Would my car start without intake pipe
08-11-18, 05:12 PM
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Would my car start without intake pipe
Hello and thanks for stopping by my post I was wondering would the car start without the intake pipes connected the previous owner did a horrible job and used wrong pipes so I took them off.. reason of why I'm asking is because I had to change my water pump so I decided to flush the motor of the old water also and put new coolant flush the radiator change all the heater hoses and coolant hoses because of corrosion so would the can turn over of should I not try because it can hurt the motor by the way it's a t2 swap into a convertible
08-11-18, 09:11 PM
#6
Well, it's a rather lazily written post all round, really.
All of that intake pipe nonsense is totally irrelevant to what the OP really needs to do, which is flush the cooling loop.
Pull out the thermostat, make sure the heat is set to HOT and then stick a hose in the rad and start douching away.
Depending on how gunked up it is, there are a couple of drain spots on the keg/shortblock that you can use and if you're really into it, you can isolate the heater core and the radiator and deal with them separately.
After you think the system is clean, reassemble and fill with distilled water...THEN get it running and bring to operating temp.
If all looks good, drain and fill with whatever coolant mix you prefer.
All of that intake pipe nonsense is totally irrelevant to what the OP really needs to do, which is flush the cooling loop.
Pull out the thermostat, make sure the heat is set to HOT and then stick a hose in the rad and start douching away.
Depending on how gunked up it is, there are a couple of drain spots on the keg/shortblock that you can use and if you're really into it, you can isolate the heater core and the radiator and deal with them separately.
After you think the system is clean, reassemble and fill with distilled water...THEN get it running and bring to operating temp.
If all looks good, drain and fill with whatever coolant mix you prefer.
08-11-18, 09:37 PM
#7
I have used the Prestone super flush before and it most certainly does a good job at flushing out *a lot* of trash from the system vs a regular flush with water. The instructions, from memory, instruct you to drive around for a few days with the flush product in the engine..but I only felt comfortable driving around for about an hour before flushing the system many, many times with water and finally doing several flushes with distilled water before refilling the system. I wanted to make sure there was no trace of the flush product.
Don't ask me to go into detail about why I wasnt comfortable leaving the stuff in for too long. I'll simply say that my lack of understanding about what the flush chemicals might do to the different metals involved or any seals it may come into contact with resulted in me feeling too anxious to let them linger for too long.
Note that I'd done a pretty thorough flush with just water a few months before using the super flush product. It ran clear when I was done. Then I used the super flush and it was crazy the nastiness that came out of an already 'flushed' system.
You can buy hose unions with a garden hose receiver on them in order to get some good flow through the cooling system. These are at any auto parts chain.
As Clokker stated, it really is best to remove the thermostat because when it is closed, it's pretty much a dam.
I recommend buying a lisle brand 'spill free funnel kit'. It comes with various adapters, including the ones you need for an FC. It makes filling and more importantly bleeding the cooling system of air a dream. You can really work all the hoses and run the engine at various speeds to make sure all the air has been worked out. And when you're done getting the air out and let the car cool, the system will ingest the right amount of coolant as it 'contracts'.
A cooling system pressure testing kit is also handy to have. Not only can you test your radiator pressure cap for accuracy, but you can also very easily find any leaks that will only show up with the system sealed and the engine up to temperature (pressurizing the system). It also allows you to test that your coolant seals inside the engine aren't leaking.
If the heater core needs to be replaced, it can be done without removing the dashboard from the car regardless of what you read..
If you need a new radiator, I highly recommend the Koyo HH series radiator.
Don't buy cheap cooling system hoses.. I've always found they deteriorate rather quickly.
Only use a Mazda thermostat. If you choose not to use a Mazda unit, at least ensure it is the correct temperature (180 degree farenheit) and has a 'jiggle pin'.
Some waterpump housings/thermostat necks have lived hard lives. What I mean by this is that when people remove old gasket or RTV from the sealing flanges, they are not always very careful in doing so.. gouges are likely.. but more critically is that some choose to use abrasives to clean these flanges, leaving them uneven. As a result, a gasket alone or RTV alone doesn't always hold up to pressure. For peace of mind, use the gasket with a very thin skin coat of RTV on both sides of it. Let the RTV cure properly once its bolted back together and you should never have to worry about it leaking there. Overkill.. go ahead and say it.. but I find nothing wrong with it.
I personally use Mazda FL-22 coolant. I'm sure most people think it's a waste of money, but you can at least trust the quality.
I use distilled water when dealing with coolants that aren't pre-dilluted.. or if I need to adjust the ratio. It's fine to use hose water for flushes as long as your last fill, cycle, and drain (or two) are done with distilled water. Some people will argue with me that mineral deposit buildup isnt a problem when tap water is used with modern coolants, but I still smell a rat... and therefore use distilled water.
Finally, never let any sort of oil or chemical dwell on any hoses. It will greatly reduce their service life.
Hopefully this answers pretty much any question you may have that wasn't already answered by clokker.
Don't ask me to go into detail about why I wasnt comfortable leaving the stuff in for too long. I'll simply say that my lack of understanding about what the flush chemicals might do to the different metals involved or any seals it may come into contact with resulted in me feeling too anxious to let them linger for too long.
Note that I'd done a pretty thorough flush with just water a few months before using the super flush product. It ran clear when I was done. Then I used the super flush and it was crazy the nastiness that came out of an already 'flushed' system.
You can buy hose unions with a garden hose receiver on them in order to get some good flow through the cooling system. These are at any auto parts chain.
As Clokker stated, it really is best to remove the thermostat because when it is closed, it's pretty much a dam.
I recommend buying a lisle brand 'spill free funnel kit'. It comes with various adapters, including the ones you need for an FC. It makes filling and more importantly bleeding the cooling system of air a dream. You can really work all the hoses and run the engine at various speeds to make sure all the air has been worked out. And when you're done getting the air out and let the car cool, the system will ingest the right amount of coolant as it 'contracts'.
A cooling system pressure testing kit is also handy to have. Not only can you test your radiator pressure cap for accuracy, but you can also very easily find any leaks that will only show up with the system sealed and the engine up to temperature (pressurizing the system). It also allows you to test that your coolant seals inside the engine aren't leaking.
If the heater core needs to be replaced, it can be done without removing the dashboard from the car regardless of what you read..
If you need a new radiator, I highly recommend the Koyo HH series radiator.
Don't buy cheap cooling system hoses.. I've always found they deteriorate rather quickly.
Only use a Mazda thermostat. If you choose not to use a Mazda unit, at least ensure it is the correct temperature (180 degree farenheit) and has a 'jiggle pin'.
Some waterpump housings/thermostat necks have lived hard lives. What I mean by this is that when people remove old gasket or RTV from the sealing flanges, they are not always very careful in doing so.. gouges are likely.. but more critically is that some choose to use abrasives to clean these flanges, leaving them uneven. As a result, a gasket alone or RTV alone doesn't always hold up to pressure. For peace of mind, use the gasket with a very thin skin coat of RTV on both sides of it. Let the RTV cure properly once its bolted back together and you should never have to worry about it leaking there. Overkill.. go ahead and say it.. but I find nothing wrong with it.
I personally use Mazda FL-22 coolant. I'm sure most people think it's a waste of money, but you can at least trust the quality.
I use distilled water when dealing with coolants that aren't pre-dilluted.. or if I need to adjust the ratio. It's fine to use hose water for flushes as long as your last fill, cycle, and drain (or two) are done with distilled water. Some people will argue with me that mineral deposit buildup isnt a problem when tap water is used with modern coolants, but I still smell a rat... and therefore use distilled water.
Finally, never let any sort of oil or chemical dwell on any hoses. It will greatly reduce their service life.
Hopefully this answers pretty much any question you may have that wasn't already answered by clokker.
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08-12-18, 08:49 AM
#9
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well to be honest ace dis answer the question I needed the answer to but thanks for the extra I appreciate it
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