rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

I tried installing a Works Bell tall hub, part no. 902, tonight and had some issues. I originally got the wrong hub (909 was the only option available from miataroadster.com) and quickly received what I was told is the correct part. It's going on an '88 convertible.

I was very careful to make sure the holes on the back of the hub were lined up with the pegs on the clock spring and the arrows on and behind the clock spring lined up on the left, as well as making sure the arrow on the hub itself pointed up. The hub came with a thick crush washer that I put on behind the supplied nut and torqued to 30 ft-lbs per the Torque Specs Thread in the archives. The wheel was difficult to turn and did not return to the stock position. So I loosened it and tried again, this time stopping where the steering became difficult and turning back about 1/4 turn. This made the steering feel normal but the wheel was able to be rocked side to side. I tried a third time with just the stock nut and torqued to 30 ft-lbs, thinking the crush washer was too thick. This time the steering was just as bad. So I re-installed the stock wheel and torqued it to 30 ft-lbs with no problems, except that my turn signal no longer cancels.

The clock spring started off very easy to turn by hand and got more difficult as the attempts went on so I'm assuming I did what many others have done and crushed it.

My questions are:
1. Is it likely that I was sent the wrong part, and is anyone able to confirm that this is the correct hub?
2. How difficult is it to replace the clock spring assembly?

I did come across this thread where the stock wheel nut torque is suggested for an aftermarket hub so I don't feel like I did anything wrong by doing that: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...el-hub-865502/
And also this thread where an FD owner needed to bore out the holes in the rear of the hub. I'm hoping this isn't the case but feel like it might be worth mentioning in case someone else has had a similar experience: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...tting-1094881/

I've attached pictures of the hub, it's going to have a Mazdaspeed wheel mated to it (hopefully). Any advice would be appreciated.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I've been through this multiple times.
It has to do with the amount of torque that you put the hub on with and how far the splined shaft enters the hub.
The hub can't slide down too much or it starts to create problems.
Tightening the wheel nut bring the shaft up into the hub BUT also brings it into the car through the
steering column.Since the shaft is now being pulled into the car it is now being stressed and will not operate correctly as it will rub on anything it comes in contact with.

My wheel would not even return if I cranked it..BUT once I backed the wheel nut off..Eureka..it went back to normal.

I went as far as a thin piece of metal between the shaft taper and it seemed to fix up stuff.The hub is still OK as slides over the splines anyways so in essence the metal is like a "stop"..
it now pulls the hub to the shaft ..not the other way around.
The metal gets super squished anyways and you don't even know that it was done to put the hub on.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I believe the splines are primarily just indexing/alignment aids, the tapers are what actually hold the wheel.
Your new hub is seating further up the taper behind the splines and crushing the transfer collar between the hub and the switch on the column. This should be easily seen and measured with the column trim removed and bolting just the hub up.
Properly spaced (as the stock wheel is), that plastic transfer collar should have a wee bit of freeplay with the hub torqued down.

Depending on how "tight" the new hub is (how much is it crushing the collar?) there are a few ways to solve the issue, either modifying (or replacing entirely) the collar or working on the hub (probably require a lathe).