katkaroto

so i bought the relay from i forgot.. the recommended site i say... so i desolder out old relay and replace it with the new relay.. put it in, and test it... they only work on low... what's the problem?

i was thinking i used the wrong solder type thingy.. i was using the lead solder... is that the problem? help!!

Jpk3200

Did you replace the correct relay?

Did you check your connections with an ohm meter after finishing?

Icemark

solder type wouldn't matter, as most solder has lead in it.

Did the switch work on any speed but low before?

Most common reason after soldering in the new relay and it still not working, is that you grabbed a solder trace when you pulled the old relay, and there is no longer a connection on the spot.

Looking at the old relay that you pulled... are there any of the tabs, that are slightly round with a copper color on them?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

^^^^^
how does one go about preventing this?
when DE-soldering the old relay....what are some tips to prevent this?

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

You need a hot tip. You want to melt the solder as quick as possible, so you don't overheat the board and lift the trace.

Icemark

Yep, the proper temp solder iron is the best thing. I also use a powerful solder sucker, that pulls all the solder out of the joint before attempting to pull the relay.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Just send your switch unit to icemark & he'll make it new again. problem solved. That's what I did after two junk yard pieces failed.

Ramses666

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i used to have asucker but i couldnt get it to pull any solder off....im really not sure what i was doing wrong? im guessing the tip wasnt hot enough?
**EXAMPLE**
let solder gun heat up properly
have the sucker ready in 1 hand and the gun in the other
touch the tip of the gun on the solder until you see it melting then you use the solder sucker???
is this right? thats how i did it and i couldnt get the solder off?

katkaroto

well, i think i did pull off a copper piece... i think something chipped... damn it... i'll go get a spare and take off that relay i bought...

katkaroto

i wouldnt mind... but i want to try things myself so i know what i can do to help out too...

and not go around like

do what?

ohh... hmm...

nope, its broken..

Jpk3200

Can you still save it by bridging the broken connection with a piece of wire? I've done that with my warning clock and works fine.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i found a couple links on how to de solder....
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164/7
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm

Icemark

which hole:



The idea would be to run a jumper wire from the pin, to the next connection point on the circuit board.

So if you can figure out which pin, then I can tell you where to attach it.

katkaroto

how much is he charging? i got two wiper switch... one is basiclly junk and has the new relay in it.. the other.. i just bought from a guy.

i'm trying to compare with rx7world now..

katkaroto

i think it was the top right red dot... also.. i ripped out a bit of green... will that be a problem..?
well i might have to go back and look at things... i had to rip out the whole side and so on.. where do you buy wire wick or solder vac?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a cheap solder sucker... = teh crap.

Icemark

Well top right goes to the leg of the transistor.

I doubt that was the one.

and a decent solder sucker can be found at any radio shack. I never use wick.

katkaroto

well.. looking at things now.. i'm tryin to compare the one i soldered and the one i bought. i see 2 metal dots that was from the area the green board tore off when i was trying to take off the old relay. maybe that's the problem.. i kinda dont want to re-solder.. but i might have to... but hold on.. i'm trying to get some pictures some how...

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Yeah... you trashed the circuit board. Send it to IceMark. you already screwed it up... why continue the destruction?

Ramses666

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

well....heres the damage i did today....i pushed the pins back and forth which is what caused the plastic to be melted. i had the relay out but the solder was still in the hole. i decided to stick the tip of the gun in the hole to clean it out and took the copper ring with it (on the table to the right). i was curious if you knew where i would jumper this to?

Icemark

dude... that board is wasted... you are going to need to jumper almost every pin

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

im gonna guess and say the top 4? i think what i did was heated the solder up to long before using the sucker...the bottom 2 wasnt so bad....is it beyond repair? im not sure which ones need jumper'ed and to where?

Icemark

when I get back tonight, I'll post where you need to jump too

katkaroto

anywho.. i went and bought a desoldering bulb/pump sucker. i trashed my 88 wiper circuit board in the process..... i peeled more of the green off when i tried removing the new relay that i put in... i bought the relay from digikey, and that was a while back when i improperly removed the old one and so on..

well, i desoldered the old relay off the 89 wiper switch i bought recently, and removed it successfully without damage this time. i then put the digikey relay in place and resoldered the digikey relay and it looks good.. i tried taking pictures.. but they're all blurry.. need a better camera i suppose. well, i'm hoping for the best.. if not, may i send it to you Icemark?

well, i'm going to trash the 88 since i know it probably wont work, but i'm taking the little bulbs just incase i need them for replacement bulbs.

should i also take the old relay next to the old one too? or is it useless?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

A few comments and one question from the posts above.

Icemark - the solder sucker at radio shack with the red bulb and white tip - I have that one - does it suck or is it me? Can you recommend one? BTW, the solder wick is ****, good to see I'm not the only one.

And regarding the blurry pictures, use the macro function so it focuses properly, if need be place the object and camera somewhere supported and use the self timer so you get no shaking.