theory

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,

I've got an 87 NA that just had a Bonez lightweight steel flywheel installed (including the aluminum spacers, they were not forgotten) and a full clutch kit (including throwout bearing and release bearing) installed.

At first the problem was thought to be the master cylinder as the one way valve seemed to be shot inside. It was replaced and that problem was fixed.

However the car will still not shift into gear once it is running.

Any helpful tips or solutions you guys may have would be appreciated, thanks.

JAPSPECGTUs

I had the same problem. I ended up replacing the SLAVE, and MASTER with new units from NAPA and having it bled by a shop because i couldn't do it by myself. Bleeding is a bitch, get a SPEED BLEEDER if you want to do it by yourself.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Clutch disk may have been installed backwards.

fstrnyou

could also be a screwed up pilot bearing. i had to do an emergency tranny swap in my parkiing lot one day and messed up the pilot bearing when re-installing the tranny. there was enough of a bind to make the input shaft spin leaving it rather difficult to put it in gear when stopped. took the tranny back off and found a small pile of ground up metal where the pilot bearing used to be. it may take a lot of work, but check that before you spend all kinds of money on a master/slave cylinder.

deadRX7Conv

What clutch kit did you use?

Master, hose, and slave should've been replaced during the clutch job.

Regardless, you should pull everthing and start over. Sorry, but if you're skipping replacement of parts that, IMO, should've been replaced, maybe you overlooked something else. And, make sure that you torque everything, and grease the sliding mechanical wear points.

Like the OEM thermostat, I find that the pilot and release bearings should be OEM also regardless of the brand clutch kit used. And, clutch fork/pivot should also be carefully inspected or just replaced. The transmission front cover should also be inspected for wear.

theory

iTrader: (5)

I used the Rotary Performance clutch kit:

"The RP Standard Clutch kit is better than stock, it can handle up to 10% more power, but is not intended for racing use. You get the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and seal"

The Master was replaced with a Mazda oem replacement.

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

bleeding takes two seconds just have two people with you..... unbolt the bleeder valve on the slave push in clutch...take out clutch...push in clutch... do this untill there is fluid coming out of the valve....make sure that you dont run low in the clutch master or you will have to start over...

this is if you replace the slave and clutch master

theory

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the tips guys, we'll see what works I guess.