duo2999

iTrader: (1)

so my driver's side window switch never worked, took it apart. still didnt work. however the passenger side worked fine, but it wont move the window without the driver's side plugged in.

i think something might have touched because i had it the part beneath the plastic exposed to see if it was working properly at all. so the little round things at the top have the copper rocker peices and amongst my testing, one hopped out and something touched and i heard the sparks and the copper rocker got really hot.

im not sure if i fried something, but i understand there is a possibility i did, which might be the case.

so i did some searching and i found out about the mazda mpv switches. went and puled a set and plugged them in, and nothing.

i pulled pins out and i put them in the fc harness and everything looked like it was wired correctly, but neither of the windows wanted to go up. so im not really sure what to do.

any suggestions?

Mutaku

Did you change the wiring when you installed them in the harness? You have to relocate some of the wires as its not a direct repin. If you need I can get the wire combination as I have done the switch in my car. Also if you can see if the motors still work. They probably should but you might as well test it just in case.

duo2999

iTrader: (1)

i followed what another thread had. they had an image called "wires.bmp" which shows how the wires went in the plastic harness.

thats what i am going off of, but if you could get the wire combination and post it, i would greatly appreciate it.

how would i test the motors? with a test light?

Mutaku

What I did was just jumpered the motor with another power supply. If you have a cordless drill battery you can use the connections on that jumpered to the motor. Just unplug the connector for the motor and connect one lead to the positive + on the cordless and the other to the negative - on the cordless.

If it doesn't move down switch the connections and see if it works the other way. Either way though you should know if the motor is working as you'll hear it try to move.

What I did since I couldn't find my cordless drill battery was used the connection for the door lights (the ones that light up when you open the door) that are in the door panel and used those connections.

Found this on a post from icemark

"Unplug the motor. Hook the red lead from the motor to + of a cordless drill battery and the green lead to (-) of a cordless drill battery. If you don't have a cordless drill battery, run leads all the way to the battery of the car.

The motor will move if it is good. Reverse the two... again, the motor will move the opposite direction if the motor is good."

Also just went out and checked in my car, on the switch side I have 2 red and 2 green wires, one with a black stripe and one without. What you are going to want to do is have the black stripe go to where the white stripe connects and the one without a stripe to go with the white. The other wires stay the same.

I also forgot to add, did you check the fuse?

duo2999

iTrader: (1)

alrighty the wires are plugged into the harness correctly, so i have to test the motor tomorrow.

i will have a look at the fuse tomorrow also.

i'll post results

wheelsx

I have found the window circuitry to be fairly complex and confusing for such a simple result of making a window go up or down. I have made a replacement for the driver side, replicating most of the circuitry (all of it that makes the driver side switches work) using 3 position toggle switches. I have yet to figure out how to make the passenger side work without blowing a fuse when the driver and passenger switches for the passenger window are in opposite positions without using the passenger switch power cut-off switch. The default passenger switch does not operate the window with my configuration, and will also need to be replaced with a 3 position toggle switch to operate the window. However, the way the switch works requires the default passenger switch to be plugged in for the passenger window to operate, thus bringing me to a complicated problem I have yet to figure out, although a possible solution may involve buying a relay to cut the connection between the feed from the cut-off switch to the passenger side when there is a completed circuit due to the driver side switch for the passenger window being activated. You could just remember to cut power when you make adjustments to the passenger window, or just do nothing like I have and offer the passenger no window control.

I have also included a schematic below. This fix costs just a few dollars compared to the outrageous price wanted for factory replacements (*ahem* $150), and in my opinion, if done properly, can look better. I just used a rocker switch for the passenger cutoff, and all switches are mounted into a piece of 1/8 in steel, that I just glued into place. I have yet to paint it due to lazyness, but as I said, you could make it look pretty nice. There are some pretty cool switches available from online and brick-and-mortar electronics stores.

It is worth mentioning, I have a 91 RX-7, so for other years, the wires may be differently color coded differently, although I would say that is unlikely. The worst that can happen if you get it wrong besides it just not working is a blown fuse. I went through 1 or 2 trying to figure it out.




Note: It is not described in the image which switch is which. The assembly has been flipped vertically, S1 is for the driver window, and S2 is for the passenger window.

Also note: This will result in pushing forward to make the window go down, which is my preference. If you want it the opposite way, just switch Green(white) for Red(white), and Green(black) for Red(black), or just rotate the swtich 180º

wheelsx

Also, as I forgot to mention above, make sure your switches do not have continuity between 1 and 2, 3 and 4, or 5 and 6. When the switch is flipped in one direction, 1 will connect with 3 and 2 will connect with 4. Flipped the opposite direction, 3 will connect with 5, and 4 with 6. The pins aren't actually numbered, I just did that for clarity.

The fuse will not blow if the default switch is activated while using the driver switch for the passenger window (actually, nothing happens). The fuse would only blow if a 3 position toggle switch was wired in a way similar to the driver side, and the cut-off was not used. I have not actually tried this solution, but it would result in a short circuit if the switches were used simultaneously in opposite directions.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

I have been reading about adding relays so the current motor current isn't actually flowing through the switches. That seems to be the best solution to me. The switches actually arc when used (as least mine do) which causes them to foul up and need to be cleaned, with less current they shouldn't arc and should stay nice and clean.

wheelsx

Only problem is the relay will still arc inside, causing it to fail in the same time frame.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Well I think the idea is that you use a relay that is properly designed for that amount of current and it should not arc and get dirty like that.

Although I can see how the wrong choice of relay would fail just like the window switch.

wheelsx

Have you looked at switch ratings? It's the same kind of thing as far as choosing the right ones. Switches can actually handle more than you think. Besides, I have the load of the window motor going through small segments of 22AWG solid, with no problems. You're overestimating the current. I'm obviously not going to change your mind, so just go ahead and waste your time, it's not mine.

Napsterfreak15

sry to hijack this thread but what would need to be done to make an s4 window swich/haness work with an S5 dash harness.

I rewired them and it seems to go up or down just for a split second then stop.

Is this because s4 and s5 have different relays if so like where are they located and is there any easy way around this?

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Well I guess I'll just have to measure the current.

And maybe I'll measure the cross-sectional area of the switch bridges and determine the theoretical current rating.

Im not asking you to change my mind, If anything I'm trying to see what you think.

It seems pretty obvious to me why what I am saying would work.

As for your 22gauge wire, there is no doubt that this would work, but it definitely gets hotter than if it were 16ga.

I am going to try the relay and if it fails I'll let you be the first to know.

wheelsx

I personally think that controlling the windows with relays in the way you suggest would work, I just think that going through the effort is a waste in time as there is no actual longevity benefit over switches, but I just may be lazy. Either way works, it's just how much time and effort you want to put into your window controls. If I can figure out a solution to the problem I stated in my long post, I prefer my custom switch replacement method, only because of the variety of switches available. I first came up with my method because my driver window switch physically broke, and it's too expensive to buy the replacement when I enjoy making things anyway. I think I'm going to get a relay and hook up the coil in parallel with the motor, which would decrease the resistance of the entire circuit and may blow the fuse when both windows are moved due to the extra current. However, I can't do anything now with that project until I get my new window motor.

duo2999

iTrader: (1)

re-hijacking the thread lol.

so i blew a fuse, so i replaced it and the mpv switches worked amazingly with. the switch cant put the passenger side window down, but thats what i get for junk yard switches. need to fix that or get another one. but im relieved my windows go up and down again.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

congratulations