daniel123588

Hi, this is the worst problem i ever encountered in all my car experience....heres what happened. I was driving my S5 TII normally and when i had parked into my stall and pulled out the key, my apexi turbo timer didnt count down and plus the car was running still. I had turned the full pump off since i have a full pump toggle switch and the car had stopped running. Whats even more weird is that the car is staying in the Ignition "on" position even with the the key out the ignition and its atually in the "Off" position, so basically the mirrors, windows, radio all work without the key, the warning lights stay on etc. I opned the hood and took the battery out and saw that the wireloom running through the car from the driver side firewall had a melted wire (the one shorted wire had melted itself through the wire loom and you know how it melts the cover and you can see the one wire). So i cut the cover off with a sharp blade carefully to see where the two ends of the wire ended up. One ends up at the EGI main relay which is the first box by the driver side firewall and the other just stops during the wireloom to about the battery area. Since so many wires are wrapped in the loom, the one wire that melted had melted about couple other wires and now that they were are bare wires and touching each other im guessing a hot wire is touching the "accesory" wire since the EGI main realy has stuff to do with ignition. I have checled all my fuses and all are okay, im wondering if its my Apexi manual turbo timer but the thing is that when i put it in, i had the harness for the FC3S so it was basically just "plug and play" type thing and i dont know whats wrong, plus the turbo timer was working perfectly for the past three to four days when i had installed it. As of now the turbo timer still turns on but its not getting the signal from the ignition so it doesnt count down. Im going to pull it out soon and test it with a battery that i have sitting at home but has anybody every had a problem like this? Can a Turbo Timer malfunction and cause this problem? Need help, never started my car for about two weeks due to this problem, it will start but since i had cut the wire loom to trace the wire i dont want to start the car plus since there is couple bare wires (the ones that melted the insulation of).

Sorry for the long long thread.

WAYNE88N/A

Need wire colors of the burnt stuff and exactly where you tapped in to the OEM wiring for the turbo timer to help you much.

Obvious that something went wrong with the timer install, not a direct short probably (no fuses blew), but something pulling way too much current somewhere, through wiring that wasn't designed for it, my guess. Seperating the bare wiring and rewrapping it (or replacing it if it's "welded") just might fix you up, after you disconnect the timer.

Kingofl337

You might be just as well off to get another harness from a s5. The main power harness should be the same for the TII and the N/A.

daniel123588

hey WAYNE88N/A , to begin, thanks so much for your help right now. my car hasnt been running for about two weeks and am really sad since i just go tthe car back about 3 and a half weeks ago.
1. The Turbo timer wiring i connected into was the wires in the ignition steering column but it was the harnesses at the end of that i just pulled apart and connected in to the turbo timer harnesses. I did not have to splice any wires, it was all just harnesses. Ill pull out the turbo timer soon and see what color wires i had plugged into but i checked the signals of the wires even before connecting the harnesses. And dont the harnesses only fit one way?
2. The wire that had melted on the EGI main relay is the four wire harnesses one and is the black wire. I think its only black because the other three wires are "two blue ones and one black one with a yellow stripe" (could be white, hard to tell). The wires runs through the wire loom and stops about the area where it comes to the battery (its odd that it just stops there)
3. I had a question.. my turbo timer was working perfectly for about three to four days and this problem suddenly just happened. Is it possible that things after installing can happen few days later? (i was told the amperage can slowly just build up or something)
4. When you said "something pulling way too much current somewhere, through wiring that wasn't designed for it, " that can cause the wires to just shrot and melt like how it did? So how am i suppose to get a turbo timer?....or just dont get one...

I have to wrap or resolder new wires but i dont have no garage so i just have to do it on the street plus theres no outlet so kinda sucks for me.
Thanks again for the help. Thanks for the suggestion too "Kingofl337 "

WAYNE88N/A

OK, if none of the wiring melted in the timer harness (or any harness that mated with it), let's look elsewhere...

Now, what you're calling the EGI main relay means main relay to me, but it should have 6 wires, not 4...In any case, the black wire would probably be a ground. If the ground melted then something (power for the turbo timer?) was spliced into the power side of the circuit (on the "other" side of the relay, so to speak) that is also using that ground, and the wiring is just not big enough to handle the extra current load. That's one theory, anyway...

Grounds can't melt due to shorts, but they can melt due to overloads...

I'm still trying to track down what exactly you're talking about from your wiring color descriptions. Where is this relay of yours located on the car?

I need to get an idea of exactly which OEM wiring is giving you problems before I can really recommend anything. Just guessing kinda sucks, lol...

daniel123588

Hey WAYNE88N/A, the main EGI Relay is the box that is right next to the clutch master cylinder and conisists of two harnesses. 6 wires come out of the EGI main relay. One harness consists of 2 wires which is white w/black stripe and the other wire is black w/yellow stripe. The other harness consists of 4 wires which the color scheme i had described earlier (2 blue wires, one black with yellow stripe, and one black wire which is is the main one that melted.)
1. The overload can progress overtime? because my timer was working perfectly for couple
days before this suddenly just happened.

daniel123588

i have another problem
1. i pulled out the turbo timer and being in the hot hot sun i just pulled the harness clips out. but umm there are now four harnesses from the original facotry wiring (2 male, 2 female). unfortuantely the wire colors on ignition side and on the other connecting side are different colors, the only one that is the same is the blue wire to the blue wire when the harnsses are connected together. Does anybody know which one connects to which. if it is the blue to the blue wire harness which is the only same colored one than its easy since i know that connection will be correct and theres only two remaining which has to connect to each other. Please help, sorry for the trouble.

daniel123588

*help*

WAYNE88N/A

Lol, can't help you with the timer wiring, unless you provide a schematic.

Now, yes an overload can take a while to do some damage. Just like plugging a couple of electrical heaters into your house wiring outlet- it'll take a while, but sooner or later you'll have a house fire. It sounds like it wasn't until the insulation finally melted all the way through and allowed the different conductors to touch that the problems began. I think I said this earlier, but if you repair the wiring, and figure out WHY the overload happened in the first place, you might just be good to go.

As far as the main relay wiring goes:

The black/white comes from the IGN1 power source, through the 15A "engine" fuse. If this one's melted you got problems, lol...

The black is the relay's coil ground. If it's melted, then someone tapped into the power supply for the relay. Sounds unlikely, though...

The black/green is the power for your coils & injectors, from the 40A "egi inj" fuse...

The black/yellow is the wire that feeds the coils & injectors from the relay contacts. If this is melted, you've got some troubleshooting to do...

The white/blue feeds the relay contacts for the ECU & a host of solenoids, from the 30A "egi comp" fuse

And, the other black/white (among the group of 4) feeds the ECU & all that stuff above from the relay contacts. Same thing here, if it's melted, then you have some troubleshooting to do...

That help any?

daniel123588

going to have the melted wires resoltered in on sunday and ill see waht happens then. Thanks so much for your help and i dont know maybe ill just take it to an electrical shop i guess.

Kingofl337

Its probably going to be cheaper to replace the harness thats messed up. Then have it repaired. 60+ hr x 2hrs = $120.00 vs Harness for like $60.00 tops.