hey guys. i would like to start by saying that i like the website. i bought an 88 n/a rx7 about 6 weeks ago, and about 2 weeks ago i was in a pileup which resulted in me turning it into a parts car and buying an 89 n/a at an auction. I am under the impression that because it has AAS, sunroof, 4 wheel discs, and power everything that they are both gxl models. anyways, i'm going to be buying atkins' rotary rotor rebuild kit $445 and engine rebuild kit $125. while i was doing that i ws going to replace the clutch and flywheel. i wanted to know if it was possible to use a TII flywheel, because i cant seem to find any light ones for the N/A. any help would be appreciated. also i was going to buy a port/polish kit and try to polish the internals if anyone has experience to share doing it that would be nice as well.
thanks

 

yes you can use the TII flywheel but you would have to use the whole TII drive line, including TII tranny, TII drive shaft, and TII rear end,. i know i have see some lightined fly wheels some where on the internet. have you looked on ebay?

 

You can check rx7store.net. I was thinking about going with a lighter flywheel too. But if you with an aftermarket flywheel you need to get a counter weight too.

 

You must match the correct year to the motor/ rotor combo. If you have using the s4 engine/rotors, you can use a s4 TII flywheel 87-88 in your case. You don't need the whole drive train. YOu can just get by with just a TII tranny, starter, slave cylinder, clutch kit and a custom drive like from mazdatrix, or get the rest of the drivetrain.

 

thanks guys i just ordered a fidanza one from ebay. the only company that i found that offered them under $500. changing the driveline out would've been 2 much of a pain. i just ordered the atkins rotor rebuild kit w/ 2pc 3mm apex seals and the atkins engine rebuild kit. anyone have any luck porting and polishing theirselves? im thinking of doing the intake mani entrance and exits and trying to get them to match the block. someone told me that a good street port is worth about 20% increase so i figure if i buy a kit and do it myself for $30 and get a 5% increase its still a good deal lol.
thanks again.

which clutch do you think i should get... i have my eyes on 2 a Clutch Masters fx500 basically a stage 5 (o dear god i c myself stalling out) or fx300 stage 3? i wanna say the stage 3 but for some odd reason the stage 3 is about $100 dollars more. i dont want to pay the money but would it be worth it not to have to deal with the extremely "grabby" clutch? the car is gonna be boosted soon whether by nitrous or by a turbo anyways so would the heavier duty one be the better choice? ive driven my buddies 180 which has a stage 4 and it was a pain in the butt the first day. it felt like my leg had never touched a clutch before lol.
thanks again guys

 

The stage 5 is a soild hub puck style clutch, much cheaper and easier to manufacture then the sprung hub full face stage 3.

The stage 5 is for race use only and unsuitable for street use.

 

thanks man. my g/f's dad just told me the same thing. he said that they are chattery off the line and like to bark tires. mentioned somthing about them being designed for hard like 10k launches. lol i got the stage 3.
thanks

 

You know with the 2pc 3mm kit your going to need to mill the rotors because stock is 2mm. Just stating this just incase you dont know.

 

why did you get 3mm seals? what kind of engine do you have?

 

So you sticking with everything NA then?

C

 

I really hope you ordered a NA flywheel, because the Turbo one wont work. Tandolla was right and Turborotor is wrong. The flywheel MUST match the transmission, PERIOD, no exceptions. The counterweight must match the series of the car.

 

I got my flywheel and clutch setup from Racing Beat. Came with counter weight and everything.

Good quality too. I highly suggest going with them.

 

I just finished my swap on my vert to a TII drivetrain. Works like a charm, solid drivetrain now.