I just came across this picture and I was wondering just what the benefits would be of doing this and what all would be required. I haven't had a chance to really search yet so if you happen to know the titles of a couple of decent threads covering this I would appreciate it.

 

Carbing a 13B motor is very easy.. but finding the parts to do so would be a little harsh. THe car will not be very easy to drive everyday. your gas miliage would be TERRIBLE to say the least, but it would have substantial power gains for alot cheaper than a fuel injected system would cost. (price of carb) OR (Price of engine management system) It can yeild very LARGE power gains if used with a good header/exhaust system.. and even more gains if you were to port the internals I am eventually going this route on my FC.. only cause.... it's simply cheaper. good luck

-Markus

 

I'm really wanting to try this on my newly started project car because of my lack of all the electronic parts to do it propperly...and it would be substantially lighter...I'm already looking at a 1500lb car...with a bare block still installed...this would be even lighter.

 

will a 12A intake manifold fit a 13B???

 

i'm not one to answer... sorry, COME ON GURU"S!! where are you guys. Yeah, Carb's are definatly nice!!!

-Markus

 

bump

 

damn...must be too late for anyone...

 

oh man... that makes me cry, just look how easy it is to get to that oil filter

 

I would have to disagree with the car sucking as a daily driver and the gas mileage and the price. Basically, if you know how to tune a carb, it might be the way to go. The carb conversion costs somewhere in the vicinity of $700-1000 (pretty close to const of stand-alone), and you need to grab a FB distributor and such. Other than that, I would suggest you search b/c there are tons of threads from guys that know what they are talking about.

 

Early Mazdas came with carbs anyway and they drove pretty well, tho it was pretty easy to make them backfire. And it sure does clean up that engine bay!

 

Finding the parts is easy if you know where to look. Will cost you about $750 for the intake and manifold. A good used distributor $50-150.

www.piercemanifolds.com

Substantial power gains? Good gains over a stock FI engine but buy a stand alone EMS(Microtech for $1000), eliminate the AFM and you make good gains also on an otherwise stock intake(less the AFM) and stock port engine. In the long run the carb might be a little cheaper(not much) but not enough to justify(for me anyway) the lack of overall performance the EMS will get you.

But its your money so buy what your comfortable and happy with. Me, I'm going stand alone EMS for my racecar.

 

If you carb your engine what do you do with the AFM??? Could you just take it out and leave it unplugged since you wouldn't be using fuel injection any more. I've always wanted to do this ever since I found out that they made carbs for these cars but, I always seem to spend the money on somthing else, I want to buy the weber kit that mazdatrix sells, that is made for a six port.

 

you wouldnt even need an AFM. you wouldnt even need an ECU...

Just a carb and some fuel lines! YEAH BABY!

-Markus

 

well alittle more than that

the AFM is an Air Fuel Meter, used for measuring air volume to tell the computer how much fuel to give to the injectors....since your running carb there is no need for it. Man you guys need to check the pricing more offten, I've seen jaytech manifolds go for less than 150 bucks of e-bay, find you self a good used carb, replace the jets and linkage, get a fuel pump that has the right output for the carb, get a Dizzy off any 1st gen even 12A dizzy's will work, then hook up an MSD 6a and have someone (or learn) tune your carb for you suitable purpose, let me remind you guys of my friends 13b carb setup that runs 13s in his 2400 1st gen, mind you its a stock port motor!!!

 

Carb... here i come!

 

More insentive to do it. Hey and that would solve my vacume leak that I can't find, it would be great.

 

If you compare the new prices of carbs and intakes to the new prices of a stand alone EMS they are close. The EMS will cost a little more. Used prices I have seen some stand alones go for less than a carb/intake setup. If your installing the carb into a 2nd gen car its cheaper to go EMS. You don't have to buy an intake, injectors, fuel pump or sensors. You might need to buy a cone filter to fit on the end of the intake but overall your major parts are already on the engine provided you utilize the factory pieces. Many people think you need an aftermarket intake and some throttle bodies but you don't.

But like I previously said its your money. Buy what makes you happy. I've been down both roads and the EMS is superior in my mind.

 

The superior method isn't exactly what I'm hunting. I want an ultra-light car. I'm not that concerned about what could yield the most gains only that it runs and can deliver close to stock performance (seeking between 150-200 crank HP isn't what I would consider "substantialy increased performance"). I want something that is dependable, that can pull a 1600lb car decently.

Thanks for the link and info Letherseatcovers!

Now, with the question no one's answered yet...will a 12A intake manifold fit a 13B block? I want a temp solution so I don't have to get the car running.

 

do you mean intake mani? or exhaust?

 

Just called piercemanifolds and they quote me:

$299 for the manifold kit alone.

$874 for the entire kit (manifold, Webber 48IDA, gaskets, throttle linkages, everything you need minus a hook up for the omp).

 

i just looked at their site:


Converting to carb will remove the 5th and 6th port actuators right? or do they stay on there?

 

intake manifold...but I just found some pics that took that idea out of my head.

 

no...they're gone form what I've seen. Everything that they run...other that the sleeves...has to be removed anyways, and minus the sleeve's you're on;y looking at a slight lowend loss of power.

 

Makenzie71 said - that can pull a 1600lb car decently.

Assuming you are using a 2nd Gen chassis how much of your car are you going to cut out to get it that light weight? My totally stripped FP car is in the 2200# range. Soon I'll have the fiberglass hood and lexan windshield as well as the hatch. That should put me a little under 2100#.

 

Try cutting the top of the car off. That was my biggest weight redux after the initial stripping of the interior...lol. Everything behind the seats, that wasn't essential to structural rigidity, was cut out. I did build a cover for the rear of the car out of plywood that weighs less that 10lbs. Removed the carpeting. Removed everything I possibly could from the interior and body...went so far as to remove all but four bolts holding each fender on. Most of the doors were cut out...and the paneling on the outside of the doors was cut as well to where you could see all of the way through...thinking about welding them shut as well. Really there's amost no car left there. Right now...with the bare block still in it...it weighs 1578lbs. But I will have to add a low profile roll cage, a heavy strut bar in the rear, and the front and rear valences. I'm hoping for below 1800lbs when in good running order.