Won't start while hot
Thread Starter
Stratoflattener
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE; Cambridge, MA
Won't start while hot
It's an 87 TII, and it starts right up when its cold, but once i get it up to normal temp, it refuses to restart after I shut it off. I've installed a fuel injector cutoff switch, because I thought maybe the water temp sensor was screwed up (but wouldn't the temp guage also be?), and it was just trying to start it rich, and it seems to work a little, but its still not where I'd like to have it. Any ideas? Thanks
Re: Won't start while hot
Originally posted by 357
It's an 87 TII, and it starts right up when its cold, but once i get it up to normal temp, it refuses to restart after I shut it off. I've installed a fuel injector cutoff switch, because I thought maybe the water temp sensor was screwed up (but wouldn't the temp guage also be?), and it was just trying to start it rich, and it seems to work a little, but its still not where I'd like to have it. Any ideas? Thanks
It's an 87 TII, and it starts right up when its cold, but once i get it up to normal temp, it refuses to restart after I shut it off. I've installed a fuel injector cutoff switch, because I thought maybe the water temp sensor was screwed up (but wouldn't the temp guage also be?), and it was just trying to start it rich, and it seems to work a little, but its still not where I'd like to have it. Any ideas? Thanks
Can you shut it off and immedialy restart? Does it have to sit for a few before it floods?
Rat
Originally posted by joelu
check your compression.
check your compression.
HOWEVER, checking compression is not a bad suggestion. I just dont think its an issue.
Rat
sounds like it's flooding. I would check the compression. strong engines won't flood... build a fuel pump cutoff, instead of your temp sensor one
TPS is also a factor for warm starts. but that usaly just makes the warm idle lumpy. should still start.
TPS is also a factor for warm starts. but that usaly just makes the warm idle lumpy. should still start.
Hi:
There was a fellow with same problem. Can't find the thread since search not working. Also, don't remember if was s4 or s5 or na or t2.
In any case, assuming it's not actually a true flooding problem as others have suggested, the problem may come from a mal-functioning BAC valve.
If I remember correctly, the BAC valve is asked (by ECU) to supply maximum air possible upon hot startup. If you BAC is not working, then this could be your problem (it was the problem for this guy). To check the BAC, just follow instructions from FSM which you can get at www.fcs3s.org under tech->manuals (get section about fuel and emissions).
HAILERS may know a tad more about this so you could PM him for details.
Hugues -
There was a fellow with same problem. Can't find the thread since search not working. Also, don't remember if was s4 or s5 or na or t2.
In any case, assuming it's not actually a true flooding problem as others have suggested, the problem may come from a mal-functioning BAC valve.
If I remember correctly, the BAC valve is asked (by ECU) to supply maximum air possible upon hot startup. If you BAC is not working, then this could be your problem (it was the problem for this guy). To check the BAC, just follow instructions from FSM which you can get at www.fcs3s.org under tech->manuals (get section about fuel and emissions).
HAILERS may know a tad more about this so you could PM him for details.
Hugues -
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On that compression thing hot and cold. I do not know facts just using mechanical common sense.
When metal is cold it contracts. When metal is hot it expands. When a cold engine cranks the clearances should be tighter, hence more compression. When an engine is hot, clearances should be fractionally larger. Less compression.
The reason you do not compression check a cold motor. Unaccurate results.
Also, how are you using your fuel cut off switch?
I would think you would use it to shut the car down when hot. Is this how you are using it?
James
When metal is cold it contracts. When metal is hot it expands. When a cold engine cranks the clearances should be tighter, hence more compression. When an engine is hot, clearances should be fractionally larger. Less compression.
The reason you do not compression check a cold motor. Unaccurate results.
Also, how are you using your fuel cut off switch?
I would think you would use it to shut the car down when hot. Is this how you are using it?
James
Originally posted by Wankel7
On that compression thing hot and cold. I do not know facts just using mechanical common sense.
When metal is cold it contracts. When metal is hot it expands. When a cold engine cranks the clearances should be tighter, hence more compression. When an engine is hot, clearances should be fractionally larger. Less compression.
James
On that compression thing hot and cold. I do not know facts just using mechanical common sense.
When metal is cold it contracts. When metal is hot it expands. When a cold engine cranks the clearances should be tighter, hence more compression. When an engine is hot, clearances should be fractionally larger. Less compression.
James
Thread Starter
Stratoflattener
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE; Cambridge, MA
Originally posted by Wankel7
Also, how are you using your fuel cut off switch?
I would think you would use it to shut the car down when hot. Is this how you are using it?
James
Also, how are you using your fuel cut off switch?
I would think you would use it to shut the car down when hot. Is this how you are using it?
James
hugues: the site wouldn't work, so I'll try PM'ing hailers
Thanks guys
I would think you would use the switch in this situation. Car is hot and you are ready to shut it down. So instead of using the key to turn it off. You kill the fuel pump. The car starves it self of fuel. Now no fuel is alowed to trickle into the engine via faulty/leaking injectors.
J-Rat - Not enough to kill compression. But enough to make it lower (hot compression). Hence, you do compression checks on warm engines. Unless you are trying to sell the car
J/K
James
J-Rat - Not enough to kill compression. But enough to make it lower (hot compression). Hence, you do compression checks on warm engines. Unless you are trying to sell the car
J/KJames
If you look at FSM section about fuel and emissions,
you will find a sub-section about "hot start assist system". Pages are 4A-80 and after.
This tells you how to check intake air temperature sensor and the solenoid that controls vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, and maybe a few other things.
Please, check it out !!
hugues -
you will find a sub-section about "hot start assist system". Pages are 4A-80 and after.
This tells you how to check intake air temperature sensor and the solenoid that controls vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, and maybe a few other things.
Please, check it out !!
hugues -
Originally posted by Wankel7
I would think you would use the switch in this situation. Car is hot and you are ready to shut it down. So instead of using the key to turn it off. You kill the fuel pump. The car starves it self of fuel. Now no fuel is alowed to trickle into the engine via faulty/leaking injectors.
J-Rat - Not enough to kill compression. But enough to make it lower (hot compression). Hence, you do compression checks on warm engines. Unless you are trying to sell the car
J/K
James
I would think you would use the switch in this situation. Car is hot and you are ready to shut it down. So instead of using the key to turn it off. You kill the fuel pump. The car starves it self of fuel. Now no fuel is alowed to trickle into the engine via faulty/leaking injectors.
J-Rat - Not enough to kill compression. But enough to make it lower (hot compression). Hence, you do compression checks on warm engines. Unless you are trying to sell the car
J/KJames
Rat
Most likely, you are not getting enough fuel when you are starting your car (when engine is hot)
from FSM88,
the fuel pressure regulator raises fuel pressure for 90s when the ECU detects a hot start situation (via the intake air temperature sensor)
If the the fuel pressure is not raised during hot start, you may experience difficulty in starting a hot engine (some pple have removed all their emissions solenoids including the FPR solenoid, and it did not make a big difference, so I guess everything is relative)
The cheking procedures are well explained in the FSM
Hugues -
from FSM88,
the fuel pressure regulator raises fuel pressure for 90s when the ECU detects a hot start situation (via the intake air temperature sensor)
If the the fuel pressure is not raised during hot start, you may experience difficulty in starting a hot engine (some pple have removed all their emissions solenoids including the FPR solenoid, and it did not make a big difference, so I guess everything is relative)
The cheking procedures are well explained in the FSM
Hugues -
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