Wondering about carbing a 13B...
I wanta be with the BUC!
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From: Knoxville, TN
They do make a plate that goes between the intake for a 12A and a 13B's motor, I saw it on the for sale section in the 1st gen area. I was a nice weber set up, and all for like $400-450 I don't remembor which I'll try to find the page because I posted on it, he had a picture of the plate that was used to let the intake be used on a 6 port motor.
You can get a new weber from most VW shops for under $300 and a new Racing beat upper manifold(you use your old lower one) costs $150. Its not hard to make the throttle linkage, and you dont need a FB distributor you can just use the ECU to run the crank angle sensor-it doesnt freak out without the other inputs. Trust me I ran this setup for a couple of years, you will suffer from crappy fuel economy though.
-Matt
-Matt
I wanta be with the BUC!
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From: Knoxville, TN
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=177321
There is the for sale add for the carb and manifold I was talking about has a 6 port addaptor and all. And it is down to like $450 or so I don't remember just reading it that is bad.
There is the for sale add for the carb and manifold I was talking about has a 6 port addaptor and all. And it is down to like $450 or so I don't remember just reading it that is bad.
Thread Starter
...94% correct.
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From: High Texas
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: SouthEast
Originally posted by Makenzie71
Try cutting the top of the car off. That was my biggest weight redux after the initial stripping of the interior...lol. Everything behind the seats, that wasn't essential to structural rigidity, was cut out. I did build a cover for the rear of the car out of plywood that weighs less that 10lbs. Removed the carpeting. Removed everything I possibly could from the interior and body...went so far as to remove all but four bolts holding each fender on. Most of the doors were cut out...and the paneling on the outside of the doors was cut as well to where you could see all of the way through...thinking about welding them shut as well. Really there's amost no car left there. Right now...with the bare block still in it...it weighs 1578lbs. But I will have to add a low profile roll cage, a heavy strut bar in the rear, and the front and rear valences. I'm hoping for below 1800lbs when in good running order.
Try cutting the top of the car off. That was my biggest weight redux after the initial stripping of the interior...lol. Everything behind the seats, that wasn't essential to structural rigidity, was cut out. I did build a cover for the rear of the car out of plywood that weighs less that 10lbs. Removed the carpeting. Removed everything I possibly could from the interior and body...went so far as to remove all but four bolts holding each fender on. Most of the doors were cut out...and the paneling on the outside of the doors was cut as well to where you could see all of the way through...thinking about welding them shut as well. Really there's amost no car left there. Right now...with the bare block still in it...it weighs 1578lbs. But I will have to add a low profile roll cage, a heavy strut bar in the rear, and the front and rear valences. I'm hoping for below 1800lbs when in good running order.
Eat, sleep, work, mod.
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Long Island
what is the rev range of the carb setups and how much power can they make w/ the stock injectors/ECU? it's always been very tempting to do as I can get it all real cheap but I can't se this setup ever passing emissions regardless of tuning/cats ...right??
Jon88 - - -
You will not need injectors OR an ECU.
Once you go carburated that's all you need. you would die after you see how much crap you can remove. all those vac hoses and silinoids can be taken out. And be replaced by a carb. get a different rate fuel pump, and hook up the throttle linkage. tune the carb and your done.
Dont expect much more than 15 MPG... HP will be increased from the basic / ECU.. and you will get more power.
Obviously you can get ALOT MORE power coming from an upgraded ECU/INjectors/Wiring/Fuel Pump. BUT the beauty of a carb.. if it's not running right. 4 bolts and it's off. No wireing to fuss with.. no injectors to leak, no ECU to reground. you would be amazed.
I am eventually going to go carb after i get my suspention and brakes the way i like them..
-Markus
You will not need injectors OR an ECU.
Once you go carburated that's all you need. you would die after you see how much crap you can remove. all those vac hoses and silinoids can be taken out. And be replaced by a carb. get a different rate fuel pump, and hook up the throttle linkage. tune the carb and your done.
Dont expect much more than 15 MPG... HP will be increased from the basic / ECU.. and you will get more power.
Obviously you can get ALOT MORE power coming from an upgraded ECU/INjectors/Wiring/Fuel Pump. BUT the beauty of a carb.. if it's not running right. 4 bolts and it's off. No wireing to fuss with.. no injectors to leak, no ECU to reground. you would be amazed.
I am eventually going to go carb after i get my suspention and brakes the way i like them..
-Markus
Eat, sleep, work, mod.
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Long Island
hehe right, injectors...forgot. as far as the ECU someone mentioned running the crank angle sensor for timing by the ECU...would you be able to get one of these systems to pass a sniffer?? no visuals inspections in NY, so it just has to make the right #'s. I'm going for a TII swap but I'm just curious...premix would be the way to go as it burns a lot cleaner.
I wanta be with the BUC!
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From: Knoxville, TN
My car probably gets like 10-12 mpg right now so anything is an improvement, also just a little note, if you use a side draft weber carb you can still have you 5th and 6th ports. A side draft use the stock lower intake.
I wanta be with the BUC!
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From: Knoxville, TN
It wasn't an article it was in the RX-7 perfromance hand book, and it said
Now I don't know about the whole rare factor on webers since they still make them new, but I just like them better than Holly. And I quoted that from the performance handbook. That is about one of the 5 good thing that this book says.
A weber conversion is great for racing, but Webers are getting harder and harder to find. They have poor idle and are harder to start in cold wether, but at higher rpm's they really come in to there own. Delorttos and mikunis are even harder to find, altough much more streetworthy than the Weber. Holly is the best option for dual duty/street/drag/track time.
Now I don't know about the whole rare factor on webers since they still make them new, but I just like them better than Holly. And I quoted that from the performance handbook. That is about one of the 5 good thing that this book says.
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From: in my car
To answer your question about getting your car to pass the "sniffer"!!!! All you have to do is enrich the mixture as much as possible and you'll pass. Sounds odd but the sniffer cannot smell past the fuel and you pass. I have a carbed TII and know it works.