Wooooooo Woooooooooo!!!
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Rotary Freak
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,788
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Wooooooo Woooooooooo!!!
Alright... so here's what I did over the course of the past two days...
Replaced vacuum lines in front of throttle body, all were hard as a rock, and two were switch (middle and upper). TRIED to replace the rear vacuum lines (two were split down the middle #1 and #3, the other two were fine), but without taking the UIM off, its impossible, so i cut the hose to a length where it wasn't hard or cracked, and spliced it with a new piece of hose (temporary solution until I pull the UIM to change my injectors. I adjusted the throttle body (cold idle, tps, and throttle plates stop set screw).
After a bit of tweaking, guess what?????
1) Misfire issue is GONE!!! I can hold the car steady at 1000-2000RPM, and it doesnt pop once!%!@%!@%!!!!!
2) Vacuum went up from 14 in/hg to 18-20in/hg
3) Warm start issue is GONE!!! Starts up, spikes to 1500, and after three seconds settles at a rock solid 750 RPM
4) Idle is ROCK SOLID between 750 and 800 depending on load/temperature.
5) ACV Buzzing is GONE!!!! GONE GONE GONE GONE GONE!!!! No more does my car sound like it has a honda engine attached to the side of the LIM!!!
Thank you to everyone for the help, and to everyone who kept insisting it was a vacuum leak, and unmetered air getting into the system. The reason I couldnt find the vacuum leaks was because they were behind the UIM, under the intercooler, and very hard to reach with the garden hose
Not to mention the fact that some of them were before the throttle plates, so they had no vacuum to suck the water in until i revved it up.
Of course, there is some bad news... there is a very slight popping upon decelleration, but i think that's due to my dirty injectors. They will be swapped soon. Also, there seems to be gradual damage to my neck as the car seems much more responsive, causing me to whip my head back repeatedly.
Anyways thanks again.
Replaced vacuum lines in front of throttle body, all were hard as a rock, and two were switch (middle and upper). TRIED to replace the rear vacuum lines (two were split down the middle #1 and #3, the other two were fine), but without taking the UIM off, its impossible, so i cut the hose to a length where it wasn't hard or cracked, and spliced it with a new piece of hose (temporary solution until I pull the UIM to change my injectors. I adjusted the throttle body (cold idle, tps, and throttle plates stop set screw).
After a bit of tweaking, guess what?????
1) Misfire issue is GONE!!! I can hold the car steady at 1000-2000RPM, and it doesnt pop once!%!@%!@%!!!!!
2) Vacuum went up from 14 in/hg to 18-20in/hg
3) Warm start issue is GONE!!! Starts up, spikes to 1500, and after three seconds settles at a rock solid 750 RPM
4) Idle is ROCK SOLID between 750 and 800 depending on load/temperature.
5) ACV Buzzing is GONE!!!! GONE GONE GONE GONE GONE!!!! No more does my car sound like it has a honda engine attached to the side of the LIM!!!
Thank you to everyone for the help, and to everyone who kept insisting it was a vacuum leak, and unmetered air getting into the system. The reason I couldnt find the vacuum leaks was because they were behind the UIM, under the intercooler, and very hard to reach with the garden hose
Not to mention the fact that some of them were before the throttle plates, so they had no vacuum to suck the water in until i revved it up. Of course, there is some bad news... there is a very slight popping upon decelleration, but i think that's due to my dirty injectors. They will be swapped soon. Also, there seems to be gradual damage to my neck as the car seems much more responsive, causing me to whip my head back repeatedly.
Anyways thanks again.
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