It's been 2 years sitting dormant now and I finally decided to start working on my FC again, glad to say it started right up with a charge to the battery and new plugs. Anyways I am starting to rebuild the braking system, I have rebuilt the front calipers and 1 rear caliper and 1 to go and my question is whenever I start bleeding the brakes which caliper do I start with? I know always to start with the farthest and work your way to the reservoir but i've heard since that the rear calipers have 2 bleeder valves (i'm guessing one is for the parking brake?) I have heard to do the opposite, start in and work your way out. So where do I start and do I bleed both valves on both rear calipers? Sorry if this has been asked before but could not find anything on the forum. Thanks

 

Rear right, Rear left, Front right, Front left. Do it again until there is no more air. Also leave e-brake down. It will effect pressure.

 

So bleed both valves on each rear caliper? Sorry for the noob question

 

I'm assuming I bleed both valves since nobody answered but I have another question/problem. I'm trying to unscrew the phillips screws that hold the brake rotors on and they will not budge at all. I'm scared to keep trying because they are starting to strip out the heads. The only thing I can think of is to drill out the heads and put the new rotors on and not use the screws. Any suggestions?

 

Bleed them one at a time as per the order that 2slow4stock has mentioned.

Get yourself an impact driver at Sears or Harbor Freight. Or Napa or any automotive parts store.

 

The screws are completely unnecessary anyway. It's more of a convenience issue during the car's build down the assembly line. Once the wheel is torqued to the hub, that will hold the brake rotor in place.

An impact driver may help, but you may very well have to drill them out as you mentioned doing.

 

Awesome, thanks everyone. I watched some vids on youtube also and they also said the same thing. So don't worry about putting the screws back in?

 

Got them off, ended up using a chisel and hammer. Both of the front rotor screws were super easy, turned by hand. And who ever had the car before me did a horrible brake job on the front right. The caliber bolts were super loose. The brake line that clips to the shock was loose and missing. And there was only one brake pad on the outside of the caliper and you can see where the caliper piston was digging in the rotor. I'm glad I got all new ones. I had to order new brake lines for the front so I will finish everything up next weekend. But thanks for every ones input, well appreciated

 

Yikes! That is shoddy workmanship. Some people shouldn't be allowed to touch cars, let alone work on something important as brakes.

 

Ok, im super confused. How are you supposed to hook up the 4 piston calipers to a non turbo car. The brake lines are completely different, I ordered new ones thinking I could take them apart and screw them on??? I have the hardlines that were on the 4 piston calipers but don't know what to do, getting very frustrated, here is a pic to help explain

 

Nevermind, I'm a dumbass

 

FYI on the two bleeder valves for the rear calipers. The lower valve is for when you rebuild the calipers. You still have to do both to do the job right. If you are just bleeding the system without taking the calipers apart, the top valve is all that is necessary. This info is from the factory service manual and also is for 14" wheeled cars. ie. single piston caliper, solid disk brakes in the rear.

A good thorough brake job does wonders for braking power. Good luck and have fun.

Babbs

 

Thanks, glad you told me because nobody answered and I assumed only one bleeder was necessary

 

Oh and another quick question, i'm installing 4 piston calipers on factory 4 lug non turbo rotors. The pads are a little bigger than the rotors but im not all that worried, or should I be? I'm gonna install the 5 lug hubs in time but right now I just want the car running on the road. So for now is it Ok?

 

Its not ideal, but it couldn't be any worse (in terms of stopping power) than the stock single piston setup.

 

Won't that cause the pads to get a bit twisted over time and cause some unusual wear?

I thought I remembered reading on here that the solution was to buy 5-lug rotors and drill new holes for the 4 lugs?

 

Here a write up from aaron cake's website about the 4lug 4 caliper brakes. If you haven't read it already it may be helpful.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/4lug4potbrakes.htm

 

Yes, but I just wanted to know if this would be ok for the time being. I will do the 5 lug swap later (I already have the hubs and everything, also a turbo II rear diff I am gonna swap also), and change out the rotors and calipers. But im just trying to get it running on the road so I can get it inspected and all that "fun" stuff

 

Get someone to help you change the the hubs and be done with it. It does not take that much time/effort...

Good time to repack bearings...

 

5 lugs means new wheels and tires, which I don't have, nor the money to buy them