 14's

 

You can do it definitely. I mean you want in the mid 13s as your goal. With a streetport, full exhaust/intake, weight removed & a 50 wet shot of N2O I would say you would be in that range you want.

 

Bambam... who were u talking to ... 13.9 is what CNRCRX claimed. Thats not exactly his SN but close. He also had a boosted honda doing 11s. And 13.2 stock 3rd Gen. If that was true then car stats would be a little closer to that. Unfortuanatly not. And yes torque is decieving. This is how I know. My friend would take me for a spin in his 97 miata with intake and exaust. It starts real quick and he can CHIRP the tires in third gear, my head will jerk back when he downshifts. Im impressed and didnt ever think my 89GXL could take him. We raced alot and I take him always even with my VDI closed I still pull on him and I cant even chirp in second. So whats that tell u. Go with the numbers on the screen. Your 14.-14.2 and so are most stock 3rd gens. So u can hang, trust me.

 

That's not "all motor".

However a 12A half-bridge should meet my power goals with ease Heck I might even dip into the 12's if I continue running a dump pipe.

And then put a 1/3rd bridge (5th and 6th ports only) in my FC... wonder if it would work well enough with an automatic?

 

I'm suprised no one has said anything about traction. You don't have traction, he's going to beat you even if you have a peripheral. With 195/50/15s, the best my peripheral off the nitrous did was a 13.9@10.9.27. Just to much hp, and no traction. My stock FD....i mean bone stock with 45k miles on it, turned a 13.6xx@101.96.

keep in mind, the more you build a n/a engine, the higher the hp, but higher up in the rpm band it'll make the hp....therefore it'll be harder to bring off the line.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but its going to be near impossiable.

My stock FD weighed in at 2780lbs by the way on a certified scale, at my work.

Good luck, because you're going to need it. CJ

 

sorry, the pp engine ran a 13.9@109.27mph

 

Yeah but your peripheral was in a TRUCK... nice way to leave some of the facts out

Besides, you were running 195/50s... low profile tires SUCK if you want traction. Some people still don't believe me but you want the smallest diameter rim, tallest/softest sidewall that you can get under your car. Of course you also need to have a decent compound, too! But still... the best I could do on stiff sidewall, huge DOT-R's was in the 2.4 range and they broke traction fairly easily, I put econo 70-series supersquish tires on and dropped an easy 3 tenths at the 60'!

Another thing that hurts 60' times is SuperUltraMega clutches. No no no no no! You want something that gives off the line, so the tires don't spin! The clutch is designed to slip, then hook, tires aren't! Once tires start spinning it's very hard to get them to stop. So when you launch with a weak clutch, the clutch slips down then grabs, the tires never break free. With a too-strong clutch, the clutch grabs and the tires break free and you're sitting there at the starting line making a smokeshow but going nowhere! Even the domestic guys find that their cars get generally SLOWER when they go to a super beefy clutch, and they have to launch at insane RPM to keep from bogging, and end up breaking a lot of stuff.

 

Sorry p-jay, this was in my last 1990 gtu. CJ