LLADNAR

here is the first while under the car putting on the starter wiring and other related under car wires this one jsut broke out of the harness,,what is it and how important is it that i do surgery on the harness to find this little piece of ****



ok this next one is over by the brake booster,,there is another broken wire,,looks like a ground but am not sure..then one of these singe tube style plugs,,can't figure out where the daddy is for that one,,if the broke is indeed a gound no problem i will jsut gound it.



these are from down below the front bumper,,the two black ones are the horns,,but what of the 3 prong white one


Another one of those tube style single prongs,,this one came from behind the alternator,,and the green 3 prong off to the right,,i think that is some king of diagnosis checker(at least that is the way the book made it look??



And now for the big one,,yet one more tube style single going right into the coil,,then the two green ones(no idea what they are),,and the white 3 prong style with only two holes filled.


I hope this will make is to somebody with the experience or 5 minutes and a running t2 can help me,,this is really pissing me off,,i hear about 5 different buzzers when i turn the key on and the tach imediatly jumps to 3k without the engine being started,,i hope this all will fix that problem.

execelon1

if you can get the color (s) of the wires you might get some help from the color code chart @ iluvmyrx7 you can download the entire fact manual i hope this helps you some PEACE. ex...

HAILERS

The black, squarish black job with the hole to mount it looks like the capacitor for the oil pressure sending unit........The tube job around the coil assy is for a remote tach, the green one with six female is the diagnostic connector, the two prong greeen one is the initial set coupler.......The three prong green connector around about the altenator is the test connector for the TPS, the single tube? got me. ...........the connector around the brake booster, maybe the connector for the brake reservior. Maybe, maybe not. Should have a similar connector going into the side of the plastic reservior for the brakes. EDIT: I forgot, the one below and around the horns, its for an electric fan that was an option. You'll find several plugs laying about on this car not being used. They usually are for items that were offered as options, such as cruise control, electric mirrors, blah, blah, blah........

LLADNAR

so then over by the brake res. is the one that is pluged in but is broken off just a ground wire then,,that is all it looks like but if it were a ground why would it not be in the big ground harness that is just in front of it.

also the reason why i was thinking that one wire had to be part of the coil wiring is because when i crank it over the front coil doesn't arc,,the rear one does.

HAILERS

I doubt it has much to do with your lead coil. Does your car run????? Check the small white connector on the lead coil assy. Should have 12v on the black/yellow wire. Should have 5v that comes and goes on the other wire. The coil assy itself has to be grounded. Just the bolts that hold it on the chassis is good enough. OOps! I just read the part about the tach and 3000rpm with the car not running. What happens when the car does run???/ Tach work????? I'll look a little harder when I get home, at the area around the brake booster. If the car does start, next time you start it, or prior, take L2 wire out of the coil assy and set it to the side. Start the car. I notice on my car when I do this, the spark will leap out of the hole to the closest ground, making a huge spark. See if yours does this. Takes but a moment to do. EDIT: And congratulations, you have come up with an ailment that my LEMON CAR has never had. That would be the 3000rpm without the car running.

RETed

I'm surprised HAILERS didn't catch this one...
You're more likely to see the oil pressure sensor capacitor, but there's another identical unit mounted on the back-side of the driver' side strut tower.&nbsp If you remove the trailing coils unit, you'll see it on the strut tower.&nbsp I believe this is for the trailing coils...

The cap looks more for the trailing coils than for the oil pressure sensor, judging the distance in the pic.



-Ted

HAILERS

OUCH!

LLADNAR

the car hasn't run since i put the engine in,,i haven't even put the plug wires on it yet,,that brings up another question,,which plugs go where i have two that have two green rings on them and two that are plain white.,,,which ones go on top,,or bottom or whatever

LLADNAR

but when i crank the motor the tach drops back down and seems to be opperating correctly

HAILERS

I'd take Ted's advice and find the other end for that black square connector, splice it in, and find the bolt that bolts it in . Like he said, down under the trail coil assy. Anyway, the LEAD COIL ASSY is the one up front near the battery. Look carefully and you will see L1 and L2 embossed under the wire holes. These two wires go to the lower plug holes. Look with a flashlite and next to each lower plug hole you will see the letter L ....The trail coil assy is the one near the brake booster. It has T1 and T2 embossed under the wire holes. They go to the top plugs, which if you look carefully, have a T stamped next to each one. The front holes are *1* and the rear holes are *2* as in (L1,T1) and ( L2,T2). Make sense?? T1 T2 L1 L2 Now about that black squarish thing with the hole in it. It mounts to the aft side of the l/h strut tower, below the coil assy. The other end of the wire should have had a white connector on it. I think it goes to that white connector in the picture. The definition of that one pic was not too good.

LLADNAR

ok i have one for ya now,,i was tinkering tonight and tired of getting in the damned car to crank it over,,checking coils and such,,so i took the small black wire off and ran a wire of my own to the post on the starter and then i could turn it over with me in the engine bay,,well as soon as i unhook that wire the tach drops to zero,,then when i crank it over from outside,,it will do it for about 20sec then every electronic in the car shuts off for about 5 seconds,,then a click from inside and everything is back on.

this car is severly pissing me off,,this is my 1st rx7 and if things don't start changing this will be my last,GRRRRRRRRRR

RETed

I don't blame you.&nbsp Electronics problems are a pain-in-the-*** to troubleshoot and solve.&nbsp Add 1000000000 times the complexity you trying to descibe to us the problem and us all trying to guess at what is wrong.&nbsp You REALLY should take this to a shop or someone who knows what they are doing...



-Ted