2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Won't stay running after rebuild

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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Angry Won't stay running after rebuild

Hey guys. I've gotten to the point where I can turn the motor over relatively easy. The problem is it will not stay running. Once I do get it started, the gas pedal is EXTREMELY touchy and erratic. I can keep my foot on the gas in one spot and the rpms will fluctuate all over the place. And idling is out of the question. Car dies as soon as you take your foot off the gas. Even if you do manage to get it started, it seems like it kills itself after about ten seconds. Just totally shuts down no matter if your foots on the gas or not. What are some things to adjust/check?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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so you got pistons oh wow
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did you check for vaccum leaks yet. more info about the car
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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It's an 88 13b n/a. I realized just now that I installed the CAS wrong. I installed it correctly and now it will run as long as I hold the gas, but won't idle at all. Runs real rough too, but thats expected I guess. No, I haven't checked for vacuum leaks. I don't have any more carb cleaner or starter fluid right now. I can't make it in town until later to get some because I don't have a car atm.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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Make sure its timed properly, theres 2 marks on the pulley, the one on the right is leading line that up with the needle on the front cover. After that drop the CAS in, make sure the 2 gear tooth is horizontal, kind of parallel with the motor and have the 2 tooth gear lined up with the first sensor. Also check your TPS to make sure its adjusted, refer to the FSM book or online. It will tell you how, and what voltages. Check for vacuum leaks, check around the throttle body for leaks with a stethoscope, propane or starting fluid. Also check where the LIM meets the block, and where each manifold meets the other. Check the EGR's vacuum source. Look up vacuum diagrams in the FSM or Haynes manual.

You should probably check vacuum leaks first, thats what I say it is.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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Thanks for the info about the CAS. I wasn't entirely sure how that was supposed to be set initially.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 03:14 AM
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I don't know whats going on. I adjusted the TPS, checked for vacuum leaks, adjusted the throttle cable. It just refuses to idle. It refuses to even attempt to idle. It just straight up shuts down when you let off the gas.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Hazard15301
I don't know whats going on. I adjusted the TPS, checked for vacuum leaks, adjusted the throttle cable. It just refuses to idle. It refuses to even attempt to idle. It just straight up shuts down when you let off the gas.
AFM
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:33 AM
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Check the flapper in your AFM, make sure its moving. Make sure the engines getting proper air flow.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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AFM is working fine.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 03:21 PM
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jst a stock rebuild?
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Yes, totally stock rebuild.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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I made a code reader out of some leds. I'm getting TPS while the engine is off and my foot on the gas. I'm getting O2 sensor while the car is running. Does that mean the TPS is just out of adjustment, or totally shot? Any thoughts on this?

*edit*

Actually... should have checked this first. I tested the resistance on the TPS. From pins A-B I get some crazy *** numbers, negative numbers... damn. From A-C I get no change between Idle and WOT. I guess it's shot then eh?

Last edited by Hazard15301; Apr 24, 2008 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 04:55 PM
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with the tps unplugged, use the GREEN and BLACK wires (pos to green) for resistance. should be 1k ohm with the throttle closed. Should be 4-5k ish at wot. I say 4-5 because it should be 4 but i tested a brand new tps and it read like 4.8k. As for the cas, you made sure it didn't jump a tooth when installed, and installed with the pulley a tdc, with the marks on the cas and gear lined up right? when installed and the motor at tdc, the gear should point to the top corner of the ignitor nearest the motor and the bottom corner of the opposite. i dont have pics at work sorry for the description.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:19 PM
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Ok.... Someone tell me what the correct way to install the CAS is because I've been told like four different ways to do it and the Hayne's manual doesn't say.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 07:59 PM
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Turn your speakers WAY up for this...

This is how it "idles" with me holding my foot on the gas perfectly still.

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/j90aq7yDm7o&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/j90aq7yDm7o&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

I can't hold it at idle below 2K or it will die.
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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bro... my 7 wont idle either.
i swapped an s5 turbo motor into an 86 gxl
right when i start it it went straight to like 6 k then went down and then straight up died after like 6 seconds. it would only run if i held the throttle down.

im gonna get a new fuel relay, but as for now im completely fucken stumped..
i know how you feel. ive put alllllllllllll and i mean all my money into this car and it wont even run.. how depressing
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:59 PM
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Yea it seriously sucks. I'm at a loss what to do. I think maybe tomorrow for the hell of it I will pull the top of the motor apart and just recheck vacuum lines and the ECU ground. I really don't want to but I have to get this thing running. I don't have enough cars in my family to get back and forth to work every day. I'll let you guys know how that turns out.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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OK. I actually swapped in a throttle body I had acquired when I first bought the car. Swapped everything over to that one and installed it with new gaskets and everything. Checked all vacuum lines while I was in there. Everything ok. Got it in, fired it up and ... same thing. Only difference is the throttle is a little more touchy than usual, which I actually like. A lot less sloppy. But it still won't attempt to idle. Actually with the new TB I can't get the car to stay running below 3k RPMs until it warms up. Even then its a bitch to stay keep it at 2k without stalling out. Then I made the mistake of re-installing the CAS and now it won't even start... so... Does anyone think it may be the TPS? I have one coming in the mail but who knows how long that will take. Also, can someone tell me how (or tell me where in the FSM) to properly install the CAS. I mean a list of steps, because I've been told a couple of different ways. Also, could the way I installed the pulleys be throwing off my TDC? If so how do I even find it again if thats the case? I'm at a loss here fellas.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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And also... just to be certain...

What is this :


And does this plug in to it?:


I looked at a vacuum diagram but couldn't locate it...
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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polito Racing's Avatar
so you got pistons oh wow
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pic 1 is the thermo valve and pic 2 is a delay valve and it connects to the outer nipple on the thermovalve. if you PM me tour email address i can send you all the manuals and stuff i have. maybe that can help you.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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I've got a Hayne's and the FSM. What connects to the inner nipple of the thermo valve because I've got nothing on that...
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 12:18 AM
  #22  
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so you got pistons oh wow
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I know one of them goes on one of the little nipples on the side of the intake manifold ( where it meets with the TB) and the other one If I'm not mistaken goes on an actuator on the other side fo the TB attached is a pic of it. it should be to that actuator circled in red. however I could be wrong but I can check tomorrow on one of my cars. mine are turbos but it shouldnt be that different.
Attached Thumbnails Won't stay running after rebuild-l_ad5b05c1dff88d97dddc850f37aae9ea-edited.jpg  
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